The ascent of Peak Volodarsky (5567 m), Baigashka region, was made by a group working as part of the High-Altitude Pamir Expedition of Leningrad State University in 1968. The goal of the expedition was to traverse p. Trud — p. V. Slutskaya; among the acclimatization exits was an exit to the area of l. Volodarsky. From l. Volodarsky, ascents are possible to:

• p. Uritsky,
• p. Frunze,
• p. "5757",
• p. Volodarsky. Mostly, these routes are undoubtedly routes of the highest category of difficulty, however, on p. Volodarsky, an ascent along the northern ridge is possible, which is simpler. The route is combined — a 300 m rocky edge is of certain technical interest, and the further path along the ridge gives an idea of the nature of snow at high altitudes in this region. The ascent was made by a group consisting of: | Shumilov O. I. (leader) | 1st sports category | | :-------------------: | :-------------: |

Topo­scheme

— ROUTE TO p. VOROZHARSKOGO (35 grade) — ROUTE TO p. BA­NYAN­NY (26 grade)

1. Group Composition

1. Yeremenko G. N. — 1st sports category, Kharkov (leader)
2. Slobodyanik L. I. — 2nd sports category, Kharkov
3. Grigorenko — Prigoda D. I. — Master of Sports, Kharkov

2. Object Characteristics

The Ishpro peak is located in one of the western spurs of the Shakhdarin ridge. The peak and the chosen route are visible when approaching the Andorob village (see Photo 1). It is clearly visible when ascending the slopes above the Garm-Chashma village. The peak is well-known to local residents as its glacial-snow cover supplies the irrigation canal system (aryks) around Garm-Chashma with water. All slopes on the left (orographic) bank of the Garm-Chashma River are crisscrossed by a network of aryks, which are convenient to use as trails when approaching Ishpro peak. Translated, Ishpro means "peak that blocks the wind." We named it "Compass Rose." Photo 1. View of Ishpro peak from Andorob village.

Map-Scheme

4.6.9

Protocol No.380 dated 2.17.1972. Classified 5A. First ascent. South-West Pamir upper reaches of the Garms-Chashma river, peak 5100 m “Kiik-bal-khana”

Report

• on the first ascent of the South-West wall 5B cat. difficulty by the team of Kharkov regional council of the sports society “Avangard” June 14, 1973 Grushko Yu.I. Candidate Master of Sports

1. Class of traverses
2. South-West Pamir, Ishkashimsky Ridge
3. Traverse of p. Kiik-Bal-Khana (5100 m) – p. Bezymanaya (5170 m) with ascent to p. Kiik-Bal-Khana via the western ridge, combined ridge route.
4. Proposed - category 2B difficulty
5. Height difference — from the start of the route to p. Kiik-Bal-Khana — 550 m, from p. Bezymanaya to the end of the descent — 800 m, length of traverse between the peaks — 1100 m, length of sections with category 4 difficulty — 200 m.
6. Pitons hammered: Rock 20 — Chocks 40 —
7. Number of travel hours — 13.
8. Without overnight stays
9. Ascent made by a pair:

Kharkov Regional Sports Committee Collection 1986

First Ascent Category

Report

On the ascent of peak Tri Bashni via the NW wall, category 5B difficulty (first ascent) by the team of Kharkov Regional Sports Committee. Team leader: Tanets A.A., Rybchenko V.D. Team coach: Artemenko G.P. 310003, Kharkov, Dvorets Truda, Kharkov Oblast Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports Society. 310121, Kharkov, ul. Geroyev Truda, 68 A, apt. 34. Tanets A.A. 310023, Kharkov, vyezd Krasnogo Studen-chestva, 8. Artemenko G.P. Heights were determined using a map and visually.

27

Southwestern Pamir. Peak Shpil. Elevation (5527 m) 5568 m

Report on the first ascent via the eastern ridge, category 4A difficulty, made by a group from the Kharkov regional council of the "Avangard" sports society on June 20, 1973, consisting of:

• Slobodyanik L.I. – 2nd sports category – leader
• Spesivtsev A.E. – Master of Sports
• Kovalinskaya L.P. – 2nd sports category
• Eremenko G.N. – 2nd sports category Kharkov, 1973

Contents

Nartoscheme Vezdara

10–3 Pamir

scale 1 cm — 2 km

10

Ascent Passport

10. Category of first ascents.
11. Region: Eastern Pamir, Muzkol Ridge.
12. Peak CHOTAGAY (6133 m) via the S-3 counterfort of the wall, rock route.
13. Proposed category of complexity — 5B, first ascent.
14. Height difference — 1300 m, length — 1680 m. The average steepness of the main part of the route — 62° (5050–6000 m). Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 710 m, ~45–50°.
15. Pitons driven: | Rock | Nuts | Ice |

233. Kulak via the Eastern Ridge (combined route by N. Popov, category III difficulty, fig. 18, 28).

From the "Chegem" tourist base (group of 4–8 people), ascend along the trail on the left bank of the Kulak River, then cross to the right bank via a bridge and approach the koshu along the trail. Continue along the right-bank moraine of the Kulak glacier. After fording the stream from the Chat glacier, approach the point where the Northwest Branch of the Kulak glacier merges with it from the right. Here, descend from the moraine to the left onto the glacier and, having traversed:

• the Northwest Branch of the Kulak glacier,
• the base of the Eastern Ridge of the Bodorku peak, reach a lake located under the left (southern) side of the base of the Eastern Ridge of the Bodorku peak. A bivouac is possible by the lake. From the "Chegem" tourist base, it takes 5–6 hours. From the lake, cross to the left (south) onto the exposed Western Branch of the Kulak glacier