2.11.23 21
Passport
- Class: First Ascent.
- Eastern Caucasus, Shahdag massif, from Sudur valley.
- Peak 4100 m, in the western ridge of Shahdag massif, via the couloir of the northern wall, combined.
- Difficulty category — 3B.
- Height difference — 950 m, length — about 1800 m, length of sections with III difficulty category — 500 m, IV difficulty category — 40 m, average steepness 30°, steepness of the main part of the route 40–55°.
- Pitons — 52, ice screws, cams — 0.
- Climbing hours — 9.
- No overnight stay.
- Leader: Vladimir E. MESCHERYAKOV, Candidate Master of Sports.
Participants:
- Alexander A. KARYAKIN, 1st sports category.
- Alexander M. KHVASHCHENKO, 1st sports category.
- Andrey N. KRIYKIY, 1st sports category.
- Team coach: Yu.V. GORIN, Candidate Master of Sports, 1st sports category.
- Approach to the route, ascent, and descent — September 20, 1990.
- Azerbaijan Republican Alpine Club.
Western ridge of Shahdag massif. Northern wall.
Text from the map:
- Road to Baku-Rostov highway
- Sudur village
- Gil pass
- Mt. Yarudag 4116 m
- Mt. Epuraz 3925 m
- Yarudag pass
- Uytor-Vats river
- Shaita bivouac
- Elikh village
- Stone bridge
- Shahdag
- Shahdagsky pass
- Kursants pass
- Shahdag 4259 m
- 4100 m
- 4118 m
- 4095 m
- 4230 m
- 4125 m
Route descriptions:
- № 1. Peak 4100 m, 3B difficulty category, via the couloir of the Northern wall.
- № 2. Peak 4118 m, 3B difficulty category, via the right part of the northern slope.
- № 3. Peak 4095 m, 5A difficulty category, via the northwestern bastion of the northern wall.
Coach: Yu. GORIN. Yu.V. GARIN.
Route diagram
Peak 4100 m in the Western ridge of Shahdag massif (Eastern Caucasus).
- Ascent
- Descent Route 3B via the couloir of the northern wall. Climbing hours — 9. Ice screws — 52. Rockfall hazard after noon. Rockfall hazard sections: (R2, R3–R6). Leader: V.E. Mescheryakov. Coach: Yu.V. GORIN.
Route sections:
- Height 4100 m: 350 m, 20°, 1.
- Height 4050 m
- R7: 10 m, 70°, 5.
- R6: 150 m, 45°, 3.
- Height 3800 m
- R5: 20 m, 60°, 4.
- R4: 200 m, 45–50°, 3.
- Height 3600 m
- R3: 180 m, 40°, 3.
- Height 3500 m
- R2: 450 m, 25–30°, 2.
- Height 3250 m
- R1: 150 m, 25°, 2.
- Height 3200 m
- R0: 300 m, 15°, 1.
- Height 3150 m