Report

On the ascent of the combined team of KCHR to the summit of Pik Ine 3455 m

via the southeastern counterfort. Presumably 4B category of complexity. First ascent. Semyonov M. A. — team leader Ankudinov A. I. — Candidate for Master of Sports Date of report compilation: November 2019

2. Caucasus

2.2 From Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass

Participants of the ascent

PASSPORT

Ascent to v. Hokel via the Eastern ridge

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range
3. Peak, route — v. Hokel, 3645 m, ascent via the Eastern ridge from the saddle between v. Hokel and the Nameless peak on the left.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 700 m length of sections: II cat. diff. — 400 m

Brief Characteristics of Dalar Peak

Dalar Peak (elevation 3981 m above sea level) is located in the western part of the Central Uplift of the Main Ridge. It is 25 km west-southwest of Elbrus. The chain of peaks (Filter, Zamok, Dvoinyashka, Dalar, and Shokoladny) bounds the cirque of the Bolshoy Kichkinokol glacier from the south, east, and west, giving rise to the eponymous river, which flows into the Uzunkol River. The first ascent to Dalar Peak was made in 1937 via route 3B cat. sl. After 1960, other routes were climbed and classified on Dalar:

• 5B on the North Face;
• 5B on the NE ridge;
• 4B from Shokoladny Peak;
• 4A from the south. The ridge from the east remained, which was traversed in the reverse direction (on descent) by a group from CSKA in 1962 during the traverse of the Kichkinokol horseshoe. The route along the Eastern ridge is very logical.

Sports Group Composition

For the championship of the Central Council of the Spartak Voluntary Sports Society in the category of technically complex ascents.

DALAR PEAK

via the western wall

Team of the Spartak CS DSS Alpine Camp "Uzunkol"

EAAC Championship in the Rock Category

Report

On the ascent of Dalar peak via the center of the NE wall of the East shoulder (first ascent) by the Combined team of Moscow region 2010

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge, section according to KMGV-2.3.
2. Dalar peak (3988 m) via the center of the NE wall of the East shoulder.
3. Proposed first ascent of 5B category.
4. Route type — rock climbing.

Team Composition

The MGS DSO "Spartak" team was formed in 1961. During 1961-1963, team members completed a series of climbs up to category 5B difficulty. Already in 1963, the team considered it possible to participate in the All-Union team competitions in the class of technically complex ascents. In July 1963, the team completed part of the declared route, but an earthquake forced the group to return. They completed a route on East Dombay-Ulgen via the south wall, which took 1st place in Moscow. The team composition, as per the application submitted to the judging committee, was determined to be 10 people. As a result of training ascents, the following group composition was determined:

• Kavunenko V. D. — Master of Sports of the USSR — leader
• Shataev V. N. — 1st sports category
• Polyakov L. D. — 1st sports category
• Magomedov Kh. K. — 1st sports category

Dalar

up the North-East wall. Team of “Trud” Sports Society Team leader: Master of Sports of the USSR Snesarev A. A. Team captain: Master of Sports of the USSR Stepanov V. V. The summit of “Dalar”, view from the North

Brief sports characteristic of Dalar peak

The year of the beginning of the development of the Gvandra region, where the Dalar peak is located, should be considered 1936, but already in 1937 most of the peaks in this region were conquered.

Dalar via NE wall, cat. 5B

I. Brief Geographical Description

The Dalar peak, with an elevation of 3981 meters above sea level, is located in the western part of the Central Uplift of the Main Ridge, southwest of the Elbrus peak (Gvandra area, Kichkinokol arch).

II. Sporting Characteristics of the Route and Its Exploration

Dalar is one of the most beautiful peaks in the Caucasus. The slightly northward-leaning rocky pyramid has long attracted the attention of mountaineers. The northeast wall, rising to almost 4000 meters, seemed particularly challenging yet interesting. The sporty exploration of the walls began in 1956 when a group led by N.M. Semenov first traversed the NE wall up to the base of the tower and then deviated left from the route onto the relatively simple eastern ridge. In 1962, a group from the "Trud" sports society, led by V.V. Stepanov, repeated this path (up to the tower) and then straightened it, deviating from the original route in the last upper part (ascending directly up the tower to the summit). See photo #1. In 1964, a group of Spartakovites led by V.D. Kavunenko followed Stepanov's path. Tactical Plan and Route Description to Dalar Peak via the Northeast Wall, Cat. 5B (Combined) Photo #1

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus, Gvandra region
3. Peak Dalar, 3979 m
4. Route — via the left part of the north-eastern wall of the bastion, first ascent, proposed 6A category of difficulty
5. Route elevation gain — 1430 m, route length — 1740 m, average slope — 68°, bastion wall elevation gain — 760 m, bastion wall length — 780 m, average slope — 80°. section lengths
   • category 5 — 800 m
   • category 6 — 320 m

Report on the ascent via the Central Bastion of the northern wall of Peak Burovsky (via the center of the bastion)

List of participants in the assault group

TABLE of the main characteristics of the ascent route to Peak Burovsky via the Central Bastion of the northern wall.

• Height difference of the route: 1060 m
  • Including the most challenging sections: 410 m
• Steepness of the route: 80–90°
  • Including the most challenging sections: 80–90° | Date | Section № | Steepness of the section | Height of the section, in m | Terrain characteristics | Technical difficulties | Type of belay | Weather conditions | Departure time | Time of stopping at bivouac | Travel hours | Rock pitons | Ice screws | Bolts | Dural and wooden wedges | Bivouac conditions | Weight of daily ration, in grams |