Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class combined 2. Ascent area — Western Tian-Shan Ugam ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route "Aziya" 3600 m via the S buttress counterfort 4. Estimated difficulty category 3B 5. Route characteristics: height difference 300 m average steepness 65° length of sections 3 — 125 m, 4 — 145 m, 5 — 75 m. 6. Pitons driven:

ASCENT DOCUMENT ASCENT DOCUMENT

Class: Rock Climbing

Region: TIAN-SHAN, Ugam Range (7.II) Peak: ALTUS Height according to "KMGV-99": 3200 m BARS-I 3800 m First Ascent Routes and proposed difficulty categories: Via Sofia's Shelf to the eastern ridge: 3A combined Via Sofia's Shelf to the western ridge: 3B combined

RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION ASCENT DOCUMENT ASCENT DOCUMENT

Category: Rock

Region: TIAN-SHAN, Ugam Range (7.II) Peak: ALTUS Height according to "KMGV-99": 3200 m BARS-I 3800 m First ascent routes and proposed complexity categories:

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge, 7.11.
2. Name of the peak: Bars-1 (3800 m), route name: via the left part of the N wall.
3. Difficulty category: approximately 4A, first ascent.
4. Route characteristics: rock.
5. Height difference of the wall section: 520 m, route length: 1150 m, wall section length: 650 m, section lengths: 5th category – 130 m, 4th category – 150 m, average steepness of the route 59°.
6. Pitons used on the route: Rock: 8, cams: 37, nuts: 19, ice screws: 0.
7. Team's climbing hours: 6 h 30 min (pure ascent).
8. Leader: Melnikov V.G. – Candidate Master of Sports.

Ascent Passport

N 582 p. 55 dated January 26, 1988 Complexity category 3A. I. Ascent class — rock climbing 2. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Ugam ridge 3. Summit, its height, and ascent route — "Gnom", 3450 m, via South ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category

Climbing Passport

I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. Climbing area — Tian Shan, Ugam Ridge 3. Peak, its height, climbing route — p. Kergely, 3750 m, northwestern counterfort. 4. Estimated difficulty category — 2B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 450 m, average steepness of the wall section — 55°, total route — 35°, length of sections: 1—..., 2—100 m, 3—345 m, 4—130 m, 5—...

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Western Tian Shan, Ugam ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: "Kergely" — 3887 m, via NW side
4. Estimated difficulty category: 3B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 390 m
   • Average steepness: 65°
   • Section lengths: 2–300 m, 3–75 m, 4–75 m, 5–42 m
6. Pitons hammered in:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class – combined 2. Ascent area – Western Tian-Shan, Ugam Ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. "Sairamskiy" 4238 m, via left couloir of N slope 4. Expected difficulty category: 5A 5. Route characteristics: height difference – 780 m; average steepness – 70°; length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category – 270 m. 6. Pitons hammered:

Rafikov I.Sh. (team leader), Vchinnikov S.I., Li N.B., Mendorf V.R. Route: Sairam – Ayutor, NE ridge, to the right. Length 45 km. Height 4724.6 m, 20 hours. 24-25.09.1984.

Ascent to Sairam Peak

• Group's route
• Sedelnikov's route, 5B cat. diff. www.alpfederation.ru

Crux of the route

North edge of Ayu-Tor peak (left profile)

Aktur Uzunkol — description of the 1B alpinist route from SK Greta

Route description: The trail to Ak pass begins from the first tributary flowing into the Myrdy river below the first bridge from the top on the right bank, and leads left along the trail upwards along steep grassy slopes in the direction of the Pyramida peak. After 1.5 hours, the slope becomes gentler, and the trail goes along small rocky-grassy terraces. 40 minutes later, on one of the terraces to the left of the trail, on a wonderful lawn thickly overgrown with grass, next to a crossing stream, there are good places for tents, no firewood. A couple of rocky-grassy ascents lead to the glacier flowing from under the Pyramida and Ak-bashi peaks. We ascend to the glacier to the right along the trail via small and medium talus and snowfields and enter a small glacial cirque north of the Ak-bashi peak, ending with a ridge of heavily destroyed rocks. A small depression in the ridge is the Ak pass. Orienting our movement towards the saddle of the pass, we cross the glacier and ascend to the pass via snow and then destroyed rocks. From the pass, we ascend to the peak via a snowy (at the end of summer — talus) slope. Descent is via the ascent route. Path chronometry:

• ascent to the tongue of the glacier — 3 hours;
• along the glacier to the pass — 1 hour;