Orography and Glaciation

Peak Maksim Gor'kiy (6,050 m) is undoubtedly one of the most technically challenging peaks in the vast mountain range of Tien Shan. This beautiful peak rises above the middle part of the Stalin Ridge, with Peak Chapayeva (6,371 m) to the east beyond a saddle, and Peak N. Krupskaya (5,900 m) — still unclimbed — to the west, beyond a sharp drop in the ridge. Peak Maksim Gor'kiy has the shape of a giant trapezoid, sharply elevated above the ridge line. The summit ridge stretches from west to east for almost 2 km, with the highest point located in the eastern part, rising 150–170 m above the ridge. Three lateral spurs descend towards the South Inylchek Glacier: — southeast; — south; — southwest. Moreover, in their lower parts, these spurs branch out into a series of rocky ridges heavily glaciated, thus forming numerous rocky walls. The southeast and south spurs merge at around 5,900 m and then connect to the summit dome via a short ridge. All ridges are sharp and typically crowned with large cornices overhanging to the east. The southwest ridge extends to approximately 5,500–5,600 m, where it transitions into a steep edge. To the east, the peak drops with a 1.5 km wall into the multi-kilometer cirque of the Chapayev Glacier. Between the southeast and south ridges lies a cirque with the Karatash Glacier.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude technical
2. Region — Tian-Shan, Tengri Tag ridge, route № 7.9.8
3. Peak — Khan-Tengri, via the Southwest ridge
4. Category of difficulty — 5A
5. Route type — combined
6. Route elevation gain — 2800 m. Route length — 5290 m. Length of sections with category difficulty — 1040 m. Average slope:

PASSPORT

1. Altitude-technical class
2. Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag range
3. Peak Khan-Tengri, via south-west slope, 6995 m
4. 2A cat. diff.
5. Height difference — 2795 m
6. Pitons driven: rock 0+8ˣ ice 1+2ˣ
7. Climbing time — 12.5 hours, days — 2
8. Overnight stays: in a snow cave

Passport

1. Class — high-altitude.
2. Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge.
3. Peak Khan Tengri, 7010 m, from S. Inylchek Glacier along the Western ridge via the Northern summit of Peak Chapayev (along the NE edge of Peak Chapayev's shoulder).
4. Complexity category — 5B.
5. Height difference — 2500 m, length — 9000 m, length of sections with 5 and 6 complexity categories — 400 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 30°.
6. 7 rock anchors hammered in, previously hammered anchors used.
7. Team's travel hours — 15.5 hours and days — 3.
8. Overnights: 1st — 5600 m — comfortable in a tent, 2nd — 5800 m — in a snow cave, all lying down.
9. Leader: Bolotov Alexey Vasilyevich — Candidate Master of Sports.

Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge. (7.9.13.)
2. Khan-Tengri peak, 7010 m, NE rib of Chapayev peak shoulder.
3. Route category — 5B.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Height difference — 2800 m, length — 9000 m, length of 5th and 6th cat. diff. sections — 400 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 30°.
6. 7 rock anchors hammered in, previously hammered anchors used.
7. Team's walking hours — 21:00 hrs and days — 3.
8. Overnights: 1st — 5600 m — comfortable in a tent, 2nd — 5800 m — in a snow cave, all reclining.
9. Team leader: Alexey Vasilyevich Bolotov — MS

on Khan-Tengri via NE edge of Chapayev Peak shoulder, Tian Shan, September 7, 2013

Passport

1. High-altitude class.
2. Tian Shan, North Inylchek glacier.
3. Khan-Tengri peak, via NE edge of Chapayev Peak shoulder.
4. 5B category of difficulty, Grebenshchikova memorial route.
5. Height difference: 2950 m, length 5110 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 310 m. Average steepness of NE edge of Chapayev Peak shoulder — 44°, average steepness of the 3rd ridge of Khan-Tengri Peak — 43°.
6. Number of pitons used: rock — 30+10*; snow — 8*; ice — 1. Left on the route: rock — 10*; snow — 8*.
7. Team's total climbing hours: 20 h and days — 4.

World Mountaineering Championship

High Altitude Class

National team of the Republic of Kazakhstan

Peak Khan-Tengri, 7010 m

via NE edge of Chapayev Peak's shoulder (classic route), Solomatov route 5A 2019

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge: Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge
2. Name of peak, route name: Peak Khan-Tengri, 6995 m, NE edge of Chapayev Peak's shoulder (B. Solomatov route, 1974)
3. Complexity category: 5A

Ascent Log

1. Tengri Tagh ridge.
2. Peak: Khan-Tengri, via the north ridge (Kuzmin).
3. Complexity category — 5B
4. Route type: combined.
5. Height difference — 2900 m. Distance — 5510 m. Length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 200 m. Average slope:

• main part of the route — 42°
• entire route — 32°

6. Pitons left on the route: total — 8 pcs.

Russian Alpinism Championship

High-altitude climbing category

Report on the ascent of the Krasnoyarsk Krai team to Peak Khan Tengri, 6995 m via the North Ridge, 5B category of difficulty

team captain team coaches

• V. A. Arkhipov
• N. N. Zakharov
• V. V. Balezin
• G. Krasnoyarsk 2005

5 Imakouk

4533 m Hovebka №2 4350 m R19

• R17
• R18 R16
• R14­–R15
• R12­–R8