Ascent Passport

1. Category: ice and snow climb
2. Caucasus, Tsey Gorge
3. Mamisong, 4358 m, via the left icefall of the north face
4. Proposed route — Category 5B difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain: 780 m, route length 1060 m. Length of Category 5B sections — 380 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 60° (3820 m — 4140 m).
6. Ice screws used: 89
7. Team's climbing hours — 7, days — II.
8. No overnight stays.

27.12.83

Passport

Ascent to Mt. Mamisong-hokh via icefalls of the North Face

1. Ascent category — snow and ice climb.
2. Ascent area — Caucasus, Tsey.
3. Ascent route — “Mamisong-hokh, 4358 m, via icefalls of the North Face.”
4. Route description:
   • route length — 920 m
   • height difference — 858 m
   • average steepness — 55°

Kharkov

Report

on the 1967 Ukrainian SSR Alpine Championship by the Kharkov regional council team of the "Avangard" sports society in the category of technically complex ascents

Team Composition

Kharkov regional council of the "Avangard" sports society

1. Grigorenko-Prigoda Yuri Ivanovich

Master of Sports of the USSR in mountaineering, engaged in mountaineering since 1956, born in 1935, Ukrainian, non-partisan

2. Neborak Valentin Stepanovich

Route: "Central (Ryazan) via the North face" (via the left part of the North face) Mountain: Chatyntau, 4411 m Region: Bezengi Route characteristics: rock-ice Route elevation gain: 1100 m Route length: 1400 m Average slope: 55° Total climbing time: 30 hours Category: 6A Route author: Ryazan A.

Report on the Ascent to the Summit of "Pik Ostry" (4050 m) via the North Face

Route Category 5B

Region: Pamir, Western Murghab, Severny Tanymas ridge. Peak: "Pik Ostry" (4050 m). Route: via the north face, category 5B (first ascent). Leader: Ivanov A.A. (CMS, 1st sports category). Participants: Petrov S.V. (1st sports category), Sidorov I.N. (CMS). Departure: August 15, 2023, 9:00. Return: August 16, 2023, 17:30. Total Time: 32 h 30 min.

II. ASCENT PASS

1. ASCENT CLASS — TECHNICAL
2. ASCENT REGION — 2.7
3. PEAK — MALAYA SONGUTI, 3800 m, VIA NORTH-WEST COUNTERFORT OF NORTH WALL
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 4A
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: ELEVATION GAIN 500 m, AVERAGE STEEPNESS 70°, LENGTH OF SECTION II — 40 m, III — 490 m, IV — 155 m, V — 45 m
6. PITS DRIVEN: ROCK — 16, BOLTS — 0, ICE — 1
7. TOTAL CLIMBING TIME — 8 hours
8. NIGHTS SPENT ON ROUTE — NONE
9. NAME AND SPORTS QUALIFICATION OF TEAM LEADER AND PARTICIPANTS

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — ice and snow.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Tsey Range.
3. Peak, route: Uilpata, via the left part of the southern ice slope.
4. Expected category of difficulty, 3B — first ascent.
5. Height difference: 900 m,
   • including 500 m of wall section,
   • total route length — about 800 m (wall section),
   • average steepness of the route — 35°,
   • steepness of the wall section — 45°.

The path from the Tsey district CSP or from the village of Dzinaga to the initial bivouac on the sites of the Western ridge of Bivouachnaya peak. From the bivouac (departure at 3:00–4:00 am due to avalanche danger), from the snow plateau (closed crevasses) bypass Bivouachnaya peak from the left (from the north), and behind it approach the North-west edge of Uilpata peak. From the plateau, having crossed the bergschrund on a snow bridge, approach the rocks of the North-west edge along a steep ice-and-snow 100–120-meter slope. Up a steep ice slope on the right side of the rocks of the North-west edge 350–400 m straight up (pitons belay). Before the ice rise, exit left onto the rocks of the North-west edge. Up 40 m along the heavily destroyed rocks of medium difficulty of the edge to the rock rise, then up 40-meter rise with rocks of above medium difficulty («live» stones — pitons belay) — ascent to the talus sites. From the sites, along the rocks of medium difficulty of the edge, approach the wall, which is bypassed on the right along a steep 100-meter ice-and-snow slope (pitons belay). Then up a steep 200-meter ice-and-snow North-west edge (pitons belay) — ascent to the summit ridge and along it (cornices) — exit to the summit of Uilpata.

UILPATA

Ascent Log

1. Climbing grade — technically challenging.
2. Ascent area — Main Caucasian Ridge and its spurs from Chipperaza Pass to Ortokara peak.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Mt. Latsga (3999 m) eastern wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 620 m average steepness — 52° length of sections — 5th cat. diff. — 197 m
6. Pitons hammered: for belay and for creating R.P.E. rock pitons 56