Fig. 36

There are no sites on this section. After a few meters of ascent from the place where the backpacks are pulled out, it is necessary to use the ladders again. Special attention should be paid to hammering in pitons: the rocks are brittle!

Further, along steep slabs to the exfoliated rock in front of a large snowy shelf. To reach the shelf, move to the right into a steep ice gully. Climb 2 meters up along it and exit onto the shelf. Moving along the shelf to the left, continue moving up along sheer complex rocks, and then, traversing to the right, approach a steep (70°) narrow ice gully. Cross the gully at the point where a large rock protrudes in the middle, and move to the right narrow rocky islet separating the gully from the snowy slope.

From this islet, ascend up the steep (60°) icy slope.

For about six meters, the ascent involves chopping steps. The belay is piton.

Move left from the piton - upwards in the direction of the beginning of the snow ridge's ascent.

On the ridge, the belay is through an ice axe.

To the left of the ridge, on the rocks, there is a good bivouac site.

From the initial bivouac to here, it takes 12-13 hours of walking.

The next day begins with exiting onto the ridge and ascending upwards along the ascent. The steepness is 45-50°. About twenty meters before the steeply rising ice-covered rocks above the ridge, move to the right, traversing the icy slope in places in the direction of the lower part of the sheer rock exit. The belay is piton.

Having circumvented the steep rocky section with piton belay, ascend to the right - upwards, chopping steps on the steep icy slope (70°). After this section, approach the second rocky section and ascend straight up along the steep icy slopes between two rocky outcrops. After 30 meters, there is an exit onto the snow at the beginning of the second snowy ascent of the ridge.

The ascent continues along the snowy ridge, leading to the summit rocks, and along them - to the summit of Karakaursyn. From the overnight stay to the summit, it takes 3-4 hours of walking. Crampons are necessary for the entire section of the route traversed on this day.

The descent from the summit of Karakaursyn is towards the summit of an exfoliated rock. The ascent is possible only to the right along the sheer snowy ridge of Janatau with small sections of more destroyed rocks.

Traversing to the right:

• In places, there are icy sections.
• After 8-10 meters, there is an ascent upwards, then to the left.
• Further, there is a deep depression - a wide snowy area at the base of the wall, where the ridge of Janatau summit begins, and it is necessary to pull out the backpacks.

There are no sites on this section.