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Report on the first ascent of a Category 3B route on the North face of Pik Kavkaz Centralny (4105 m) in August 2019 by a team from the Technolog Alpine Club.

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Pik Kavkaz Tsentralny (4105 m) - the first ascent of the route via the North slope, category 3B, by the team of alpine club "Tekhnolog" on August 2, 2019. Participants:

  • Barabashov A.A.
  • Shabelnikov S.V. St. Petersburg, 2020

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderBarabashov Anton Alekseevich, Master of Sports
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Report on the first ascent of Peak MNR (SW) via the Eastern ridge, category 3B, by the Shkhelda alpine camp team on August 15, 2022.

Report

on the first ascent of Peak MNR (SW) via the Eastern ridge, category 3B, by the team of alplager "SHKhelda" on July 15, 2022

I. Ascent Log

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderKorolev Alexander Viktorovich, Candidate Master of Sports
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participants1. Murzich Alexander Yuryevich, 3rd category
2. Kovshik Vladimir Leonidovich, 3rd category
3. Titova Natalia Yuryevna, 3rd category
1.3Full name of the coachKorolev Alexander Viktorovich
1.4OrganizationLLC "SHKhelda" (alplager "SHKhelda")
2. Characteristics of the ascent object
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Report on the first ascent of Peak 3545 via the Eastern Ridge, category 2B, accomplished by the Shkhelda alpine camp group on June 23, 2021.

Report

on the first ascent of Peak 3545 (Peak Yubileiny) via the East Ridge, category 2B, by the team from the "SHKELDA" alpine camp June 21, 2021

I. Ascent Passport

№ item1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderKorolev Alexander Viktorovich, CMS
1.2Full name, sports rank of participants1. Belousov Alexey Georgievich, 3rd sports rank
2. Buyanov Yan Viktorovich, 2nd sports rank
3. Prigolovkina Alla Igorevna, 3rd sports rank
4. Rabdanov Bator Tsybanovich, 3rd sports rank
1.3Full name of the coachKorolev Alexander Viktorovich
1.4OrganizationLLC "SHKELDA" (alpine camp "SHKELDA")
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Report on the first ascent of Category 1B route via the southern edge of Teegeneklibashi peak (3502 m) in the Baksan gorge of the Caucasus.

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Tegeneklibashi

via the South Ridge, category 1B (approximately) AM OOO "Alpine Camps Management" "Adyl-Su 2022" December 15, 2022

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderRastorguev Alexander Alekseevich, Master of Sports
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Report on the first ascent of Tegelenbashi peak via the South-Eastern ridge, category 1B difficulty level, in the Caucasus.

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Tegeneklibashi

Via the South-Eastern ridge, category 1B (approximately) complexity AM LLC "Alpine Camps Management" "ADYL-SU 2022" October 31, 2022

I. Ascent Passport

№№ p.p.1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderRastorguev Alexander Alekseevich, Master of Sports
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Report on the first ascent to the summit of Tegeneklibashi via the South-Eastern Edge, a Category 2A climb, with a detailed description of the route and technical details.

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF TEGENEKLIBASHI PEAK VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE, CATEGORY 2A (ORIENTATIONAL) DIFFICULTY LEVEL AM AUSC Tyrnyauz UTS Tegenekli May 1, 2024

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the team leaderSolovei Aleksei Igorevich, Master of Sports
1.2Full name, sports rank of participantsBelyaev Vladimir Viktorovich, badge holder
Voinov Alexander Alexandrovich, 2nd sports rank
Lovushkin Aleksei Nikolaevich, 3rd sports rank
Prokopchuk Dmitry Igorevich, badge holder
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Ascent to the summit of Айлама (Ailama) via the Northeast ridge, route category 4A, ice-snow slope, 6-10 hours from the initial bivouac.

80. Aylama via the Northeast ridge-slope (ice and snow route, G. Wullea, cat. 4A, fig. 5, 17). From the Aylama camps (camp 44) cross (closed crevasses) the Western branch of the Aylama glacier and, along the snowy slopes on the right side of the Western branch, move towards the Eastern walls of the Aylama summit. Here, turn right and, following the center, bypass numerous crevasses of the heavily crevassed Northwest short steep branch, which flows into the Western branch of the Aylama glacier, and approach the left side of the upper part of the Northeast ridge of the summit (closed crevasses). Then:

  • 500–600 m upwards, keeping to the right side of the steep heavily crevassed ice and snow Eastern slope;
  • ascend to the Northeast ridge at the point where it turns into the ice and snow slope of the summit dome. From here, ascend 300–350 m up and to the right along the steep ice and snow slope, bypassing ice cliffs and drops (avalanches, ice falls). Below are the ice falls of the North wall! Then turn left and, along the gradually flattening 400–500-meter snow slope (avalanches), reach the summit of Aylama. From the initial bivouac, 6–10 hours. M. Chertkov's group ascended to the Northeast ridge from the Dykhsu glacier. Fig. 17.
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Ascent to Ailama via the Western ridge, a combined route of 4B category of difficulty, including ice-snow and rocky sections.

76. Aylama via the West Ridge (combined route, I. Marra, category 4B difficulty, fig. 5, 15, 17). From the upper plateau of Koruldashi Glacier (m. 72), approach the wide snowy southern slope of the saddle between Aylama Malaya peak and the Big Sharp Gendarme of Aylama's West Ridge. From the plateau, cross the bergschrund on the left side of the steep wide snowy slope, 400–500 m up, to the right of the rocks of the East Ridge of Aylama Malaya peak. Having overcome the second bergschrund or bypassed it on the left via the rocks, 600–700 m up and to the right, towards the couloir on the left side of the Big Gendarme. Follow the winding couloir, known as the "Zmeika" (Snake) couloir, 150–200 m up, to

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Ascent to Belaya Neznakomka via the Eastern Ridge, a combined route of 3A category of difficulty, with a description of key sections and characteristic obstacles.

46. Be­лая Ne­zna­kom­ka via East­ern ridge (the route is com­bined, V. Saba­niz­dze, cat­egory III, fig. 5, 8). From the pla­teau (point 37) along a steep ice-and-snow slope, with out­crops of bro­ken rocks of me­dium dif­fi­culty, 150–200 m as­cent (pitons) to the Lower Shoul­der of the East­ern ridge. On the right there are ice falls. Fur­ther 200–250 m along the sim­ple ice-and-snow East­ern ridge (cor­nices) to the Snow Sen­tinel. From it a short des­cent to a sad­dle. Fur­ther along a gen­tle, then along a steep 50–60-me­ter ice-and-snow II as­cent and along frozen 20–40-me­ter rocks of me­dium dif­fi­culty (cor­nices, pitons) to the East­ern sen­tinel. From the sen­tinel along the snow East­ern ridge (cor­nices) to the sad­dle and along a steep 50–60-me­ter ice-and-snow (pitons) III as­cent, then along sim­ple

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Route passport for Peak Shurovskogo via the Western wall through "Surok", category of complexity 5B, height difference 959 m.

PASSPORT

  1. Class — technical;
  2. Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range;
  3. Peak Shurovskogo 4295 m, via the Western wall through "Surok";
  4. Cat. diff. — 5B;
  5. Height difference — 959 m. Route length — 1804 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. 375 m; Average steepness 64°, steepness of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. 72°.
  6. Pitons driven | Rock pitons | Nuts | Bolts | | :---------: | :----: | :----: |
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