REPORT

on the ascent to Mt. Ullarg via the Northwest Buttress by a group of climbers MOS DSO "Trud"

§ 1. Geographical description of the area and sporting characteristics of the region

The summit of Ullarg (4320 m) is located in a lateral spur of the main Caucasian ridge, beyond the peaks of Uilpata and Songuti-khokh. The peaks of Arcihevskogo and Oni-Ani follow after Ullarg. The Ullarg region is still poorly explored from the north. It is far from active camps, and there are no convenient approaches. The only relatively easy access is from the northeast, from the villages of Dunta and Komunta, along the Songuti-don river. The path from the villages of Dunta and Komunta is long and difficult to traverse. ¹

I35. Ularg via the Northwest Counterfort

(combined route, 5A category of difficulty) The path from the base camp on the Songuti River or from the Ceysky district KSP to the initial bivouac on the rocky ledges under the North wall of Ularg peak. From the ledges, along the snowy slope of the glacier (closed crevasses), approach the left side of the Northwest counterfort of Ularg peak. From the glacier, crossing the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend the 80-meter ice-and-snow slope to the rocks on the left side of the Northwest counterfort, 40 m to the left and above its rocky base. Along smooth slabs with a limited number of holds, steep, partially icy rocks of medium difficulty with a 10-meter wall of above-average difficulty above, then along heavily broken simple and medium-difficulty shelves and rocks — "live" stones 60–80 m up and to the right along the left side of the Northwest counterfort. Then traverse 40 m to the right, bypassing the "reddish" gendarme, to the right side of the Northwest counterfort. Along steep rocks of above-average difficulty on the right side of the counterfort, ascend 40 m to a narrow couloir. Up the difficult rocks of the vertical narrow couloir 80 m to a scree shelf on its right side. — The key point of the route, possible rockfalls, falling ice fragments — Along a snowy, scree-sloping shelf 40 m up and to the right. From the end of the shelf, ascend along difficult rocks with a small number of holds, a 60–70-meter wall with a shelf in the middle part. Further:

• along rocks of medium difficulty,
• then along the boundary of ice and rocks, exit to an inclined shelf crossing the Northwest counterfort.

163. Ular­g — Songuti (combined route by R. Andreev, cat. 4B). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4–8 people) to the summit of Ular­g via the East ridge is described in route 143. From the summit of Ular­g, descend along the moderately difficult rocks of the ridge ("live" stones) towards Pik Komsomolets. Then descend left along the snowy couloir to a snowy saddle and along it (cornice) approach Pik Komsomolets. From the saddle:

• along the ice-snow ridge,
• then along simple rocks — ascend to Pik Komsomolets. From Pik Komsomolets:
• along simple rocks,
• then along the snowy ridge — descend to the snowy saddle. Along the saddle (cornices) approach the Black Gendarme. Traverse the Black Gendarme from the right along a steep ice-snow slope for 65–70 m along the rocks (pitons), then 100–120 m along steep rocks.

Khitsan

The rocky peak of Khitsan (3651 m) is located in the eastern spur of the peak of Nikolaev, between this peak to the west and the Khitsan pass to the east. A combined route to the summit has been laid from the Khitsan pass. The rocks are heavily destroyed, but due to the ridge nature of the route, it is suitable for passage at any time. 197. Khitsan via the Eastern Ridge (combined route, category 1B difficulty, fig. 38). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4–12 people) to the Khitsan pass with the initial bivouac in the hut of the Southern branch of the Tsey glacier is described in route 83.

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Tsey gorge, section number according to the classification table: 2.7.
2. Khitsan (3600 m), via the Western ridge from the South.
3. Proposed category: 2B, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route elevation gain: 450 m. Route length: 1200 m. Section lengths:

• V category — 0 m
• VI category — 0 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 20°, total route: 25°.

6. Pitons left on the route: total 0; including drill pitons — 0, ice screws driven — 1.

Fig. 27 112. Peak TsDSA (4477 m) via North Ridge (route is combined, cat. 2B, fig. 27). The path from the CSP of Tsey area or from the village Dzhinaga (group of 4-20 people) to the saddle of Uilpatinsky Pass with initial bivouacs on the platforms of the Western Ridge of Bivouachnaya Peak or in the hut of the Southern branch of Tsey Glacier is described in the routes:

• 83
• 103

141. Peak TsDSA via the Southeast Ridge South Face

(combined route, cat. 4B difficulty) From the Uilpatinsky overnight camps, ascend the glacier, bypassing the Southeast face of Peak TsDSA, to reach the start of the route. Climb a 150–200 m snowy slope to reach the rocks of the southern buttress. The ascent is via moderately difficult rocks, leaving the "Suchi" to the right. After 120–150 m, enter a snow-ice couloir that leads to a 20-meter wall (the first critical section), which is climbed without a backpack. Two pitons are hammered into this wall. After the wall, move 30–50 m left and up across scree slopes under the "Bastion" to find a platform with a cairn, where a note from the first group to take this route in 1963 was found. From the cairn, move right across easy rocks to reach a broad snow-ice couloir. Cross it and exit onto the ridge on the right side. Follow the ridge for 30 m across easy rocks to reach a snow-ice saddle (with a cornices on the saddle). After crossing the saddle, bypass the "Bastion" on the right across heavily broken rocks. Then ascend 100–120 m up snow-covered rocks to reach a saddle between the "Bastion" and the First sentinel. Bypass the sentinel on the left and follow the ridge to the second sentinel (the second critical section). The 50-meter sentinel wall has a steepness of 80–90° with few holds. There is a small platform at the top for belaying (five pitons are hammered in at this section). Continue up the heavily broken ridge with numerous sentinels, which are climbed head-on:

• On the ridge, there is a second control cairn with a note from a 1952 group led by Master of Sports Kolomensky V.
• The "Zub" sentinel is climbed head-on via a crack with a plug - a [moderately difficult] section. Five pitons were hammered in during the ascent and descent of the "Zub" sentinel (descent on a rope while seated).

Fig. 40 205. Chanchakhi (4461 m) via the South Ridge (a combined route, M. Zvezdin, category 4A). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4-8 people) to the Tsey-Tbilisi pass with the initial bivouac on the upper plateau of the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier under the pass is described in the routes:

• 83
• 124 From the pass, descend first along simple rocks, then along a snowy slope, and through the bergschrund, exit to the upper snowy plateau of the Tbiliza glacier. Along the glacier, having passed a little to the left and down, turn left and, overcoming the bergschrund, exit to the right side of the wide ice-and-snow southwestern slope of the South Ridge of Chanchakhi peak. Along the steep slope, adhering to small right rocky islands, 400-500 m up to the South ice-and-snow ridge (possible rockfall, avalanches - piton belay). Here, turn left and along the ice-and-snow ridge (cornices) approach under the rocky ascent of the summit tower. Along a narrow rocky, above medium difficulty, vertical corner-chimney ("live" stones - piton belay) the ascent is 25-30 m to the wall. Further:
• first along steep 50-60-meter rocks of medium difficulty,
• then along simple rocks of the South Ridge - ascend to the summit of Chanchakhi.

Ascent via the Southeast Buttress and South Ridge

(combined route, category 4B difficulty) From the tourist base in the Tsey district, reach the upper branch of the Tsey Glacier under the saddle ridge between Mamison and Chanchakhi peaks. Traverse the glacier (closed crevasses) to approach the left side of the ridge connecting Mami-son and Chanchakhi peaks, col. From the glacier, overcome the bergschrund and ascend the steep snow-ice slope to the rocks of the counterfort descending from the left side. Then, keeping to the right side of the counterfort rocks (possible rockfall), ascend a steep snow-ice slope (ice axe and insurance) to the Tsey-Chanchakhi col (cornice). On the col, traverse 60–80 m to the right, then ascend the broad, steep southeast slope of Chanchakhi peak under numerous outcrops (possible rockfall and avalanches — R factor). Traverse left and up towards the rocks of the Southeast Buttress of the South Ridge of Chanchakhi. Overcome a glacial crevasse and ascend the steep ice slope (possible rockfall — piton insurance) to the rocks on the right side of the buttress. Further, on simple and moderately difficult broken rocks, with a 25-meter wall of average difficulty above, ascend in the middle part of the Southeast Buttress to the South Ridge. Do not descend; turn right instead. On the steep snow-ice South Ridge (ice axe and insurance), then on moderately difficult rocks and finally on a corner-chimney (loose rocks — piton insurance), overcome a wall. Further, on steep 50-meter rocks of average difficulty and then on simple rocks of the South Ridge, reach the summit of Chanchakhi. From the last bivouac on the plateau to the summit takes R2–R3 hours. Bivouac on the summit is possible. Descent is via the South Ridge. The total duration of the route is 3–4 days.

Fig. 13 Fig. 14

3. Ascent to the Herzog peak via the North-Eastern ridge — for the difficulty category (Fig. 13 and 14)

From Dombayskaya Polyana to Turiy Lake — bivouac. From Dombayskaya Polyana 3.5–4 hours. From the bivouac up the moraine, then along the Alibek glacier (the glacier is exposed, belay!) to the rocky gate between the rocks of the northern edge of Herzog and the rocks under the eastern slope of Jalovchat. Up the steep snow-ice slope: