DESCRIPTION

of the ascent route to Peak KAP From the Ali-Bek base camp along the trail through the Ali-Bek river up to the Belalakai canyon via the "Monkey trail" to the overnight stay. 1.5 hours. From the overnight stay through a snow bridge in the canyon or via a wedged stone to the trail on the right-bank moraine of the Belalakai glacier and along it to the tongue of the glacier. Crossing the tongue of the glacier in its lower part, approach under a wide green couloir and up it to the saddle on the north-eastern ridge of Peak KAP. 1.5 hours from the overnight stay. ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass
3. Summit

пр. № 431 от 1/3-77, п.4. ЗА, пп.

Report on the Ascent of Main Kara-Kaya Peak via the First Ascent Route on the Eastern Ridge, approximately Category 3B difficulty, August 8, 1975

Main Kara-Kaya Peak is located in the Karakai spur of the Main Caucasian Range. The peak can be accessed via four ridges:

• Eastern
• South-Eastern
• Northern
• South-Western Favorable weather conditions, convenient access routes, and an abundance of classified and unclassified routes of various difficulty levels make this peak highly interesting for mountaineers. The following routes have been classified on Main Kara-Kaya Peak:
• via the South-Eastern ridge — Category 2B

Report on the Ascent in the Area

of the Main Caucasus Range and its spurs from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass to the summit of Glavnaya Karakaya via NW wall (left part) (3896 m) by the team of instructors from DOMBAY alpine camp:

• SAVCHUK V.A. — CMS
• KOROTKOV V.A. — MS
• KARPOV Yu.G. — CMS
• PERKOVSKY L.I. — CMS
• MOCHNIKOV E.I. — CMS
• AZARYEV I.A. — 1st sports category Team coaches: MAGOMEDOV Kh.K.; KUROCHKINA Z.V. DOMBAY — 1974

104

Central Council of the "Trud" Voluntary Sports Society

"Krasnaya Zvezda" Alpine Camp

Report

on the first ascent of the Northwest wall of Kara-Kaya Main peak (approximately category 6B) Team members:

• USSR Master of Sports Andreev R.N. - team leader
• Assorov A.V. - participant
• Shkrabkin A.S. - participant

Ascent Record

1. Ascent level — technically challenging
2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus
3. Peak, its height, ascent route —
   • Zapadnaya Klukhor-Kaya, 3500 m, via the northwest ridge
4. Category of difficulty — 3B
5. Route characteristics — height difference 800 m, average slope 40–45 degrees
6. Total climbing hours — 16–18
7. Overnight stay — on Hokkel Glacier
8. Group composition:

TO THE MAIN JUDICIAL COMMISSION OF THE ALPINISM FEDERATION OF THE USSR Report on the ascent to the summit of Dalar via the northeastern wall with an exit to the summit tower via the northern edge, as entered in the 1969 USSR Alpine Championship by the team from the Leningrad Mountain Sports Committee.

Team captain and ascent leader — B. KORABLIN

Leningrad, 1969 Northeastern wall of Dalar peak. Due to various reasons, STEPANOV V.V. and CHERNOSLIVIN Yu.I. were unable to travel to the Caucasus this year, and therefore they did not join the assault group. KORSHUNOV D.M. could not be replaced at the time the team started the ascent (he was working as an instructor), and VELIKANOV V.P. was included in the main team.

![img-0.jpeg]({"0": "width": 753, "height": 621, "format": "Jpeg", "uri": "https://summitx.info/media/1/XjFEEecR0szAcq3IJwcyHTu7LfdyF9j7/img-0.jpeg", "id": 64745172}) REPORT ![img-1.jpeg]({"0": "width": 1376, "height": 131, "format": "Jpeg", "uri": "https://summitx.info/media/1/0CM2EsSyu3RvBTLu8U5afLDlPPVJ90Dm/img-1.jpeg", "id": 64745173}) ON TRAVERSE OF PEAKS DALAR — DVOINYASHKA — ZAMOK

• ascent to Dalar via western wall
• to Dvoinyashka along the "edge"
• first ascent July — August 1968

Table of Contents

Ascent Form

1. Ascent category: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Nakhara spur of the Main Caucasian Range
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks, their heights, route complexity (etc., approximately): South wall of Dvuzubka peak, height 3400 m, 5B category of difficulty
4. Ascent characteristics: Route length 820 m, height difference 550–600 m, average steepness 75°, complex sections length 670 m
5. Pitons driven: rock 114, chocks — 47. Ice and bolt pitons.
6. Number of climbing hours 34 h
7. Number of climbing days 3
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: two sitting bivouacs on comfortable ledges

Elbrus divides the surrounding mountains into two very different areas. The Baksan area with its peaks around 4000 m and above is much harsher in terms of climbing conditions compared to the Western Caucasus regions. This is evidenced by:

• large altitude differences,
• heavily broken glaciers,
• mandatory snow at high altitudes. In contrast, the area west of Elbrus — Uzun-kol — is mostly purely rocky. All peaks in this area (except Gvandra) are below 4000 m. Climbing usually doesn't involve overcoming significant glaciers, and all steep slopes are free of snow and ice. The Zamok peak is located in the Main Caucasus Range. Together with Dalar and Dvoinyashka, it forms the base of a horseshoe that encompasses the upper reaches of the Kichkinekol River, which, merging with Mordy, forms Uzun-kol. In terms of height, Zamok (3930 m) is second only to:
• Gvandra
• Dalar The two peaks of Zamok — Eastern and Western — are situated on a ridge, the northwestern part of which leads to Dvoinyashka, while the southeastern part stretches in an arc, curving around the Zamok glacier from the south. This southeastern part of the ridge had not been traversed before the ascent described below. To the northeast from the Western peak of Zamok, a ridge leads, steeply descending to the Burvestnik pass, and then slowly rising to the Filter peak. To the south-southwest from the same Western peak, the South Counterforce extends. Significantly west of both Zamok peaks and all its gendarmes, the North Counterforce leads to the Bolshoy Kichkinekol glacier. The main difficulty in climbing in the Uzun-kol area lies in overcoming complex rock walls of heavily broken rock ridges; however, climbs usually don't take much time. Examples of relatively short but extremely complex routes include the well-known wall routes:

«Kirpich»

(Classified as 5B+1 cat. Protocol №187 from 27.10.1961)

Via South Face

Combined team of Central Council of the Voluntary Sports Society “Trud”

Coach Honored Master of Sports of the USSR — G.P. Kolenov, Team Leader Honored Master of Sports of the USSR — Yu.I. Chernosliven Tourist Club, reading room 2764 Moscow, 1960