Report

Teams from Sverdlovsk Oblast

First ascent via the center of the E wall to Peak Gaikomd, 3171 m

7–11.02.2017

Ascent Passport

1. Category — technical.
2. Caucasus, from the Pereval Krepostovyi to the Shaviklde peak (number in the classification table 2.9).
3. Peak Gaikomd 3171 m via the center of the E wall.
4. Proposed 5B cat. diff., first ascent.
5. Route nature — rock.
6. Route characteristics:
   • Route elevation gain — 685 m
   • Route length — 900 m
   • Wall section length — 700 m
   • Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 600 m
   • Average route steepness — 70°
   • Average wall section steepness — 80°
7. Pitons used:
   • Rock pitons — incl. ITO — 160/130
   • Chocks — incl. ITO — 50/20
   • Friends — incl. ITO — 120/98
   • Removable bolt hangers — incl. ITO — 25/3
   • Total — incl. ITO — 355/252
   • Pitons left on the route — 3
8. Team's climbing hours — 45 h (to the summit).
9. Approach to the route — February 7, 2017 at 9:00. Summit reached — February 11, 2017 at 14:00. Return to Base Camp — February 11, 2017 at 21:00.
10. Leader: Sychikov Anatoliy Gennadievich — MS Participants: Cheremnykh Artem Vladimirovich — MS Luzin Igor Viktorovich — 1st sports category Coach: Sychikov Anatoliy Gennadievich — MS

General view.

Main wall section of the route.

Route description by sections

R0–R1. Approach to the route is made via a narrow couloir between the peaks Gaikomd (Gl.) and Gaikomd (V). Climb up the couloir for about 300 m, slightly above the overhanging internal corner with a cornish at the end.

R1–R2. The first 10 m are 4th category climbing. Then the wall steepens and turns into a slight overhang, but with good relief for ITO and belaying. After that, it eases to 70°, with good relief for belaying. Station on friends, one removable bolt hanger was hammered (it's not there anymore, but an 8 mm hole remains).

R2–R3. Slightly positive internal corner, slightly deviating to the left. Friends and anchors are used for belaying (anchors fit well into the shell-shaped rocks with moss). Station on two retrievers.

R3–R4. The wall eases further. Climb slightly to the right, to a fairly large grassy ledge. On the ledge, there's a station (sitting bivouac possible).

R4–R5. From the ledge, climb up 5th category rocks, slightly to the left. Friends and anchors work well. Station on the next large ledge (exactly 60 m between stations). The ledge has a very good spot for a lying bivouac. Then, traverse left along the ledge to the base of a large, monolithic internal corner.

R5–R6. Climb up the system of internal corners. Most of it is done by free climbing. Good, reliable relief. Belaying on medium friends and anchors.

R6–R7. Approach the base of the cornish via internal corners. The cornish is passed using ITO (large friends), from left to right along a large crack. Behind the cornish, the crack turns into a vertical internal corner, climb up it. After 15 m, the wall eases, and one can switch to free climbing.

R7–R8. Climb up positive rocks, deviating slightly to the right, to the base of the next large internal corner. Midway through the section, there's a small wall, ITO.

R8–R9. Climb up internal corners to the cornish. The lower part is slippery, closer to the cornish — ITO via a crack on friends. Station on friends. A втулка под спит ( втулка under spit) was left.

R9–R10. The cornish is passed very easily on friends.

R10–R11. Then follows a vertical internal corner with a good crack for friends, ITO.

R11–R12. Gentle, partially grassy slope. Climb to the right, under a small cornish. Station on a ledge under the cornish (lying bivouac possible).

R12–R13. The cornish is passed via a crack on ITO (about 10 m). Then 5th category rocks. Climb to the base of the couloir.

R13–R14. Climb up the couloir to the beginning of internal corners leading to the right.

R14–R15. Climb up internal corners to the right, exit to a ridge.

R15–R16. From the ridge, climb left, up 3rd category rocks.

Equipment list

1. Dynamic rope 10 mm, 60 m — 1 pc.
2. Static rope 10 mm, 60 m — 2 pcs.
3. Quickdraws with carabiners 40 cm — 17 pcs.
4. Carabiners — 10 pcs.
5. Station loops — 5 pcs.
6. Friends Black Diamond C3 № 1, C4 № 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.75, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3 — 10 pcs.
7. Friends Fixe Aliens (small) — 5 pcs.
8. Chocks (stoppers) — set.
9. Extraction tool — 2 pcs.
10. Rock hammers — 3 pcs.
11. Anchor pitons — 9 pcs.
12. Bolt kit — set.
13. Skyhooks with holes — 2 pcs.
14. Relief skyhooks — 2 pcs.
15. Ice screws — 1 pc.
16. Crampons — 1 pair
17. Etriers — 2 pairs
18. Ladder for etriers — 1 set.
19. Harness + 2 self-belaying devices — 3 sets.
20. Helmets — 3 pcs.
21. Belay device " Gri-Gri" — 1 pc.
22. Belay device ATC — 2 pcs.
23. Jumar — 4 pcs.
24. Jumar pedal — 4 pcs.
25. Headlamps — 3 pcs.
26. Thermoses with tea — 2 pcs.
27. First aid kit — set.
28. Radio station — 1 pc.
29. Clothing — 3 sets.
30. Camera — 2 pcs.
31. Platform — 1 pc.
32. Sleeping bags — 3 pcs.

UIAA scheme

Peak Gaikomd, 3171 m. Via the right part of the SE wall, 5B cat. diff.

Photos by sections:

End of section R4–R5

Section R5–R6

Start of section R6–R7

Cornish on section R7

Internal corner after the cornish on section R7

Section R7–R8

Start of section R8–R9

Photos from the summit

On the summit, we retrieved Peter's note. Then followed a descent from the summit via the 1B cat. diff. route.