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DESCRIPTION OF THE ROUTE TO THE SUMMIT OF KALKUSH

VIA THE EAST FACE

Team: G.G. Andreev, CMS, team leader O.I. Shumilov, CMS V.P. Veiko, CMS Yu.A. Logachev, CMS The route was completed on July 12-14, 1969

REPORT

on the second ascent of Peak Koltsova, Main summit, 4824 m, East face Onysk OС – fast ascent category AA (14–15) 07.81. p. Koltsova Main 4824, 15.07.81.

BRIEF EXPLANATION

To the table of main characteristics

14.07.81. After receiving a full consultation on the passage of the wall section from the Nikolaichuk — Ufimtsev group on 13.07.81 via radio, we set out on the route at 06:00. We approached the start of the route on the right side of the large couloir of the East face. The route begins to the left of a small cave, from a rock straight up the overhanging wall about 30 m. Then the wall turns into an internal corner with eaves — 60 m. Attention! The rocks are destroyed!

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge, Yaghnob Wall area.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Zamin-Karor West shoulder, 3910 m, via the center of the NW wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4A.
5. Height difference (from the base of the wall) — 1100 m.
6. Average steepness — 60°.
7. Total route length — 1600 m.
8. Length of sections: 1st cat. diff. — 230 m; 2nd cat. diff. — 100 m; 3rd cat. diff. — 580 m; 4th cat. diff. — 420 m; 5th cat. diff. — 140 m.
9. Number of pitons driven:

on the left side, straight up to the rope to the end of the couloir, which ends with a chimney filled with ice. Climbing is extremely cautious, as there are many loose rocks. Above the couloir is a sheer wall, so we traverse to the right through the couloir's throat and exit to its right side. It is necessary to cross the couloir quickly due to the hanging crevice, from which pieces of ice break off and shoot through this couloir. In this section, the belay is piton (4 pitons), movement is along the fixed ropes. Section 56 From the couloir, we move to the rocks, which are steep but heavily dissected. Straight up, we climb one rope to a small ledge, where we can gather everyone. The time is already late, and we still haven't found a suitable platform for the tent. After

1. The ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Fan Mountains, Pamir-Alay
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their elevations: via the center of the north wall of ZINDON 4800 m, first ascent.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1200 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1089 m, average steepness — 84°
6. Number of pitons and chocks used for protection and artificial aids: rock — 334 (140), ice — 42 (2), bolt — 17 (16), chocks — 49 (37)
7. Number of climbing hours — 118
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 8 bivouacs, including:
   • sitting in a tent — 3
   • semi-reclining in a tent — 4

Ascent Passport

of the Kaliningrad Regional Council of the VDFSO Trade Unions (alpine club "Kant") team within the framework of the first Championship of the Russian Council of VDFSO Trade Unions on alpinism 1989.

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range.
3. Ascent object — Peak A. Blok (5239 m) via the southwestern ridge (Petricheko route).
4. Route difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference — 963 m
   • Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 367 m
   • Average steepness: overall — 52.4°

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technical 2. Area — Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge, Karavshin river valley 3. Peak 1000-letie krashcheniya Rusi, via the left part of the NW wall 4. 6A category of difficulty, second ascent — did not complete the upper part! 5. Height difference — 1307 m, route length — 1890 m, average steepness — 54°. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 990 m, including 365 m of 6 category. Steepness of the main route section: first wall — 62°, second wall — 83° 6. Pitons driven:

Passport

I. Rock climbing category. 2. Spurs of the Turkestan Range, Ak-su gorge. 3. Peak 4240 m, center of the North face. 4. Proposed 6B category of complexity, first ascent. 5. Height difference 830 m, length 968 m length of 6B sections — 583 m, 5B — 267 m average slope of the route — 75°, average slope of the wall section — 81° 6. Driven pitons: rock placement elements bolt ice

Russian Mountaineering Championship

High-altitude and technical class, 2023

Report

on the ascent to the summit of peak Breeze, 4430 m, via the internal corners of the northwest wall, 6B category of complexity, approximately. First ascent by the team from Krasnoyarsk from July 24, 2023, to July 25, 2023. 2023

I. Ascent Passport

Passport

1. Section number according to KMGV — 2010 — 2.4. Central Caucasus, mountain region — Prielbrusye, Terskol gorge, SE spur of Elbrus
2. Names of peaks: Sarykolbashi-tersak (3776) — Sarykol (3700) Route: traverse from south to north
3. Category of complexity: 2B
4. Character of the route — rock.
5. Height difference of the route: 1376 m
6. Length of the route: 3320 m
7. Length of sections with the highest category of complexity: