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Route Description: С склону
Report on the first ascent of a Category 3B route on the North face of Pik Kavkaz Centralny (4105 m) in August 2019 by a team from the Technolog Alpine Club.
Report
on the ascent to the summit of Pik Kavkaz Tsentralny (4105 m) - the first ascent of the route via the North slope, category 3B, by the team of alpine club "Tekhnolog" on August 2, 2019. Participants:
- Barabashov A.A.
- Shabelnikov S.V. St. Petersburg, 2020
I. Ascent Passport
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Barabashov Anton Alekseevich, Master of Sports |
Route Description: В гребню
Report on the first ascent of Peak MNR (SW) via the Eastern ridge, category 3B, by the Shkhelda alpine camp team on August 15, 2022.
Report
on the first ascent of Peak MNR (SW) via the Eastern ridge, category 3B, by the team of alplager "SHKhelda" on July 15, 2022
I. Ascent Log
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Korolev Alexander Viktorovich, Candidate Master of Sports |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | 1. Murzich Alexander Yuryevich, 3rd category 2. Kovshik Vladimir Leonidovich, 3rd category 3. Titova Natalia Yuryevna, 3rd category |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Korolev Alexander Viktorovich |
| 1.4 | Organization | LLC "SHKhelda" (alplager "SHKhelda") |
| 2. Characteristics of the ascent object |
Route Description: В гребню
Report on the first ascent of Peak 3545 via the Eastern Ridge, category 2B, accomplished by the Shkhelda alpine camp group on June 23, 2021.
Report
on the first ascent of Peak 3545 (Peak Yubileiny) via the East Ridge, category 2B, by the team from the "SHKELDA" alpine camp June 21, 2021
I. Ascent Passport
| № item | 1. General Information | |||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Korolev Alexander Viktorovich, CMS | ||||||||
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | 1. Belousov Alexey Georgievich, 3rd sports rank 2. Buyanov Yan Viktorovich, 2nd sports rank 3. Prigolovkina Alla Igorevna, 3rd sports rank 4. Rabdanov Bator Tsybanovich, 3rd sports rank | ||||||||
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Korolev Alexander Viktorovich | ||||||||
| 1.4 | Organization | LLC "SHKELDA" (alpine camp "SHKELDA") |
Route Description: Ю ребру
Report on the first ascent of Category 1B route via the southern edge of Teegeneklibashi peak (3502 m) in the Baksan gorge of the Caucasus.
Report
On the first ascent to the summit of Tegeneklibashi
via the South Ridge, category 1B (approximately) AM OOO "Alpine Camps Management" "Adyl-Su 2022" December 15, 2022
I. Ascent Passport
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Rastorguev Alexander Alekseevich, Master of Sports |
Route Description: ЮВ гребню
Report on the first ascent of Tegelenbashi peak via the South-Eastern ridge, category 1B difficulty level, in the Caucasus.
Report
On the first ascent to the summit of Tegeneklibashi
Via the South-Eastern ridge, category 1B (approximately) complexity AM LLC "Alpine Camps Management" "ADYL-SU 2022" October 31, 2022
I. Ascent Passport
| №№ p.p. | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Rastorguev Alexander Alekseevich, Master of Sports |
Route Description: ЮВ ребру
Report on the first ascent to the summit of Tegeneklibashi via the South-Eastern Edge, a Category 2A climb, with a detailed description of the route and technical details.
REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF TEGENEKLIBASHI PEAK VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE, CATEGORY 2A (ORIENTATIONAL) DIFFICULTY LEVEL AM AUSC Tyrnyauz UTS Tegenekli May 1, 2024
I. Ascent Passport
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Solovei Aleksei Igorevich, Master of Sports |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Belyaev Vladimir Viktorovich, badge holder Voinov Alexander Alexandrovich, 2nd sports rank Lovushkin Aleksei Nikolaevich, 3rd sports rank Prokopchuk Dmitry Igorevich, badge holder |
Route Description: СВ гребню
Ascent to the summit of Айлама (Ailama) via the Northeast ridge, route category 4A, ice-snow slope, 6-10 hours from the initial bivouac.
80. Aylama via the Northeast ridge-slope (ice and snow route, G. Wullea, cat. 4A, fig. 5, 17). From the Aylama camps (camp 44) cross (closed crevasses) the Western branch of the Aylama glacier and, along the snowy slopes on the right side of the Western branch, move towards the Eastern walls of the Aylama summit.
Here, turn right and, following the center, bypass numerous crevasses of the heavily crevassed Northwest short steep branch, which flows into the Western branch of the Aylama glacier, and approach the left side of the upper part of the Northeast ridge of the summit (closed crevasses). Then:
- 500–600 m upwards, keeping to the right side of the steep heavily crevassed ice and snow Eastern slope;
- ascend to the Northeast ridge at the point where it turns into the ice and snow slope of the summit dome.
From here, ascend 300–350 m up and to the right along the steep ice and snow slope, bypassing ice cliffs and drops (avalanches, ice falls). Below are the ice falls of the North wall! Then turn left and, along the gradually flattening 400–500-meter snow slope (avalanches), reach the summit of Aylama. From the initial bivouac, 6–10 hours.
M. Chertkov's group ascended to the Northeast ridge from the Dykhsu glacier.
Fig. 17.
Route Description: 3 гребню
Ascent to Ailama via the Western ridge, a combined route of 4B category of difficulty, including ice-snow and rocky sections.
76. Aylama via the West Ridge (combined route, I. Marra, category 4B difficulty,
fig. 5, 15, 17). From the upper plateau of Koruldashi Glacier (m. 72), approach the
wide snowy southern slope of the saddle between Aylama Malaya peak and the Big
Sharp Gendarme of Aylama's West Ridge.
From the plateau, cross the bergschrund on the left side of the steep wide snowy
slope, 400–500 m up, to the right of the rocks of the East Ridge of Aylama Malaya peak.
Having overcome the second bergschrund or bypassed it on the left via the rocks,
600–700 m up and to the right, towards the couloir on the left side of the Big Gendarme.
Follow the winding couloir, known as the "Zmeika" (Snake) couloir, 150–200 m up, to
Route Description: В гребню
Ascent to Belaya Neznakomka via the Eastern Ridge, a combined route of 3A category of difficulty, with a description of key sections and characteristic obstacles.
46. Beлая Neznakomka via Eastern ridge (the route is combined, V.
Sabanizdze, category III, fig. 5, 8). From the plateau (point 37) along a steep ice-and-snow slope,
with outcrops of broken rocks of medium difficulty, 150–200 m ascent (pitons) to the Lower Shoulder
of the Eastern ridge. On the right there are ice falls. Further
200–250 m along the simple ice-and-snow Eastern ridge (cornices) to the Snow Sentinel. From it a short descent to a saddle. Further along a gentle,
then along a steep 50–60-meter ice-and-snow II ascent and along frozen
20–40-meter rocks of medium difficulty (cornices, pitons) to the Eastern sentinel.
From the sentinel along the snow Eastern ridge (cornices) to the saddle and along a steep
50–60-meter ice-and-snow (pitons) III ascent, then along simple
Route Description: 3 стене сурка
Route passport for Peak Shurovskogo via the Western wall through "Surok", category of complexity 5B, height difference 959 m.
PASSPORT
- Class — technical;
- Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range;
- Peak Shurovskogo 4295 m, via the Western wall through "Surok";
- Cat. diff. — 5B;
- Height difference — 959 m. Route length — 1804 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. 375 m; Average steepness 64°, steepness of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. 72°.
- Pitons driven | Rock pitons | Nuts | Bolts | | :---------: | :----: | :----: |