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Description of the ascent route to the summit of Shalbuzdag Main (4142 m) via the south wall, difficulty category 4A, Eastern Caucasus.

I. ASCENT REPORT (2nd ascent)

  1. Ascent class — rock climbing
  2. Ascent area — Eastern Caucasus, northern spurs of the Main Caucasian Range
  3. Peak — Shalbuzdag Main, 4142 m, via the south face
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 4A
  5. Height difference — 300 m, length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 65 m, average steepness — 63°
  6. Rock pitons hammered in — 9, chocks placed — 26, runner protection loops hung — 8
  7. Number of moving hours — 8
  8. Korenn A.V. 2nd sports category, leader Konovalov Yu.V. 2nd sports category
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Description of the ascent route to the unnamed peak 4007 m in the Shalib ridge in the Eastern Caucasus, category of difficulty 2B, combined route.

Climbing Passport

  1. Climbing category: combined
  2. Climbing region: 2.9 Eastern Caucasus
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. 4049 from the east and along the southern ridge (first ascent)
  4. Estimated difficulty category: 1B
  5. Route characteristics:
    • height difference: 600 m
    • average steepness: 25°
    • length of sections: R1–600 m, R2–400 m, R3–40 m
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Ascent to Bavaryurt peak (4126 m) via the 2nd buttress of the North-West face, grade 4A.

Bazaryurt, via the 2nd buttress of the NW wall Mamedov E.S. Eastern Caucasus 2.11.6

Passport

  1. Character of the route — combined
  2. Eastern Caucasus, YatukhDere, Shakhnabad, Kusarchay gorges
  3. Bazaryurt via the 2nd buttress of the NW wall
  4. Claimed category — 4A — first ascent
  5. Height difference — 865 m, length — 1600 m. Length of the sections of 4–5 cat. — 440 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 43°.
  6. Duration — 10 hours
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Ascent to the summit of Kyzylkaya Western (3675 m) via the North ridge, category of complexity 4A, rocky nature of the route.

Kyzylkaya Western, via the North Ridge Mamedov Z. S. East Caucasus 2.11.16 PASSPORT

  1. Route type — rock
  2. East Caucasus, Shahnabad and Kusarчай river gorge
  3. Kyzylkaya Western via the North Ridge
  4. Assumed 4A category of difficulty — first ascent
  5. Height difference — 825 m, length — 1195 m Length of grade 4 sections — 240 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 65°
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Ascent to Shahdagh Eastern via 3rd Bastion, category III-V, detailed route description and technical information.

Passport

  1. Character of the route — rocky
  2. Eastern Caucasus, Shakhnabad and Kusarчай river gorge
  3. Shahdag East via the 3rd bastion
  4. Category 5A difficulty — first ascent
  5. Elevation gain — 1225 m, length — 2435 m Length of category IV–V sections — 100 m V category difficulty — 235 m, V+–VI category difficulty — 30 m Average steepness of the main part of the route — 63°
  6. Hooks left on the route (not hammered out) — 2 pcs.
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Description of the traverse of Shah-Dag peak with ascent via the eastern counterfort, accomplished by a team of climbers in 1966, with route details and technical specifics.

DESCRIPTION

The route of traversing the Shah-Dag peak massif from east to southwest with ascent via the eastern counterfort, accomplished by a team of climbers from the Azerbaijan Council "DINAMO" during an expedition from October 30 to November 10, 1966. The Shah-Dag peak is located in the Lateral Ridge of the Eastern Caucasus within the territory of the Azerbaijan SSR and has an elevation of 4250 m (other sources indicate 4255 m). The main massif of the peak drops steeply to the south and southwest towards the wide left-bank terrace of the Shahnabad River (towards "Shah-Eylag") with steep walls, the lower part of which is a 400-600 m monolithic cliff. The upper part of the walls has a stepped structure, composed of individual 20-40 m monolithic blocks dissected by narrow couloirs and crevices, and merges into the massive ice-snow dome of the peak, with individual heavily destroyed ridges and rock ridges cutting into it. The slopes of the dome have a considerable steepness of 40-45° in the lower part and, gradually becoming less steep towards the top, form a snow-covered summit plateau of significant extent. The summit point is closer to the southern part of the plateau, at the beginning of the rocky ridge extending in the direction of the southern wall. To the east, the summit dome also drops with monolithic rocky cliffs, gradually becoming less steep in the northern part and transitioning into heavily destroyed, scree-covered eastern slopes of the ridge extending from the peak to the northeast. From the southeastern part of this slope, four parallel ridge-spurs of cuesta-like form extend eastward, with slopes dropping steeply to the south and significantly more gently to the north.

  • The highest, southernmost spur, forms the southeastern continuation of the southern wall of the massif with its cliffs.
  • The northern spur is the longest and divides into two branches, sharply turning to the north and south.
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First ascent of 4100 m peak on the western ridge of the Shahdag massif via the couloir on the northern wall, grade 3B.

2.11.23 21

Passport

  1. Class: First Ascent.
  2. Eastern Caucasus, Shahdag massif, from Sudur valley.
  3. Peak 4100 m, in the western ridge of Shahdag massif, via the couloir of the northern wall, combined.
  4. Difficulty category — 3B.
  5. Height difference — 950 m, length — about 1800 m, length of sections with III difficulty category — 500 m, IV difficulty category — 40 m, average steepness 30°, steepness of the main part of the route 40–55°.
  6. Pitons — 52, ice screws, cams — 0.
  7. Climbing hours — 9.
  8. No overnight stay.
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Traverse of Aragats peaks: South (3850 m), West (3978 m), Nameless (3800 m), North (4095 m), grade 2B, Lesser Caucasus.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — Traverse.
  2. Ascent area — Lesser Caucasus, Aragats massif.
  3. Peak, ascent route — Aragats, traverse of Aragats South (3850 m) – Aragats West (3978 m) – Aragats Nameless (3800 m) – Aragats North (4095 m) peaks.
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 2A.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m, average steepness — 35°.
  6. Number of pitons hammered for belay — 6 rock pitons.
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Description of the 4A category complexity route via the north wall of the Brothers Alakhanian peak in the Lesser Caucasus.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — rock.
  2. Ascent area, ridge — Lesser Caucasus, Zangezur Ridge.
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route — peak of brothers Alakhanyan, 3710 m, via the right couloir of the northern wall.
  4. Proposed category of difficulty — 4A.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m, length of sections with 5B–6 category of difficulty — 13 m, average steepness — 50°.
  6. Pitons hammered in: for belay — 41(0); rock — 11(0); ice — 18(0); chocks — 12(0).
  7. Number of travel hours — 9.
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Ascent to the summit of Jadlyk (4533 m) via Shto-West counterfort of the Western ridge, first ascent, category 4 difficulty, in 28 hours of climbing.

I. Technical difficulty category 2. Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge 3. Peak Dzhadlyk via the West counterfort of the Western ridge 4533. 4. Proposed — 4th category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 700 m, length — 1025 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 7° (3870–4350), including 6th category of difficulty — 85° (3870–3900) 90° (3930–3940), 90° (4140–4155), 85° (4170 — traverse 20 m) 6. Pitons hammered in: rock (65+5ˣ)/12 6/4

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