Kirpich Peak — 3800 m

Ascent route from the west via the snowy "necktie" 3A cat. diff. From the "Uzunkol" camp, follow the right bank of the Mordy River to the beginning of the Mordy glacier moraine - from here, follow the trail along the grassy slopes to a large green terrace. The bivouac site - "Mordy overnight stay" - is 3-3.5 hours from the camp. From the overnight stay, head right-up along the trail to the Mordy glacier plateau. Cross the plateau and approach the snowy slopes of the "necktie". It takes 45-50 minutes from the bivouac. From here, ascend the snowy slope to the 1st rocky island (in rope teams!). Bypass the island from either side, then ascend to the next black rocky island. Bypass it on the right via a snowy bridge over the bergschrund (Belay!). Ascend the snowy slope to a long rocky island. Climb the rocks to its upper part and again transition to a steep snow slope (45° Belay!). Follow the snow slope to a rocky wall located above - to the right of a small spur of a rocky ridge. Crossing the snowy slope to the wall takes 2.5-3 hours. Along the rocky wall (60°) traverse left to a small ledge - 50-55 m (Belay! Pitons!). From here, 40 m right-up (pitons!) and 40 m left slightly up to the base of a rocky chute. Follow the chute (Piton! 30 m) to its exit and then along easy rocks to the end of the wall - 3 ropes. Above the wall is a platform - here is a control point. From the platform, follow simple rocks and small snowfields to reach the snowy ridge. It takes 3-3.5 hours from the start of the rocky wall to reach the ridge. Follow the snowy ridge to the summit - 40-50 minutes. The descent from the summit via route 1B to the Dalar pass and return to "Mordy overnight stay" takes 3-4 hours. Departure time from the bivouac should be no later than 4:00 am.

Passport

I. Class of rock climbing ascents. 2. Western Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge, Gvandra region. 3. Pik Kirpich, via the "diamond" on the western wall, Manoilov's route, category 5B difficulty. 4. Sixth ascent. 5. Elevation gain: 670 m; route length 1370 m; sections: R6 — 250 m, R5 — 170 m, R4 — 400 m. Elevation gain of the "diamond" wall — 240 m, section lengths:

• R6 — 250 m,
• R5 — 90 m,
• R4 — 20 m.

St. Petersburg Alpine Climbing Championship, Technical Class

2018

Description of the Ascent to Mt. B. Nakhar (3784 m) via the Right Part of the SE Wall (First Ascent)

Proposed category of difficulty: 5A

The route was completed by a team from St. Petersburg

Team captain: Viskov Igor Vladimirovich. Team coach: Timoshenko Tatiana Ivanovna.

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information

PASSPORT

Ascent to the summit of Bolshaya Nakhara, completed as part of the USSR Alpine Climbing Championship 1974. Climbing category — Technically challenging Region — Nakhara Valley Route — v. Bolshaya Nakhara via the northwest wall

Characteristics of the ascent:

Height difference — 1000 m Average slope — 80° Length of complex sections — 745 m Total length — 1335 m

PYRAMID PEAK – 3760 m Ascent via the Eastern ridge – cat. 4B (Description of the ascent route to the summit) From the "Uzunkol" camp, follow the right bank of the Mordy River to the 4th stream at a large stone blockage in the Mordy gorge. From here, head left up the right grassy slope (trail) to the destroyed "sheep's foreheads". Continue along the green terraces under the long moraine, which goes up into the Pyramid glacier cirque. Follow the moraine to reach the glacier. On the talus islands, there's a bivouac site. From the camp, it takes 4–4.5 hours. From the overnight stay, follow the snowfield, crossing several avalanche cones (!), to the start of R1 on the eastern ridge shelf of Pyramid. (Rappel! Belay!) The slope is up to 45° in the upper part. Traverse along the first shelf, on the edge of snow and rocks, to R1 of a short wet black couloir. Climb up the couloir (Belay! Pitons!) to inclined ledges and along them (Belay! Pitons!) to R2, a large shelf – under the R3 shelf overhang. Follow the snowfield on the shelf to a 20-meter rock wall (Belay! Pitons!). Go left along the boundary of snow and rocks under the wall to an internal corner 3–4 m. Wall: exit into the corner and climb up (20 m) to the R3 shelf (Belay! Piton!). Traverse left-up along the boundary of rocks and snow for 100 m (Pitons!) to reach the ridge crest. Exit onto the crest above the "finger". From here, climb up the sharp crest to the shoulder. There's a control cairn here. From the bivouac to the shoulder, it takes 5.5–6 hours. (There are many loose rocks on the shelves. To ensure better passage, preliminary processing of the shelves is necessary the day before!). Bivouac site. No water.

Pyramid Peak — 3760 m

Ascent via the northern counterfort — Cat. 3B difficulty

Description of the ascent route to the summit

The path from the camp to the bivouac — see the description of the Cat. 4A route.

Championship of the Southern and North Caucasian Federal Districts, high-altitude technical class Team of Stavropol Krai — 2

Report

on the ascent to the summit Shokoladny peak via the southwest wall, 5B, rock climbing. Despье Route Stavropol, 2024

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus, Uzunkol, Myrd gorge, route 2.3.132.
2. Summit: Shokoladny peak (3650), via the southwest wall (Despье, 1975)

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Chirikol 3528 m via the South-Eastern ridge from Burvestnik Yuzhny pass according to the route of 3A category of complexity by the AUSB Uzunkol team from Stavropol on 19.08.2023

I. Ascent Report

Report

on the first ascent to the summit Dolomit Yuzhny via the Southwest Edge approximately 4B category of complexity by the team of Voronezh Region August 6, 2021

I. Climbing Passport

AADIP-CY-5ALUU 4370 m

3. Route Description

Route of ascent to the summit ALYR-SU-BASHI via the northwest ridge (4370 m) Route category 3B The summit ALYR-SU-BASHI is located in the northern Alyr spur of the Main Caucasian Range, between the Goudunov and Granovsky passes. Three ridges radiate from the summit:

• to the North
• to the Northwest
• to the South A counterforce extends eastward to the Bashdy glacier.