Activity Feed
Route Description: З кф. ЮЗ гребня
Description of the 2A category difficulty route to the Trapezia peak (3697 m) in the Caucasus, Adylsu gorge, via the southern slope and western ridge.
Starikov Gennadiy, Moscow (author's photo) Trapezia 2A. Ascent passport.
- Region — Caucasus, Adylsu gorge. (tab. – 2008, p. 42, item 171) Peak name — Trapezia (3697), S slope and W ridge.
- 2A cat. of difficulty (first ascent)
- Route type — rock.
- Route elevation gain from the glacier — 600 m
Route length — 1200 m
- view from the Adylsu gorge
- view from the glacier
Route Description: траверс
Description of the ascent to Peak Tyrnyauz komsomoltsyev via the North ridge (category 1B), including the journey from Tyrnyauz and details of the climb.
- Peak Tyrnyauz komsomoltsy via the North Ridge (Category 1B, L. Zanilov, D. Kuzminsky, August 30, 1962, Fig. 38). The path from Tyrnyauz to the initial bivouac under the terminal moraine in the upper reaches of the Sakashil River is described in routes 209 and 210. From the bivouac, ascend the terraces and slopes on the left bank of the Sakashil River, gradually turning left and traversing the slope up to the left to reach the clearly visible saddle on the North Ridge of Peak Tyrnyauz komsomoltsy. From the bivouac, 1-1.5 hours. From the saddle, turn right and, bypassing a small gendarme on the left, reach the ridge. From here, ascend the wide, gentle ridge, then a rocky ascent to an inclined 15-meter slab with a crack in the upper part. After passing the slab, move up 4-5 meters on simple but steep rocks to the gentle part of the ridge. On the gentle ridge, reach the second 20-meter inclined slab, which is climbed directly. Further, on a rocky ascent, bypassing a protruding sheer angle on the left, on an inner corner and on a 30-meter crack, ascend to the gentle pre-summit ridge. On simple rocks of the ridge and a 4-5-meter ascent, climb to Peak Tyrnyauz komsomoltsy. From the initial bivouac, 4.5-5 hours. Descent is made via the ascent route. Duration of the route is 2 days.
Route Description: левому кф. 3 стены
Description of the route category 5B to the summit of Ullu-Kara via the central counterfort of the 3rd wall, climbed by the team of Ukrсовет SDS "Burevestnik" in 1984.
Passport
I. Rock class 2. Central Caucasus 3. Mt. Ullukara via the central pillar of the 3rd section of the wall 4. Proposed category: 5B, first ascent 5. Height difference: 672 m, route length: 1190 m Length of sections with category 5-6 difficulty — 400 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 49°. 6. Pitons driven: * rock pitons — 76
Route Description: СВ гребню
Ascent of Malaya Ushba via the Northeast Ridge, grade 3B, first ascent by Nikolay Andreev's group in 1978.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
First Ascent Category — TECHNICAL CENTRAL CAUCASUS MAIN CAUCASUS RANGE USHBA PLATEAU USHBA MALAYA 4309 m VIA NORTH-EAST RIDGE Proposed difficulty category: 3B Height difference — 200 m (from the plateau) Length of 5A category difficulty sections — 5 m
Route Description: ЮЗ стене
First ascent to the summit of Ushba Mala via the South-West Face (cat. 5B) in 1961 by the team of the Sports Committee of the Ukrainian SSR led by Grigorenko-Prigoda Yu.I.
REPORT
on the first ascent to the summit of Ushba Malaia via the Southwest wall, Caucasus, category 5B, carried out by the team of the Sports Committee of the Ukrainian SSR led by Grigorenko-Prigoda Yu.I.
1981
Profile of M. Ushba
TABLE of main characteristics of the route to v. Ushba M. via the Southwest wall
| Date | Designation | Average steepness | Length (m) | Terrain characteristics | Category | Condition, weather conditions | Rock stoppers | Ice screws | Bolts |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| July 20, 8:00 | R0–R1 | 35° | 450 | ridge, inner corner | 3 | icy, clear | 4 | — | — |
| R1–R2 | 60° | 50 | — | 5 | clear | 24 | — | — |
Route Description: СЗ стене
Ascent certificate for Ushba N. (4694 m) via the North-West face, category 6A complexity, route description and its passage in February 1997.
Ascent Passport
- Class — winter
- Climbing area — Central Caucasus
- Peak — Ushba N. 4694 m, via the Northwest wall
- Category of difficulty — 6A
- Height difference — 1017 m, length — 1700 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 1020 m, length of sections with 6th category of difficulty — 70 m, average steepness of the wall section of the route — 47°
- Pitons driven: rock, chocks, ice screws, bolt pitons | 5 | 3 | 83 | 0 | | :-: | :-: | :--: | :-: | | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 |
Route Description: левой части СВ стены
Description of the passage of a 5B category difficulty route through the left part of the North-East face of Severnaia Ushba (4694 m) in the Central Caucasus in 1988.
I.
Class – technical
2. Central Caucasus
3. Peak — Ushba Northern via left part of NE wall, 4694 m, route by Grishchenko V.
I.
4. 5B cat. diff. 2nd ascent of route I-98-I year
5. Height difference: 1495 m, length — 2050 m
length of sections with 5-6 cat. diff. — 1000 m, average steepness of the main part
of the route — 75° (3995-4035, 40-I-5–4-I-75, 42-I-O–44-I-O), including 440 m of 6 cat. diff.
6. Pitons hammered:
Route Description: 3 стене
Description of the ascent route to the Ushba summit via the West wall, category 5B difficulty, with a detailed analysis of the tactics and technical actions of the team.
Passport
I. Climbing Category 2. Central Caucasus 3. Peak YUZHNAYA USHBA via the West Face, Slesov's route 4. Category 5B, second ascent 5. Elevation gain: 1770 m, route length – 2585 m Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty – 920 m, average steepness of main sections – 65° 6. Pitons driven: rock, bolt, nut, ice 140, 0, 97, 20
Route Description: левой части ЮЗ стены
Report on the ascent of Ushba South via the Myshlyaev route, category 6A, with a detailed description of the route and technical details.
Moscow Alpine Championship 2016 High-altitude Technical Class
Report
On the ascent to Ushba South (4710 m) via the left part of the southwest wall (Myslyaev's Route) 6A category of complexity The teams from the Mountain Club "Alpindustria" together with the Alpine Federation of Samara Region on August 19–22, 2016 Moscow 2016
Ascent Passport
Route Description: правой части ЮЗ стены
Ascent to the summit of Ushba (4710 m) via the right part of the NW wall along the Kustovsky Route, 6B category of difficulty, made by a team of 5 people in August 1993.
ASCENT DOCUMENT.
- Ascent category — technical.
- Ascent region — Central Caucasus.
- Object of ascent — Ushba South peak (4710 m) via the right part of the SW wall (Kustovsky route) 6B category of complexity.
- Height difference of the wall section — 580 m. Total height difference — 1460 m.
- Total route length — 1897.5 m, including sections of 5–6 category of complexity — 835.5 m.
- Average steepness of the route — 68°, including the wall section — 80°.
- Pitons hammered: | rock | ice | bolt | chocks |