2.2.6362

The summit of Uzlovaya Dzhuguturlyuchat is located in the Main Caucasian Range (MCR). This section of the MCR starts from the Amanauz massif, after which the ridge lowers to the rarely visited "Nauka" pass and continues further - to the complex terrain of the multi-summit massif, connecting with the South summit of Dzhuguturlyuchat. From it, the ridge turns northeast to the Main (3921 m) and Uzlovaya (3800 m) summits of Dzhuguturlyuchat, from which a short spur branches off to peak Mitnikov (3700 m) and further to the East summit of Dzhuguturlyuchat (3880 m). From the latter, the spur branches out:

• to the north - to peak Ine (3409 m)
• to the west - to the West summit of Dzhuguturlyuchat (3700 m). The massifs of Dzhuguturlyuchat and Amanauz form a huge cirque, in which three glaciers are located. From the summit of Uzlovaya Dzhuguturlyuchat, the ridge has an eastern direction and connects to the rocky summit of Ptysh (3520 m). This section of the ridge is known as Akbeksky. The route to the summit of Uzlovaya Dzhuguturlyuchat runs along the eastern edge, which stretches parallel to the 3B category route to peak Mitnikov. The route is rocky in nature, except for the approach to the edge, which passes through the East Dzhuguturlyuchat glacier. From the "Dombay" tourist center to the Ptysh camps, this path is well described in Kropf's book (part 3). The ascent from the Ptysh camps to the East Dzhuguturlyuchat glacier plateau is possible through three broad couloirs:
• the 1st descends under the slopes of the Akbek peaks;

Fig. 46

5. Ascent to the summit of Vostochny Dombay-Ulgen via the north-eastern wall — category 5B difficulty (Fig. 46)

From Dombayskaya Polyana, follow the trail via Chuchkhur Pass, descend into Bu-Ulgen gorge, and then to the green glade under the north-eastern wall of Vostochny Dombay-Ulgen — bivouac.

• From Dombayskaya Polyana, 7-8 hours. Alternative option. By car via Gonachkhir to Bu-Ulgen glade, and then follow the trail to the green glade under the north-eastern wall of Vostochny Dombay-Ulgen — bivouac. From Dombayskaya Polyana, 3-4 hours. From the bivouac, initially follow the moraine, then:
• right — up the scree
• further up the slope of the avalanche cone (steepness 40-45°) — exit to the wall rocks
• traverse through the bergschrund

Dombay (W), center of the N wall — Zhiltsov A.G. Caucasus 2.2 Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Caucasus
3. Dombay (W), along the center of the N wall (Gubanova route), with a traverse to Dombay (Gl)
4. Complexity category – 6B
5. Height difference: 1500 m, length: 1990 m. Length of sections with 6A–6B complexity category – 475 m. Average steepness of the route – 65° Average steepness of sections with 6A–6B complexity category – 85°

ASCENT OF VOSTOCHNY DOMBAY-ULGEN (3950 m) VIA THE NORTH-EAST FACE (S. SENY ROUTE)

Climbing Report LVOV, 1971

Assault Team Composition

Surname, Name, Patronymic	Year of Birth	Nationality	Party Membership	Sport Rank	Climbing Experience	Instructor Rank	Primary Profession	Place of Residence
1. Shalaev Gennadiy Ivanovich	1931	Russian	CPSU member	MS	Since 1952	Instructor	Engineer	Lvov-14, Doroga Krivchitskaya, 1, apt. 17
2. Bolizhevsky Valeriy Konstantinovich	1940	Russian	Non-party	MS	Since 1956	Instructor	Engineer	Drogobych, Lvov region, Stryiskaya, 5, apt. 39

Central Council of the Student Voluntary Sports Society "Burevestnik"

Report

on the ascent to the summit of East Dombay-Ulgen via the center of the north wall Team of the "Alibek" alpine camp Team captain — Gubanov Yu.D. Team coach — Beletsky E.A. 71

Information about team members

№	Last name, first name, patronymic	Year of birth	Profession	Alpine qualification	Alpine experience	Home address

Ascent Passport

I. Rock class. 2. Western Caucasus. 3. Mt. Dombay Eastern (3950) via the center of the North Face (Gubanov's route). 4. 6B category of complexity. 5. Height difference 1460 m, route length 1710 m, length of sections with 5-6 category of complexity 892 m, average steepness of the route — 64°, average steepness and height differences of sections: Lower wall 60° (2490-2950), central wall 78° (2950-3390), edge 50° (3390-3670), summit tower 70° (3670-3950). 6. Pitons hammered: rock screw-in, ice screws

130	0	158	0
I	0	0	0

PASSPORT

1. Class — rock
2. Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass.
3. Peak Dombay Eastern, 3950 m, via the Centre of the North wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6.
5. Height difference: 1350 m, length 1905 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 850 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 63° (2600–3923 m), of which 5–6 cat. diff. (2600–3400 m) — 68°.
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolts | Nuts | Ice screws | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :------: | | 169 | 4 | 109 | 1 |

№ 582 p.34 January 26, 1988 72

ROUTE DESCRIPTION

69. to Mt. Dombay/Gl./ via North face 5A cat. diff. V. Budanov, 38 Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass

DESCRIPTION

Ascent to Mt. Dombay-Ulgen Main via North face 5A cat. diff. From Dombay plain through Chuchkhur pass, then traverse right — exit under East ridge of Mt. Maly Dombay-Ulgen — bivouac. From Dombay plain — 5–6 hours. From bivouac, first along the eastern ridge 190–120 m, then along the northeastern slope of Maly Dombay-Ulgen and through a bergschrund, exit under the northeastern wall of Mt. Glavny Dombay-Ulgen. Further ascent up difficult rocks 60 m (rocks are smooth, with few cracks), then exit right onto a steep snowpatch (Rockfall hazard!!!). The snowpatch is traversed right-up, and then up rocks of medium difficulty in the direction of a spalling. Near the spalling — a flat area, possible bivouac.

USSR Climbing Championship 1973. Technical Climbing Category

Ascent of Main Domбай-Ulgen peak via the South Face (First Ascent)

The route was climbed by the team from the "Dombay" mountaineering camp under the "Burevestnik" sports society. Coach: Master of Sports of the USSR, R.P. Stroganov. Western Caucasus — 1973 — Fig. 2. South Face of Main Domбай-Ulgen peak Since the assault team was within sight of the observation group for the first three days, the latter was able to provide clear guidance to the assault team.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category — wall ascent
2. Ascent region — Western Caucasus
3. Ascent to v. Dombay Glavny via the southern wall (4046 m) category 6B complexity. Korotkov's route.
4. Wall section height difference — 800 m total route length — 1660 m section lengths:
   • category 6 — 220 m
   • category 5 — 720 m
5. Average steepness of the wall section — 70–80°