Ingushetia
Report
On the ascent to the summit Gaikomd Glavny (3171 m) via the north-west wall, first ascent, approximately 3A cat. dif. Team of sports club "Gornyak" (Saint-Petersburg)
Leader: Trikozov V. M. Member: Matinyan A. A. Member: Senchenko K. A.
Team coach: Odintsov A. N.
Saint-Petersburg 2017
Climbing passport
- Type of ascent: technical
- Area of ascent: 2.9 from Krestovyy pass to Shaviklde peak
- Name of peak: Gaikomd Glavnaya, route via north-west wall
- Estimated category of difficulty: 3A, combined, first ascent
- Height difference of the route: 480 m Route length: 1270 m Average steepness: main part of route: 50–60°, total route: 40°
- Number of protection points on the route: Total / including fixed protection 61/8 Anchors and pitons 35 Nuts and cams 26 Bolt / removable bolt pitons 0/0
- Team's climbing hours: 29.5 h
- Leader: Trikozov Viktor Mikhaylovich, 2nd sports category Member: Matinyan Artur Armenovich, 1st sports category Member: Senchenko Kseniya Andreevna, 2nd sports category
- Descent from the summit: via 1B, 3rd ridge
- Coach: Odintsov Aleksandr Nikolaevich
- Approach to the route: January 26, 2017 at 5:00 Summit: January 26, 2017 at 23:55 Return to base camp: August 27, 2017 at 10:30
Panoramic photo
Route thread
Brief description of the route from Krestovyy pass to Gaikomd Glavnaya summit (3171 m)
R0–R1 — section starts with 10 m wall of easy climbing, then 590 m along simple rocks in a couloir to an inclined plateau, on it turn right to a saddle. On the saddle is the start of the main route.
R1–R2 — 60 m rock wall via free climbing, belay station on a rock. R2–R3 — 5 m up the rock to an internal corner, then traverse right 45 m. R3–R4 — descend to an inclined slab 5 m, along the slab traverse right 55 m. R4–R5 — continue traversing right another 35 m to the end of the inclined slab. R5–R6 — 10 m up complex climbing or with artificial aids, then 25 m traverse right, exit to a couloir. R6–R7 — 60 m up the couloir, overcome via free climbing, belay station on a ledge. R7–R8 — 60 m via free climbing along an internal corner, belay station on a ledge. R8–R9 — 50 m traverse right. R9–R10 — 10 m sheer wall, the first climber ascends via free climbing on the right along the rock, then 50 m via free climbing.
R10–R11 — 200 m up broken rocks without being tied, exit to the summit. For organizing belays, the following work well:
- anchors
- small cams
- medium cams
Route scheme in UIAA symbols
| Section | Length | Steepness | Terrain type | Difficulty cat. | Number of pitons |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| R10–R11 | 200 | 30 | I | ||
| R9–R10 | 60 | 60 | III | 3 | |
| R8–R9 | 50 | 50 | IV | 3 | |
| R7–R8 | 60 | 70 | IV | 10 | |
| R6–R7 | 35 | 45 | II+ | 15 | |
| R5–R6 | 35 | 80 | V | 10 | |
| R4–R5 | 35 | 45 | III+ | 3 | |
| R3–R4 | 60 | 45 | III+ | 5 | |
| R2–R3 | 50 | 45 | III | 7 | |
| R1–R2 | 60 | 50 | III+ | 30 | |
| R0–R1 | 600 | 30 | II | 10 |
Photo 1. Continuation of R0–R1 section
Photo 2. Saddle at R1
Photo 3. Work on R1–R2 section
Photo 4. Start of internal corner on R2–R3 section
Photo 5. Work on R4–R5 section
Photo 6. Internal corner on R6–R7 section
