INETAU (4038 m)

Ascent from the Constitution Glacier, route 1B cat. complexity (fig. 4). The INETAU peak is located in the northern spur extending from the 10 Years of Kazakh SSR peak and separating the Toguzak Glacier from the Constitution Glacier. It is a pronounced eminence on the ridge. From the Toguzak Glacier side, it appears as a sharp needle on a snowy base, while from the Constitution Glacier side, the summit tower rises amidst a jumble of rocky debris from the destroyed ridge. From the initial bivouac, conveniently set up on the right moraine of the Toguzak Glacier, cross the terminal moraines of the glacier towards the talus at the start of the ridge. Ascend the talus to the ridge. Cross the ridge to reach the right lateral moraine of the Constitution Glacier. Follow the moraine ridge to an isolated rock near the ridge, and from there, via a gully, exit onto the ridge to a gendarme composed of red rocks. The first control cairn is located on it. Bypass the next gendarme to the left on snow (ice is possible!). Subsequent gendarmes are bypassed on both sides. After them, cross a small couloir between the main ridge and a group of rocks to the right. Continue along the ridge of moderately difficult rocks upwards to a distinct gendarme. The second cairn is located here. Descend from it onto a snowy-icy saddle before a table-like gendarme and bypass it to the right. Then, ascend medium rocks and talus to a tower with a snowy belt. The ascent to it involves the following sections:

• medium rocks
• inclined slabs

Kairaktas (4020 m)

Ascent via the Eastern Ridge — cat. diff. 2A

The Kairaktas peak is located somewhat north of the Ozerny pass. The approach starts from the bivouac on the pass and continues along the moraine heaps made up of medium-sized fragments. The path leads to the eastern ridge of the peak and takes about an hour. The ascent goes along the heavily destroyed ridge with steep drops and a large depth of fall. The first and second gendarmes are bypassed, the third and fourth, with heights of 8–10 m, are overcome head-on. After the section with gendarmes, the route runs along the eastern ridge to the south-eastern ridge, which are connected by a small dip. Reaching the south-eastern ridge, one must successively bypass four gendarmes of slab-like structure, having the form of needles, on the right and left. The movement continues along heavily destroyed rocks and in places along snow. This section is recommended to be traversed in rope teams with alternate belays. After approximately 2 hours, there is an exit to the summit, which is crowned with a pico-shaped stone. This prompted the first ascenders to name the peak Kairaktas, which translates as — a peak with a protruding stone. To reach it, one needs to hack through a snow cornice. Descent is via the ascent route. The first group to reach the summit was on October 15, 1954, a group of instructors from the "Kok Bastau" alpine camp consisting of: A. Vorobyov, P. Mamyinov, R. Khonin under the guidance of A. Kolegov.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants: 4–6 people.

Fig. 36 There are no sites on this section. After a few meters of ascent from the place where the backpacks are pulled out, it is necessary to use the ladders again. Special attention should be paid to hammering in pitons: the rocks are brittle! Further, along steep slabs to the exfoliated rock in front of a large snowy shelf. To reach the shelf, move to the right into a steep ice gully. Climb 2 meters up along it and exit onto the shelf. Moving along the shelf to the left, continue moving up along sheer complex rocks, and then, traversing to the right, approach a steep (70°) narrow ice gully. Cross the gully at the point where a large rock protrudes in the middle, and move to the right narrow rocky islet separating the gully from the snowy slope. From this islet, ascend up the steep (60°) icy slope. For about six meters, the ascent involves chopping steps. The belay is piton. Move left from the piton - upwards in the direction of the beginning of the snow ridge's ascent. On the ridge, the belay is through an ice axe. To the left of the ridge, on the rocks, there is a good bivouac site. From the initial bivouac to here, it takes 12-13 hours of walking.

Here, an overnight stay is possible: there is water available in mid-summer. The ascent to the ridge begins after circumventing the rocks along the edge of the snow on the right side, in the lower part of the gendarme — via broken rocks. Proceed in the direction of the saddle between the gendarme and the second part of the ridge ascent. After reaching the saddle, move slightly to the left. Belay is via pitons; piton placement is necessary for belaying and for artificial anchors. Further along the ridge:

• monolithic rock sections are circumvented on the left
• via loose rocks — ascent to the summit of Жанатау. Descent from the summit towards the summit of Ленинградец is initially via rocks, then via a steep snowy section leading to a snow platform in front of the monolithic rock Зуб, rising before the second pass. Descend to the foot

The summit of Kara-Tas is located in the lateral ridge of the Novy spur, Zailiyskiy Alatau range. This ridge starts from the Jambul peak and runs in a north-eastern direction. To the north of the summit lies the Yuzhny TBU glacier, and to the south - a branch of the Shaklskiy glacier. The route begins from the moraine of the Yuzhny TBU glacier, heading in the direction and reaching the ridge at the saddle between the second and third gendarmes via a wide scree couloir or rock outcrops. A gendarme resembling a finger visible from the glacier can serve as a landmark; it remains on the right during ascent. The first cairn is built on the saddle. From the saddle, move towards the finger (third gendarme), which is bypassed on the right. The fourth gendarme is bypassed on the right along snowy rocks, for a distance of three rope lengths. The rocks are heavily damaged. Alternate belay is necessary. The next gendarmes (5, 6, and 7) are bypassed on the right without reaching the saddles. The rock "saw" is bypassed to the left, without reaching the saddles, followed by an ascent to the ridge along an internal angle (alternate belay). The large 8th gendarme, resembling a bastion, is ascended immediately to the left along moderately difficult rocks. The second cairn is built on the ridge after the eighth gendarme. Then, proceed along the ridge of the Eastern shoulder. Initially, there are rocks, followed by a small snowy plateau. Belay is necessary when reaching the plateau. The plateau transitions into a snowy ridge with a series of gendarmes that are bypassed. Simultaneous movement is permissible here. The ridge leads to a wide rocky ascent, 70–80 m high. Ascent to the rise:

• via scree couloirs and rocks, exiting onto a lateral ridge;
• then along it to the rise. Belay is alternate.

Karlytau 1B cat. via Komosomolsky Pass

Route Description.

The snow-ice dome of Karlytau peak is located in the Maloalmatinsky spur, somewhat south of the majestic pyramid of Peak Komosomola. Its snow-white cap is clearly visible from Almaty. Karlytau is situated between the passes:

• Komosomolsky (to the north)
• Manshuk Mametova (to the south). To the west, a snowy ridge connects it to the peak Geroev Panfilovtsev. To the east, towards the Left Talgar gorge, a ridge stretches from the peak, crowned by

Location, Approach Route, and Ascent History

The peak named after the youth newspaper "Leninskaya Smena" is located in the central ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau. Its western ridge descends to the well-known Ozerny pass, through which a tourist path leads to the shores of Lake Issyk-Kul (see the map of the Leninskaya Smena peak area). From Almaty Lake, the approach to the peak is made along a well-trodden path up the gorge, along the Ozerny River, which flows into the lake. The time it takes to approach from the lake to the confluence of the South-Eastern River and Ozerny River is about 4 hours. Further, the path goes to Ozerny pass along both the right and left banks of the Ozerny River:

• The approach to the peak is more convenient along the right (orographic) bank.
• The descent is along the left (orographic) bank. From the confluence of the rivers to the tongue of the glacier, flowing west from the northern ridge of the Leninskaya Smena peak, it takes another 1.5–2 hours. The most acceptable and convenient path to the summit is the ridge that branches off from the northern ridge and merges with it not far from the summit (see the map). It was along this ridge that the first ascenders took the path in 1956 (a group of climbers from the Kazakh club led by Kucherenko G.). A group of climbers from the Institute of Nuclear Physics of the Kazakh SSR Academy of Sciences, led by Saprykin V.D., climbed the same route on September 2, 1956, and this description was compiled based on that ascent.

I. Climbing category: — technical II. Climbing area: — Kirghizskiy Ala-Too III. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Izyiskatel' 4400 m from the North. IV. Proposed difficulty category — 2B V. Route characteristics: — height difference 670 m; complex section length 80 m; average steepness 40° VI. Pitons hammered: for belay — 4 ice screws. VII. Number of travel hours — 5; VIII. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants and their qualification: Leader: BOGOLYUBOV V.V. — 3rd sports category. Participants:

MOSCOW ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING FEDERATION

Report

On the ascent of the CSKA team named after Demchenko

To the summit Chudo (5100 m). Central Tien Shan, Western Kokshaal-Too

(41°2′41.03″ N. 77°29′33.94″ E) via the Western ridge. First ascent, presumably 2B category of difficulty. Zaryaev V.V. — Sharifullin R.F. 2015 Dedicated to Anastasia Shurtakova

Ascent Log.

1. Rock climbing category.
2. Terskey-Alatoo ridge, Tashtambektor gorge.
3. Panoramnaya peak, 3600 m, via the North-Eastern ridge.
4. Assumed category complexity 1B, first ascent.
5. Characteristics: height difference — ~600 m, average steepness — 30°.
6. Pitons driven for belay — none.
7. Departure and return date — July 26, 1977.
8. Total climbing hours — 3.5 hours.