Report

Team of the Republic of Tatarstan on the ascent to Pik Svobodnoy Korei 4740 m via the northern wall couloir, 5B category of difficulty (G.Barber's route) on March 14, 2019. Team leader Coach Kazan 2019

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai valley, 7.4
2. Object of ascent — Pik Svobodnoy Korei, 4740 m, via the northern wall couloir (G.Barber's route)
3. Category of difficulty — 5B
4. Route type — ice and snow

149

Category of Technically Challenging Ascent

Report

On the ascent of "Svobodnaya Koreya" peak via the right part of the north face, entered for the CS DSO "Trud" Alpine Championship in the 1974 season Team of the Krasnoyarsk Regional Council of DSO "Trud" July 1974 Team captain (B. Bagaev) KRAKNOYARSK — 1974

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — winter
2. Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge
3. Object — Pik Svobodnaya Korea
4. Category of difficulty — 5B, KTM 148 (B.Bogaev, 74)
5. Height difference — 1124 m, length 1345 m, length of ice axe terrain sections 100 m, average steepness of the route 58° (bergschrund — ridge), average steepness of the wall 64° (3700–4580)
6. Pitons driven | rock | stoppers | ice | | :--: | :-----: | :-: | | 36 | 28 | 45 |

Russian Mountaineering Championship, Ice and Snow Climbing Class 2015

Report

Team from Sverdlovsk Oblast First ascent to the right of the left triangle of the northern wall of Pik Svobodnoy Korei, 4777 m (Ak-Sai valley) March 5-6, 2015

Ascent Passport

1. Class – Ice and Snow
2. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai valley (classification table number 7.4)
3. Svobodnoy Korei, 4777 m, to the right of the left triangle of the northern wall.

PASSPORT

1. Technical class
2. Tian Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea, 4777 m, via the right bastion of the S wall
4. Proposed — 6A category of complexity, first ascent
5. Route characteristics: | elevation gain | 670 m | | :--------------------------------------- | :---------- | | length | 1270 m | | length of section R5–R6 6 category | 555 m |

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — winter.
2. Region — Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too.
3. Peak — Sv. Korei 4777 m, via the left part of the north face.
4. Category — 6B, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: height difference: to the ridge — 530 m, to the summit — 650 m; distance: to the ridge — 680 m, to the summit about 1000 m; distance of 6th category sections — 300 m, 5th category — 380 m; average slope to the ridge — 65°;

Ascent Passport

1. Winter ascent category
2. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai gorge
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea, via N wall, W ridge, 4740 m
4. A. Kustovsky's route, 6A category; second ascent, first winter ascent
5. Route height difference 640 m
6. Total route length 924 m, including 625 m of wall section
7. Length of 6th category sections 204 m
8. Average route slope 63°

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too
3. Ascent route: Svobodnaya Koreya peak, 4740 meters, via the Central North Face route by V. Bezzubkin
4. Difficulty category: sixth
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1100 meters, sections of 5th-6th difficulty category, 1150 meters, average steepness 70°
6. Pitons used:
   • for belaying:
     • ice screws: 51
     • rock pitons: 76

Passport

1. Class of technical ascents
2. Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Aksay gorge
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea via the centre of the North face
4. 6B
5. Elevation gain 1140 m, length 1250 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 938 m. Average slope of the route 73°, main part (3710–4690) — 78°, including 6 difficulty category 80–85° (243 m), 87–95° (225 m).
6. Pitons driven: rock: 126 (25 used previously), bolt: 4 (new) + 4* (previously driven),

Ascent Log

1. Climbing grade — technically challenging.
2. Ascent area — Main Caucasian Ridge and its spurs from Chipperaza Pass to Ortokara peak.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Mt. Latsga (3999 m) eastern wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 620 m average steepness — 52° length of sections — 5th cat. diff. — 197 m
6. Pitons hammered: for belay and for creating R.P.E. rock pitons 56