Passport

I. Class — technical 2. Tian Shan, Western Kokshaal-Too 3. Pik Podmoskovny via North Ridge 4. Proposed 5B category, first ascent 5. Elevation gain 1133 m. Distance 1250 m. Distance of sections with 5–6 category difficulty 730 m, including 120 m of 6 category. Average steepness of the main part of the route 65°. 6. Pitons driven: rock — 32/3, bolted — 0/0, chocks — 51/8, ice screws — 12/0 7. Team's travel time: 24 hours and 3 days.

Passport

1. Technical category
2. Tian-Shan, western Kokshaal-Tau, Chon-Turasu valley
3. Peak Trapeziya (5240 m) via the SE wall and East ridge
4. Proposed 5B category, first ascent
5. Height difference 1140 m. Length 1970 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 460 m. 6th category difficulty — 92 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 62°, entire route — 41°

Trezubets peak is the main elevation of a powerful spur that separates Ototaš glacier and the eastern branch of Komarov glacier. The spur has steep icy slopes interrupted by sheer rock drops. The ascent to Trezubets peak is made from Ototaš glacier, where a camp is usually set up. It is quite difficult to chart a specific route to the summit due to the lack of good landmarks. It is worth noting that the ascent should begin from the north side of the sheer rock wall opposite to Obzorny peak. After ascending 400–450 m up the icy rocks, there follows an icy section: here, one has to overcome a 60-degree ice wall with crevasses in a couloir. The final section — up to the ridge — is snowy. The ridge is rocky and sharp; the length of its traverse depends on the point of ascent to the ridge. The highest point is not clearly expressed — it is a pillar-gendarme.

Ascent to Trezubets peak via the eastern wall (cat. 3B) 5258

We leave the camp located at the foot of the Main summit of Trezubets peak at 5:00. After 70 m of movement across the glacier in deep snow, we reach the rocks. Their average steepness throughout is about 60°. We rope up in two pairs. Zarubin P. (leader) and Chasov E. — the first pair; Vasiliev (leader) and Ivanova V. — the second. The direction of movement is to the right along the walls, then up and to the left. Movement is always with alternate belay. The rocks are not solid, so it is not easy to organize a reliable belay. Very often, we belay through an ice axe driven into the dense icy firn. x) Ascents made by participants of these expeditions in other ridges are not considered by us. xx) The description is compiled by L. Vasiliev. A thin layer of ice and snow on the rocks hinders movement. Deep loose snow lies between the rocks. We carefully avoid couloirs. All of them show traces of recent large and small avalanches. In addition, many couloirs hide serac ice under a thin layer of snow.

Along the destroyed western ridge with several depressions, we reach the corniced ridge (R0–R1), which turns north (R1–R2). Along the sections (R0–R1), (R1–R2), simultaneous protection is used on snow. Further, the ridge turns east, section (R2–R3) to a rocky gendarme. The gendarme (R3–R4) is passed "head-on". Rocks of third and fourth difficulty categories. There is a control cairn on the gendarme. Section (R4–R5) is a descent from the gendarme to the overnight site. Overnight stay on snow, with cornices to the left, requiring increased attention. Entry with an overnight stay in crampons. Section (5–6) is covered in 30 minutes. It is dangerous, especially in poor visibility. There are cornices on the left and a 50 m long bergschrund on the right. The distance between the bergschrund and the cornices is 15 m. Here, alternating protection is used on snow. Section (6–7) is an ascent to the forepeak, 160 m long, with alternating protection. The descent from the forepeak (7–8) is relatively straightforward, 40 m long. Section (8–9) is an ice rise leading to the summit, 140 m long. The cairn is located 4 m below in the rocky ridge coming from the southeast, as the highest point is an ice dome. Descent follows the ascent route.

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Western Kakshaal Too Range. Jangart River valley.
2. Name of the peak: 4911 m. Proposed name — Pik Aleksey. Route: via the north-west wall
3. Proposed category of difficulty: 4B, first ascent. Note: the participants of the ascent gave the following category of difficulty: class IV, WI4, rock max 3. Explanation: IV — a full day of technical climbing. WI4 — prolonged sections of 80°, sufficiently long sections of 90° with occasional places to rest.
4. Character of the route: combined
5. Height difference of the route: 757 m (according to GPS readings).

TO THE QUALIFICATION COMMISSION OF THE ALPINISM FEDERATION OF RUSSIA

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Kosmos via the center of the North wall, presumably category 6B, by the team of the St. Petersburg Alpine Federation from September 26, 2021, to October 2, 2021.

I. Ascent Passport

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Climbing category — combined
2. Climbing area — Tian-Shan, Kungey Alatau ridge
3. Peak — DEMON, height — 3980 m, route — via Eastern wall, COMBINED
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4A
5. Route characteristics — height difference — 550 m — average steepness — 65° — sections of 5th difficulty category — 110 m
6. Pitons hammered

Description

Ascent Route

TO THE PEAK "30 YEARS OF ALPINISM IN KAZAKHSTAN" 4000 m above sea level Taldy River valley in the eastern part of Kungey Alatau Alma-Ata 1960. The peak "30 years of alpinism in Kazakhstan" is located in the eastern part of the Kungey Alatau ridge, in the Razdelny spur, which extends from the main ridge in a northerly direction from the peak Tashtau (3933 m) and separates the main source of the Taldy River from the Lednikovy stream. The ridge of the peak "30 years of alpinism in Kazakhstan" is stretched from south to north. The northern and southern peaks rise above it (the southern peak is higher). The peak "30 years of alpinism in Kazakhstan" is a rocky peak without glaciation. The eastern slope, descending into the circus of the Lednikova lateral valley, is of great steepness, cut by several steep couloirs. On the western side, there is a cirque, and at the end of the spur, there are steep slabs.

1. Climbing class: High-altitude technical
2. Climbing area, ridge: Central Tien-Shan, Terekty river area.
3. Peak, its height, climbing route: peak Sovetskoy Konstitutsii 5250 m via the Eastern wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 6B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1320.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying: 232. Placement elements: 126. Rock: 94 Ice: 12 Bolt: none

Ascent Log

1. Climbing grade — technically challenging.
2. Ascent area — Main Caucasian Ridge and its spurs from Chipperaza Pass to Ortokara peak.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Mt. Latsga (3999 m) eastern wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 620 m average steepness — 52° length of sections — 5th cat. diff. — 197 m
6. Pitons hammered: for belay and for creating R.P.E. rock pitons 56