Ingushetia

Report

On the ascent to the summit Gaikomd Glavny (3171 m) via the north-west wall, first ascent, approximately 3A cat. dif. Team of sports club "Gornyak" (Saint-Petersburg) Leader: Trikozov V. M. Member: Matinyan A. A. Member: Senchenko K. A. Team coach: Odintsov A. N. Saint-Petersburg 2017

PASSPORT

1. Class — rock
2. Eastern Caucasus, Skalisty Ridge, Armkhi gorge, ChIASSR
3. Giphyroch Glavnaya peak 3171 m, via the southwestern wall (see appendix 2)
4. Proposed 5B category of complexity, first ascent
5. Height difference: ≈ 500 m ≈ 510 m Length: 555 m – 565 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity: 390 m – 400 m Average steepness of main sections: 50–60° (485 m) Of which 6 category of complexity — 85 m (85°)

Alpinism Federation of the Republic of Buryatia

Report on the ascent of FARB team to the summit of Gaikomd, first ascent via the left part of the southeast wall

Russian Championship. Technical Class. February 2017 Ulan-Ude 2017

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area: Caucasus, from Krestovyi pass to Shaviklde peak
2. Peak: Gaikomd, 3192 m, first ascent via the left part of the SE wall
3. Estimated category of difficulty: 5B, first ascent.
4. Route characteristics: rock.

Report

Teams from Sverdlovsk Oblast

First ascent via the center of the E wall to Peak Gaikomd, 3171 m 7–11.02.2017

Ascent Passport

1. Category — technical.
2. Caucasus, from the Pereval Krepostovyi to the Shaviklde peak (number in the classification table 2.9).
3. Peak Gaikomd 3171 m via the center of the E wall.
4. Proposed 5B cat. diff., first ascent.
5. Route nature — rock.

Ministry of Sports of Krasnoyarsk Krai

Krasnoyarsk Regional Alpine Federation

Russian Mountaineering Championship

2018

Snow and Ice Class

Report

On the first ascent by the Krasnoyarsk Krai team – 1 to the summit of Gaikomd (Kyazi) Main, 3171 m, via the central left part of the SE wall, named "Nebo yanvarya" (January Sky). The first ascent is approximately category 6A difficulty. Krasnoyarsk 2018

Team Leader:

Zhigalov Alexander Vladimirovich

Russian Championship in Alpinism

2017

Technical Class

Report

On the first ascent of the team from Krasnoyarsk Krai–1 to the summit of Gaikomd, 3171 m, via the SE wall. First ascent, approximately 6A category. Team Leader: Zhigalov Alexander Vladimirovich Team Members:

• Loginov Igor Alexandrovich

1. The type of ascent is combined.
2. The region of ascent is Eastern Caucasus, Shavano ridge, Shandon river gorge, ChIASSR.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — peak 60 years of ChIASSR (4071 m) via the right couloir of the NE wall, first ascent.
4. Assumed difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1250 m. b) average steepness — 40°. c) extent of sections: * 1st diff. cat. — 760 m. * 2nd diff. cat. — 320 m.

1. Climbing category - rock
2. Climbing area - Eastern Caucasus, Khde (Kistinki) gorge
3. Peak - Shino, height 3948 m, route - Shino via the center of the North face
4. Proposed category of complexity - 4B
5. Route characteristics: height difference of the wall - 900 m; average steepness 55°; length in meters of sections:
   • 2A - 400 (pre-summit ridge)
   • 2B - 140
   • 3A - 165
   • 3B - 260
   • 4A - 195

1. Climbing category — technically challenging.
2. Area 2.9 (from the Perevalny Krepost to the village of Pan); Chauhi mountain range.
3. Traverse of peaks Leonidze (3773 m) — Japaridze (3733 m) with ascent via the South-West edge of peak Leonidze.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 350 m; average steepness of the edge on ascent — 60°; length of sections with 5th cat. diff. totals — 60 m.
6. Only rock pitons were used during the ascent along the edge. A total of 34 pitons were hammered in. 3 of them were used to create artificial footholds (ladders).
7. To complete the route from the base camp near three stones and back, 13.5 hours were spent in good weather conditions. Of these:

• approach to the route — 2.5 hours;
• ascent along the D-3 edge of peak Leonidze — 6 hours;

Report

on the ascent of the Leningrad Sports Committee team to Peak Shchurovsky via the Western wall "Surka" and the edge of the bastion of the Northern wall, category 5B (variant) Team captain — S.G. Kalmykov Team coach — A.I. Moshnikov Central Caucasus January – February 1983

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of Peak Shchurovsky

Peak Shchurovsky is located in the Main Caucasian Range, which forms a complex zigzag in this area. The south-eastern ridge descends to the Western peak of Chatyn-Tau, and the north-eastern ridge descends to the Lожный Chatyn pass. To the south of the peak, reaching an altitude of 4100 m, is the famous Ushba plateau, descending along the western slopes of the peak with a grandiose Ushba icefall. The northern wall of the peak faces the Shkheldinsky glacier. On its kilometer-long slope, cut by snow and ice couloirs, the upper bastion stands out with a dark steep face, the right edge of which rests on the north-western counterfort, having a steep western wall. The rocks of the bastion and the western wall "Surka" are characterized by their monolithic nature and smoothed relief, reminiscent of the relief: