1. Central Caucasus; Ullukhurzuk gorge; section according to the classification table "from Chiperazaau pass to Gumači summit"
2. Name of the peak: Kyukyurtlyu-Kolbashi (4639 m), name of the route: via the right part of the center of the West Face
3. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
4. Nature of the route: combined
5. Height difference of the route: 890 m (by altimeter); including the wall section: 580 m. Route length: 1330 m. Length of sections:
   • V category of difficulty – 100 m.
   • VI category of difficulty – 605 m. Average steepness:

316. Lederisht via the South Ridge (the route is combined, category of difficulty 1B, fig. 32, 43). From the Nakra village cross the eponymous river and ascend the trail on the right side of the gorge until the third, large stream of the Lederisht River flowing from the right slope of the gorge. From Nkra village 3–4 hours. Here, turn right and follow the trail on the right bank of Lederisht, then Leyarag, further along the right-bank moraine to the site at its end. From the moraine, on the right side of the Leyarag glacier (ice seracs, avalanches, falling stones), reach the upper snow plateau. From the plateau, via moderately difficult rocks (gullies) of the counterfort or further left, via a steep ice-snow slope, bypass the icefall descending from the Kvish Pass and above it, on the

318. Leyrag via the North Face (combined route, L. Kensitsky, category 3B difficulty, fig. 32, 43). From the moraine (point 316) follow the Leyrag Glacier to the foot of the central part of Leyrag's North Face. From the glacier, cross the bergschrund and ascend an osypnoy (scree) couloir, then ascend easy snow-covered rocks of a ridge below the wall of the Lower Rock Belt. Climb a 15–20-meter wall of moderate difficulty (pitons) up to a slanting snowy terrace. Traverse the terrace (loose stones) rightwards to a rocky ridge. From it, climb up and right along the edge of ice and rocks.

319. Leyrag via the Western Ridge (combined route, Suprunov's category, beyond category, fig. 32, 43).

To the right of the Leyrag glacier (m. 316) upwards along the northern slopes of the Nameless Peak to the lowering in the Western ridge of Leyrag peak — Alpinist pass. Here, turn right and, crossing the bergschrund, ascend the steep snow-ice slope or, from the left, via the talus and easy rocks to the Alpinist pass. Bivouac. From Nakra settlement 5–7 hours. At the pass, turn left and move onto the rocks of the Western ridge of Leyrag peak. Via simple 200-meter rocks of the Western ridge, overcoming three small gendarmeries head-on (protection), reach a small plateau with a pond.

279. Mazeri Zapadnaya via North Ridge (combined route, V. Staritskiy, cat. 4A, Fig. 32, 40). From Okhotnichye Ploshchadki (point 258) cross Ushbinsky Glacier to the right and approach the left side of the base of the North Ridge of Mazeri Zapadnaya peak via its southern branch. From the glacier, ascend a snow-ice slope with a bergschrund in the middle part, then traverse simple rocks on the left side to reach the North Ridge. From there, ascend rocks of medium difficulty, partially severely damaged, along the North Ridge. Continue along the snow-ice ridge - slope to a rocky outcrop. Ascend steep rocks of medium difficulty with two challenging wall sections to a small snow slope. Traverse the slope to the right and ascend to a platform via simple and medium-difficulty rocks along the ridge. Bivouac. From Okhotnichye Ploshchadki, 6-8 hours. From the platform, ascend 100-120 m along the ice-snow ridge, then 120-150 m along rocks of medium difficulty, and further along steep, snow-covered rocks (100-120 m) with difficulty above medium and 3-5-meter wall sections along the North Ridge to reach the platform of the Big Gendarme. The Gendarme can be bypassed:

• to the right, traversing a couloir (chimney). From here, ascend 80-100 m along simple, damaged, and snow-covered rocks on the left side of the West Ridge to reach the summit of Mazeri Zapadnaya. From the bivouac, 6-8 hours. Fig. 40.

277. Mazeri East via East Ridge (a combined route, I. Solodueva, cat. 5A, fig. 32, 40). From Okhotnichye Ploshchadki (point 258), cross Ushbinsky Glacier to the right (closed crevasses) and ascend its southeastern branch to Mazeri Pass, located between the wall of South Ushba and the first pinnacle of Mazeri East Ridge. From the glacier, bypassing the bergschrund on the right, ascend a steep snow-firn slope (falling rocks from Ushba walls) and steep moderate rocks to Mazeri Pass. For the ascent path to Mazeri Pass from Gulsky Glacier, see point 256. From the pass, ascend easy rocks of the East Ridge to the first pinnacle (cairn). Bypass the second pinnacle on the left via crumbling ledges, then reach a notch. From the notch, ascend steep easy and moderate rocks of the East Ridge with a 3-4-meter difficult wall to the third pinnacle, from where a 25-30 m rappel descends to a col beneath the fourth pinnacle. Overcome the fourth pinnacle, and then the fifth ("Tower") directly via easy and moderate snow-covered rocks of the East Ridge with a 30-40 m rappel to a col area (cornice). Continue along the East Ridge:

• a small snow-covered seventh pinnacle (cornices);
• descend from the ridge to the left and traverse via crumbling rocks of moderate and above-moderate difficulty,
• crossing snowy-ice gullies,
• ascend a steep snowy slope to a snowy notch of the East Ridge of the seventh pinnacle with "Mazeri Gates". From the notch:

128

Brief Description of the Route

From the Adyl-su alpine camp, descend along the road to the confluence of the Kuriu River and the Baksan River. Then, ascend into the Kuriu gorge to the left (in the direction of travel) of the waterfall. Next, follow the trail to the cow shed on the moraine ridge. After passing the cow shed, proceed along the moraine to the tongue of the Kuriu glacier. Traverse the glacier, staying on the right-hand side, to the rocky shoulder below the peak MNR Severnaia. Set up a bivouac on the shoulder. The journey from the Baksan River takes 5-6 hours. From the shoulder, ascend along the glacier to a wide couloir between MNR Pikhnaya and MNR Tsentralnaya. Climb the couloir, bypassing an icy rocky outcrop on the left, and ascend 100 m to a col on a long ridge. From the col, ascend upwards and to the right along a pronounced internal angle for 60 m. Then, traverse 60 m to the right along ledges below overhanging "rusty" rocks. Continue upwards and to the left for 80 m along a wall and a chimney, exiting onto the southern ridge of the peak MNR Tsentralnaya. Ascend along the sharp ridge (the gandari can be bypassed on the left via ledges) and broken rocks to below the summit tower. Below the summit tower, descend 10 m to the left into a depression and ascend along an internal angle to the western ridge of the peak MNR Tsentralnaya. Continue along easy rocks and ledges on the ridge for 200 m to reach the summit of MNR Tsentralnaya. The journey from the initial bivouac takes 8-10 hours. Descend from the summit along the western ridge to a col between MNR Tsentralnaya and MNR Dro-Zapadnaya, and then down a wide couloir onto the Kuriu glacier plateau. Special equipment for 4 people:

1. Main rope 2 × 40 m.
2. Rock hammers — 2 pcs.
3. Carabiners — 8 pcs.
4. Rock pitons — 8 pcs.
5. Auxiliary cord — 5 m.

Report

On the ascent of Peak Shchurovsky via the West face (through the "Gendarme" "Surkov")

Central Council of the DSO "Avangard"

Kiev — 1967

Data on team members