Description of the route to the summit of Tsey-Loam via the SW wall (Trikozov's route), 4A category of difficulty 2.9.54 according to KMGV

Trikozov's route on Tsey-Loam peak in the Dzheyrakh district of Ingushetia is an interesting, moderately complex and technical line. In the first ascenders' report, the category of difficulty is indicated as 3A, while in the FAR classifier, it is listed as 4A category of difficulty. The name "via the NW wall" is a typo; the route actually follows the SW wall. The route is more challenging than the route through a series of chimneys on the right part of the SE wall on Zub peak, 4A category of difficulty, but easier than Donskov's route on the left edge of the SW ridge on Koazoy-Loam peak, 4B category of difficulty. The route is not recommended as a first independent 4A climb: it involves pendulum moves, diagonal belays, and artificial climbing techniques (ITC), and requires navigation skills on the approach and the route. Descending via the ascent route is complicated due to numerous diagonal sections. The approach to the route starts along the grassy slopes immediately behind the Kyazi tourist center in the direction of the SW wall of Tsey-Loam peak (photo 1). The jagged peaks are bypassed on the left via grassy ledges. The route's landmark is the couloir running along the SW wall and a massive plug at its beginning (photo 3). Photo 1. Approach from Kyazi tourist center. Internet photograph R0–R1: A 10 m wall of easy climbing, bypassing the plug in the couloir, followed by 600 m along the couloir. Scree, "ram's foreheads," and hard firn at the beginning of May. The simple terrain leads out to the right from the couloir onto the R1 ridge between the wall and the rocky ridge (photo 4). The main couloir continues upwards (photo 5). R1–R2: 60 m upwards of easy climbing.

Since many get lost on the route, I decided to write an addition to the description. The ledge on which "many" get lost, after R6, is misleading due to the description: according to it, the section R6–R7 is 60 m long, but in reality it's no more than 30 m. R6–R8 There's a belay station near a juniper bush, from it go left along the wall, as soon as it ends:

• go 8–10 m
• climb up the grassy ledges to the wall, also about 10 m From this point, on the right, you can see a flake:
• go under it
• 8 m up on it
• then immediately left, or right around the bend On the right, around the bend, there's an inner corner with grassy tufts/ledges, the walls are smooth.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

I. Ascent class — rock climbing 2. Ascent area — 2.9 Eastern Caucasus Seldi 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — 2nd Western Yary-dag (3900 m) via the western wall 4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m average steepness — 55–60° section lengths: R1-200, R2-300, R3-50, R4-12, R5-100, R6-40, R7-50, R8-60, R9-30 6. Pitons driven: for belaying:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class
2. Ascent area
3. Peak, its height and ascent route
4. Proposed difficulty category
5. Route characteristics:
6. Number of pitons hammered for belay: rock, ice, bolted
7. Number of travel hours
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification

General view of p. Nulkovsky from the 10th branch of the glacier 170 NE 36 km. 7. C HOM E. za­cund, 74 12, 14, 15

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock.
2. Ascent areas — Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Bashnya, 2800 m, via the northern counterfort.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 2A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 150 m; average steepness — 45°.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying — 0; for Aids — 0.

Climbing Area Map

Geographic Location, Climate, and Sporting Characteristics of the Area

Administratively, the area belongs to the Buryat ASSR. The Diplomnnik peak closes the northwestern cirque of the Tunka River valley and is located in the main watershed ridge of the Tunkinsky Goltsy range in the Eastern Sayan Mountains. The relief of the area is alpine, rugged, with peaks characterized by numerous destroyed counterforts, bizarre granite "towers," and "knives" having a monolithic block structure. The absolute heights of the peaks are around 3000 m, with Diplomnnik peak being 2896 m. The snow cover begins to form in August and September on the leeward slopes, reaching a depth of 2 m, and almost completely melts only by the end of May or June. Weather characteristics:

• During the establishment of winter conditions (in October and November), the weather is unstable, with snowstorms and frequent, sharp cold snaps (sometimes up to 35°).
• Winter weather conditions are stable and sunny.
• The sharply continental climate causes significant temperature fluctuations: at night, temperatures average -30°C, sometimes dropping to -45°C, while during the day, they average -20°C to -25°C, sometimes dropping to -40°C.
• In mountain cirques, it is 5–10 degrees warmer.

Sections R3–R7

• R3
• R4
• R5
• R6
• R7 Section R5–R6
• R5
• R6

PASSPORT

1. Climbing category: rock climbing.
2. Climbing area: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Peak: Zub Drakona (Dragon's Tooth), 2021 m, via the edge of the S wall.
4. Proposed category: 5A, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain: 400 m; route length: approximately 600 m; length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty: 200 m; average steepness: 56°;

58. Triangle — Khimik

(combined route by D. Sukhodolsky, category 3B, fig. 5, 6). The path from the Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4-12 people) to the old right-bank moraine of the Azot glacier is described in route 52. From the moraine, turn right and ascend via scree and easy, broken rocks of the couloir to the saddle of the Western ridge of Triangle peak. From the alpine camp, 2.5-3 hours. On the saddle, turn left and ascend 80-100 m via easy rocks of the Western ridge to below a rock wall. From under the wall, traverse several gendarmes via easy, straightforward rocks and scree on the right side of the Western ridge, and then traverse (with belay) across the ice-snow slope to below a rock tower. Traverse the tower along the boundary between the ice-snow slope and rocks, and then ascend to a col below the summit spire. From the col, ascend via steep, straightforward monolithic rocks of the Western ridge's spire to the summit of Triangle.

• From the right-bank moraine: 3-4 hours
• From Ullutau alpine camp: 6-7 hours From Triangle summit, descend via easy rocks of the Eastern ridge to a saddle. Then, traverse along the ice-snow slope on the left side of the wide, gendarme-studded ridge of the long saddle to below a large gendarme, Rock. Traverse the gendarme to the right (with belay), ascending behind it to the ridge, and then follow the straightforward ridge, passing low gendarmes head-on, to below the Trapezium gendarme. Ascend the Trapezium via steep, moderately difficult rocks (with piton belay) of the ridge. From Trapezium, descend via moderately difficult rocks of the ridge to a saddle, and then traverse along the saddle, passing the Small gendarme head-on (with belay), to below the summit tower of Moskovsky Komsomolets. From here, ascend via steep slabs and moderately difficult rocks of the Western ridge (with piton belay) to the summit of Moskovsky Komsomolets. From Triangle, 4-5 hours.