86. Karaugom West via the South slope and the East ridge (combined route by M. Anufrikov, 3A category of difficulty, fig. 20, 21). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzanaga (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the West ridge of the Bivouacnaya peak is described in route 83. From the bivouac, cross the Karaugom plateau and approach (closed crevices) under the southern slope of the wide snow saddle in the middle of the Karaugom massif. From the plateau, reach the bergschrund along the snowy slope. Having overcome it along a snow bridge, ascend 400-500 m along the steep ice-snow slope along the left side of the long rocky spur under the center of the saddle (avalanches and rockfall are possible - piton belay) to the saddle of the massif (cornice). Here, turn left and along the steep 120-150-meter ice-snow slope (cornice - piton belay) of the East ridge, approach under the summit tower. Then, along the 200-250-meter frozen rocks of medium difficulty and the 60-80-meter snowy East ridge, ascend to the summit West Karaugom. From the initial bivouac, it takes 5-7 hours. Descent is done by the ascent route.

222. Lagai (4124 m) via the Northwest slope (K. Barov's combined route, category 4A). From the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4-8 people), ascend along the trail on the left bank of the Skazdon River. After passing the "Green Hill," climb the moraine that turns left. From the end of the moraine, traverse a wide scree slope to the left to reach a small plateau below the Northwest slopes of Lagai. Set up the initial bivouac on the plateau. The journey from the CSP of the Tsey region takes 4-5 hours. From the plateau (depart at 3:00 due to rockfall risk in the lower section of the route):

• Ascend a steep, potentially snow-covered scree slope in a wide couloir to reach three rock buttresses separated by narrow, steep snow and ice couloirs, to the right of the steep, rugged snow and ice slope of Lagai.
• From here, climb simple to moderately difficult rocks on the middle buttress ("loose rocks"), bypassing gendarmes on the left, to reach a platform on the left saddle.
• An alternative ascent to the saddle is possible via a couloir on the left, but it is more prone to rockfall. The journey from the initial bivouac takes 2-4 hours. From the saddle, ascend rocks of moderate difficulty, then a 200-220-meter snow and ice slope (avalanche and rockfall risk), to reach a col formed by ice falls from the glacier on the left and a rock belt wall on the right. From under the col:
• Climb 120-150 meters to the right and upwards on steep, slab-like, destroyed, and icy rocks of the belt wall, with moderate to above moderate difficulty ("loose rocks" - piton protection);

196. Peak Nikolayeva (3815 m) via the Eastern ridge from the North (combined route, category 2B difficulty, fig. 38). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4–12 people) to the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier with the initial bivouac in the hut of the Southern branch of the Tsey glacier is described in route 83. From the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier (closed crevasses):

• Ascend 300–350 m along a wide snow-ice couloir or along the rocks on its left side (there is a risk of rockfall in the couloir) to the saddle on the ridge connecting Peak Nikolayeva on the right and Khitsan on the left.
• From the hut — 3–5 hours. The further ascent route is described in route 194. Descent along the southern slope (see route 193). Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoriya, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.

195. Peak Nikolayeva (3815 m) via North Face (M. Anufrikov's combined route, Category III, Fig. 38). The path from the Tsей area's KSP (group of 4–8 people) to the North Branch of the Tsей Glacier with the initial bivouac in the hut of the South Branch of the Tsей Glacier is described in route 83. Cross the glacier (closed crevasses), passing under the northern slopes of Khitsan peak, and approach the right side of the three central rock spires on the icy slope of Peak Nikolayeva's North Face. From the glacier, cross the bergschrund and ascend 180–200 m up a steep ice-snow slope to the right of the central rock spires (piton belay). Then move left onto a rock shelf on the third spire. From the spire, ascend 140–150 m up a steep ice-snow slope (pitons belay) under the North rock walls of the peak. From here, move right and ascend an 8–10-meter snow-covered wall of moderate difficulty ("live" rocks - piton belay) onto a sloping ice-snow shelf. Continue traversing 100–120 m along the boundary between snow and rocks under the rock walls of the peak to the right and upwards. Then ascend a steep ice-snow slope (piton belay) to a shoulder plateau. The journey from the hut takes 5–6 hours. There's a cairn on the shoulder. From the shoulder, ascend directly up simple, broken rocks in an internal angle. Then move right and upwards along simple rocks on a short buttress and a shelf under an 8–10 m wall. Overcome the wall directly, climbing rocks of above-average difficulty (key point of the route - piton belay), and traverse a slab to reach an internal angle. Ascend rocks of moderate difficulty in the internal angle ("live" rocks) to a plateau on the right side of the buttress.

109. Songuty via the East Face, cat. 4B (Durnov, 1950)

From the Volga River overnight bivouac area, head towards the central couloir that leads to routes 5A and 5Б. (“Attention!” The couloir is not visible from the overnight bivouac area, and for visual reconnaissance, one needs to move to the left part of the upper plateau of Uilpatinsky bottom), move along the right part of the couloir to the rock island, from which turn left onto a ledge leading to a counterfort. 10 m up the несложным ledges of the counterfort to a snowy ridge 10–15 m long. From it, turn left along the ledges and walls under the black streaks forming a zigzag, clearly visible from below, to the next counterfort of the central ridge. Move up the rocks of the counterfort to a snowy saddle, from which a snowy couloir goes left and down. After the saddle, a short wall leads to a large ledge crossing the East Face of Songuty. Along the ledge 150–200 m to the right to a counterfort leading to the 10th tower. Move along the rocks on the left side of the counterfort; in the upper part of the rocks, a 20-meter internal corner leads to a snowy slope (20–30 m), approaching the 10th tower. One can avoid going to the tower and instead move right along a grassy section to the saddle between the 10th tower and the summit. On the saddle, there is a platform for a tent. From the saddle to the summit, it's 80–100 m along the ridge of cat. II–III complexity, with overcoming the “pog” — a smooth 5-meter rock ascent and ridge. On the “nose” of the “pog,” a piton is hammered for passage and belay.

(combined route, category 4B difficulty) The path from the KSP of the Tsey district or from the village of Dzinaga to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of Bivouachnaya peak. From the platforms, approach the Northwestern wall of Songuti peak via the Eastern branch of the Karaugom plateau (beware of hidden crevasses). From the plateau, cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge and ascend a steep 150–200-meter snowslope to rocky outcrops in the direction of the saddle between the summit pinnacles of Songuti (avalanche risk, rock and piton belay). Continue as follows: ascend snow-covered rocky outcrops of medium and above-medium difficulty, alternating with steep snowslopes (rockfall risk — piton belay) to the rocky ascent of the summit pinnacles. From here, ascend a steep, diagonal snowslope of the couloir 200 m up and to the right (piton belay). Then, ascend snow-covered rocks of medium and above-medium difficulty on the wall to the saddle between the pinnacles. Bivouac on the saddle platform. 10–14 hours from the initial bivouac. Continue with the ascent to Songuti peak. Descent via the ascent route or down the Southwestern ridge with rappels.

Уилпата, 2-й к.с. По северо-западному контрфорсу Южного гребня, 55

From the Vilpata bivouacs (departure at 3:00–4:00 at night due to rockfall in the couloir) across the snowy plateau of the North Branch:

• Go around a long ridge descending to the North Branch to the right of the counterforts of the Vilpata South Ridge on the left.
• Turn right and ascend along a gentle snowy slope of a wide couloir between the bases of the counterforts of the South Ridge on the left and the long ridge on the right.
• Having passed the base of the Second counterfort of the South Ridge, turn left and approach the right side of a narrow snowy couloir between the Second and

Ascent Log

1. Technical class
2. Caucasus, Tsey district
3. Chanchakhi (4450 m) via the Left Bastion of the North Face
4. Difficulty category — 5B, combined, second ascent
5. Height difference — 840 m length of sections with 5B difficulty category — 447 m, including 6th category — 30 m, average steepness 65°, with main sections at 85°
6. Pitons driven

   	rock	bolted	chocks	ice

Ascent Passport

1. Rock climbing category.
2. Caucasus, Bokovoy Range, Arkhon massif.
3. Arkhon Severny (3571 m); from the West via the North-East ridge.
4. Proposed — 2A category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 500 m. Length about 1 km. Average slope on the route is about 30°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock, chocks. 5/0 7/0 Left on the route: rock – 2 (for descent)

Approach Description

From the confluence of the Zaki and Zrug rivers along the dirt road that runs along the Zrug River to the ruins of the church. About 20 km. A kilometer upstream, the river splits into two tributaries:

• Follow the right tributary eragrafically for 1.5 hours to the kosh.
• Then, head right along the stream (eragrafically, the left side of the gorge).
• Enter a small cirque formed by two ridges of p. Skryabina. Bivouac is possible. From the church, it takes 4–4.5 hours.

Route Description

P. Skryabina via the North Ridge, category III difficulty. From the bivouac, head right onto the ridge. Then, along the ridge for 250–300 m (R0–R1), category I difficulty. After that, the ridge turns into a mountain slope with minor ascents (R1–R2), 100 m, category II difficulty.