4. ROUTE DESCRIPTION Ascent to the Main peak of Sakashil-Bashi (4100 m) via the northern edge Day 1 - approach through the Sakashil-do gorge to the bivouac on the left-bank moraine of the Central Glacier (at an elevation of 3430 m) - see the general description of ascents to the Sakashil-Bashi massif. From Tyrnyauz - 9:00-10:00. Day 2 - departure should be early - at 3-4 am; from the bivouac, follow the glacier to the foot of the rock buttress, approach the bergschrund (at the beginning of summer, the glacier is snow-covered, by the end of summer - open, crevices are easily bypassed). The elevation of the bergschrund edge under the buttress is 3530 m. Cramp-ons are put on here. Crossing the bergschrund is not complicated - at the beginning of summer it is closed, at the end (September 1969) it is possible to cross on snow bridges. One rope is passed directly up the ice couloir (at the beginning of summer - firn) between the two rock ridges of the buttress. Steepness is about 45°. Then, crossing the couloir to the right and upwards, we approach the rocks of the right (along the route) ridge and move along the edge of the ice and rocks; at the end of the second rope, a rock piton is hammered in for belay. After crossing a small ice tongue, we emerge onto the rocks. Cramp-ons are removed and we ascend the rocks upwards along the couloir for one rope. Rocks are of medium difficulty, heavily destroyed (unstable rocks). Further:

• to the right - along a vaguely expressed internal corner, one rope, one intermediate piton is hammered in;
• then slightly to the right and up along a steep internal corner with a small number of holds, exit to the ridge of the buttress.

The summit of MALAА Ј­ŽBA is located in the main Caucasian ridge on the Ј­žbinskoye plateau. To the northeast of M. Ј­žba is the summit of Chatyn-Tau, to the southwest — Severnyaya and Yuzhnaya Ј­žba, to the north — Shchurovsky peak. The summit of M. Ј­žba rises above the Ј­žbinskoye plateau by 150 meters. The only ridge descending from the summit goes in the direction of the Chalaat pass; in the three other directions, the slopes of the summit break off with steep walls. The first Soviet ascent was made in 1936 by a group consisting of Sidorenko and Slobodskaya via the right couloir. The ascent to the summit is made from the Ј­žbinskoye plateau. The ascent from the plateau to the summit and descent back to the plateau takes 3–4.5 hours.

Mt. Dvuzubka (N), 1509 m, 2A, cat. difficulty

Mt. Dvuzubka (N) 1509 m, via North Ridge 2A, cat. difficulty. The 1509 m peak (the left peak of "Dvuzubaya") is located in the central part of the peninsula, 82 km along the Petropavlovsk-Nachiki highway. It's 8 km east from the highway to the foot of the peak. Ascent plan to Mt. 1509 on November 6:

• 18:00 - departure from the city
• ski approach to the lake at the foot of the peak November 7, 8:00 - start of the route and ascent to the summit. 14:00 - descent from the summit to the base camp. November 8 - return to the city.

Route Description

From the lake, which is at an altitude of 600 m above sea level, approach to the north ridge of the 1509 peak. The approach takes 1 hour. R1 - from the start of the route, 300 m upwards along the northern ridge through a snowy couloir - the northern ridge - heavily destroyed rocks, slope steepness is 25-30°. Movement is simultaneous. Corresponds to 1B cat. difficulty. Approach to monolithic rocks.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category - technical
2. Ascent area - group of volcanoes 30 km from Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky at 55° N
3. Peak, its height, route - Kozelsky peak (2070 m), first western edge
4. Proposed category difficulty - 3B
5. Route description: | # | Sections | Length | Average steepness | |:--|:-----------|:-------------|:------------------| | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | | --- | ---------- | ------------- | ---------------- |

Prot. No. 312 dated 17/X-70

Description of the ascent to the "Tooth" of Kozel'skiy volcano via the Western ridge, category 2A difficulty.

1. General description of the summit and its location.

Kozel'skaya sopka is part of the Avachinskaya group of volcanoes, located in the eastern part of the Kekhur ridge. The absolute height of Kozel'skaya sopka above sea level is 2210 m. It is an extinct volcano. Its slopes are composed of basalt and diabase. The slopes are generally gentle and mostly covered with a thick layer of slag. In the summer months, the pre-summit ridge is cleared of snow, exposing several gendarmes. However, snow persists on the slopes, even on the southern ones, throughout the summer. The northern slopes of the sopka are the walls of a large ancient crater, covered with ice and firn. These walls are densely strewn with basaltic "rock fingers". The volcano has three peaks:

• Western,
• Central,
• Eastern. The highest peak is the Eastern one, which is a rocky "tooth" rising 50 m above the general massif. The walls of the "tooth" are sheer on all sides. There is a non-wall passage along the south-eastern ridge (category 1B difficulty route). A glacier is located on the western side of the sopka (the glacier serves as a boundary between Avachinskiy and Kozel'skiy volcanoes), from which the Kozel'skiy stream flows. The foot of the volcano is heavily dissected by ravines. On the eastern side of the foot, there are quarries of construction organizations developing slag.

2. Approach to the ascent location.

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DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO KORYAKSKY VOLCANO VIA THE NORTHEAST RIDGE, CATEGORY 3B Category 3A (voice)

1. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE PEAK AND ITS LOCATION See the description of the ascent to Koryaksky volcano via the South Ridge, category 3B.
2. TRANSITION TO THE STARTING POINT OF THE ASCENT See the description of the ascent to Koryaksky volcano via the South Ridge. The dry riverbed is blocked in its upper reaches by an elevation overgrown with dense alder bushes. Only near the left bank, the river flowing from the Avachinsky glacier has carved a deep, narrow, solid bed. The river is turbulent and very muddy. The road continues along the right bank of the dry riverbed through thickets of alder bushes to the volcanological station. Practically, this road can be traversed at the end of July to October. The gullies filled with snow pose a serious obstacle for ordinary vehicles during May-July. If the vehicle cannot pass, further movement is on foot. The best passage is closer to the left bank of the dry riverbed through sparse alder bushes. The walking time to the volcanological station is 1 hour 15 minutes to 1 hour 30 minutes.

Route Description

to the Main Peak of Ganal'skiye Ostryaki from the northwest, category 3B difficulty

I. Approach and Ascent (see area map).

Drive along the Milkovo road to the bridge over the Vakhtang Mal'kinskiy river between km 145 and 146. Get off the road after the bridge. There's a quarry on the right. Cross it perpendicular to the road and exit onto a forest road. Follow the forest road 8-10 km along the river valley to a clearing with a tent frame (on the right side of the road). On the left side of the road, opposite the frame, there's a passage through the alder bushes. The trail begins there. Follow the trail along the left slope of the valley. Do not turn left uphill. The trail leads to a terrace - a hollow. Follow it to a dry riverbed that crosses the trail at the forest and shrub boundary. Cross to the other side of the riverbed and ascend along it for 50-70 m. The trail then:

• turns right,
• follows logging roads through alder bushes to a stream flowing from Mt. Yurchik. Cross the stream, walk along it downstream for 100-150 m, and turn left onto a terrace above the stream flowing from the Ostriaki cirque.

Ascending the summit of Klyuchevskaya Sopka from the west 2A cat. difficulty

Description

Klyuchevskoy volcano is the largest active volcano in Asia and the highest point in the RSFSR. Its height is 4750 m. The volcano has a regular conical shape with slopes of 35–40°. This volcano is still actively erupting. If you reach the summit during weak emissions from the vent, you can stay there overnight and witness an amazing spectacle. Above the crater, there is a fiery glow and fountains of sparks. The crater walls are 350–400 m high. To the north, the height decreases to 200 m. There are cracks along the entire perimeter of the crater:

• From the north, the crack reaches the bottom of the crater.
• You can enter the crater through the northern crack, but it involves certain risks. On the southern side, there is a crack with a depth of up to 25 m. On its left slope is the highest point of the summit — along the ascent route, there is a cairn with a note and an ice axe driven in. The ascent to Klyuchevskoy volcano is technically not difficult, but due to frequent and prolonged rockfalls, it requires great attention. The entire ascent must be done in teams with simultaneous belaying.

1. Approach to the starting point of the ascent

Photo 1. Beginning of section 2. Diagonal rocky couloir, steepness 40–45 °, composed of large debris material. Insurance through ledges. Photo 2. Section 2. Final part of the rocky couloir. Next is the transition to the eastern ridge. Photo 3. Entrance to the ice couloir. Steepness 45–50 degrees. Insurance via rock anchor. Photo 4. Inner corner (sect. 4). Firmly formed rocks, climbing of increased difficulty.

Moskovsky Komsomolets via the west ridge, combined, 1B

Route description:

Exit from the Ullu-Tau camp along the trail leading to rock climbing exercises. From the end of the trail, up the couloir and then left onto the moraine to the lake. From the lake, up to the right onto the snowy shoulder of the rock protruding into the cirque from the slopes of Moskovsky Komsomolets. Overnight stay on the shoulder. From the overnight stay, we ascend a snow slope of moderate steepness (ЗСИЮ0) to reach the northern edge. We follow the snowy ridge to the first gendarme head-on. Then, along the snowy saddle to a group of rocks and further to a large boulder. Along the steep snowy ridge, we proceed to the foot of the ring-shaped gendarme. The gendarme is passed on the left along the wall, exiting onto the left shoulder. Protection is provided through ledges. Further along the snowy ridge, we approach the summit tower and ascend the Eastern summit via rocks of moderate difficulty. The descent from the Eastern summit is done along the ridge to the saddle in the direction of Azot peak. Initially, we overcome a wall and then follow the snowy ridge, overcoming a series of small gendarmes that lead to a couloir. After passing the couloir, we exit onto the ridge somewhat above the saddle. The descent from the saddle is along a 45° snow slope. Careful belaying is necessary due to the possibility of a bergschrund. Further, the slope becomes more gentle and leads into the glacier cirque. The descent to the camp is done via the ascent route.