Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, 2.8, Komidon river gorge
3. Peak, route: V. BARZOND-TSAGVERI (3361 m), Eastern ridge
4. Expected difficulty category: 3B category, first ascent
5. Route description: elevation gain — 360 m route length — 760 m section lengths:
   • 3rd category — 40 m

Ascent Passport

1. Rock class.
2. Caucasus, Rocky ridge, Kionsky massif.
3. Barzond – Tsagveri East (3361 m) – Central (3350 m) – West (3337 m), traverse.
4. Assumed – 3B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation difference: 700 m. Length about 3 km. Average slope on the route is about 30°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock 8/0, chocks 10/0, ice 0/0, bolted 0/0. Left on the route (rappel loops): rock – 6; chocks – 0.
7. Team's travel hours – 10 h, days – 1.
8. Overnight stay: under the route, on the southern slopes – comfortable.
9. Leader: Egorin Sergey Vladimirovich – CMS.

Ascent passport.

1. Rock class.
2. Caucasus, Skalisty Range, Kionsky massif, section in KMGV 2.7.
3. Barzond-Tsagveri West (3337 m) — Central (3350 m) traverse.
4. 1B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation difference: 700 m. Length about 2 km. Average steepness on the route is about 30°.
6. Hammered in hooks: rock 2/0, закладок 4/0, ice 0/0, bolted 0/0. Left on the route rock — 0; закладок — 0.
7. Team's walking hours — 8, days — 1.

Burdzhula

The nodal summit of the Main ridge, Burdzhula (4364 m) stands out sharply against the background of the surrounding low peaks. It is located in the south-western corner of the Western branch of the Karaugom plateau, between the Anufrikov Peak to the east and Saualhayne to the north-west. At the end of the North ridge - a spur of Burdzhula stands a rocky tower of the Nogkau summit. 139. Burdzhula via the North ridge, Category III complexity (V. Lubenets, V. Radel, August 4, 1946) The path from the CSP of the Tsey district or from the village of Dzinaga (a group of 4-12 people) to the initial bivouac on the middle plateau of the Western branch of the Karaugom plateau, under the eastern slopes of Burdzhula, is described in route 83. From the initial bivouac, approach the first lower col on the left of the North ridge of Burdzhula

Burevestnik-Karaugomsky

Burevestnik-Karaugomsky (3900 m) is located in the Main ridge between the Bokos massif to the west and Bubis peak (behind the Central and Eastern col of Shovi-Karaugomsky pass) to the east. Burevestnik-Karaugomsky rises 120–150 m above the Karaugom plateau. On July 30, 1953, V. Tsirkunov and R. Markelov ascended to the summit via the only existing route. 128. Burevestnik-Karaugomsky via the Western ridge (combined route, 1B category of difficulty, fig. 29). The path from the KSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4-12 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of the Bivouachnaya peak or on the Central branch of the Karaugom plateau directly under the summit is described in route 83. From the initial bivouac (closed crevasses) along the central branch of the plateau, approach the snowy slope of the wide col connecting the western ridge of Burevestnik-Karaugomsky peak to the left and Bokos to the right. From the plateau, approach the bergschrund along the snowy slope and, overcoming it via a snow bridge, ascend the steep 60–80-meter snowy slope (insurance) to the left side of the col (caution - cornice). On the col, turn left and along the wide snowy, occasionally sharp (cornices) Western ridge, then along a small simple destroyed rocky ascent and again along the snowy ridge (cornice) ascend to the summit of Burevestnik-Karaugomsky. From the plateau - 2-3 hours. Descent is via the ascent route. Duration of the route is 2 days. Source: Naumov A.F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976. BU­RE­VE­STNIK-KA­RA­UGO­M­SKY

Vils

The Vils peak (3861 m) is located in the northeastern part of the Kalper ridge, between Shulgina peak and Passionaria summit. Above the Skazdona valley, Vils rises with steep rocky slopes and walls. In the Hissar gorge, a simple South ridge descends from the peak, separating the Vils glacier to the east from Passionaria to the west. Under the southwestern slopes of Vils lies a small hanging glacier, Western Passionaria. The following ridges have no routes to the peak yet:

• North ridge
• Southwest ridge

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF VOENNYKH RAZVEDCHIKOV VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE, CATEGORY 3B DIFFICULTY, BY THE TEAM OF THE MINISTRY OF DEFENSE OF THE RUSSIAN FEDERATION ON AUGUST 25, 2018

I. Ascent Passport

Description of the ascent route to the summit Zaramag, 4221 m, from the south, via the left couloir. Approximately 2B category of difficulty.

From the lower Zaramag camps in the Zaramag gorge, head towards the glacier descending from Mt. Zaramag. Cross the stream and river via a small bridge and ascend right-upwards along the trail in the direction of the ridge moraines. Approach the left moraine and ascend it. Traverse across the scree to the right (in the direction of travel) moraine. Follow it until the reddish rocks and, bypassing them on the right, continue upwards to the upper camps. The journey from the lower camps to the upper ones takes around 2 hours. From the upper camps, head left upwards, traversing under the slopes of the Adai-Khokh massif to avoid the conical moraine. Reach the Zaramag glacier. The journey from the upper camps takes 30–40 minutes. While crossing the glacier, move left towards the ridge with Mt. Zaramag, visible against the skyline (1.5–2 hours). Bypass the ridge on the left and head towards the rocky white-yellow "island", leaving the entire Mt. Zaramag massif on the right (in the direction of travel). (Fig. 1) Ascend the snowy-icy slope (about 45°) to the right-upwards, 4–5 ropes. CAUTION! Crevasses possible! Continue in the direction of the steep, snowy-icy, even couloir between the gendarme on the ridge leading to Mt. VTsSPS and Mt. Zaramag. The couloir's steepness is 30–35°, and in its upper part, 40–45°. The extent is 8–10 ropes. The couloir is visible from bottom to top. In the middle of its upper part, a rocky "island" is visible. There may be ice in the upper part of the couloir. Travel in crampons or with piton protection. (Fig. 2)

PASSPORT

Ascent to peak Kalper via the Northeast Edge.

1. Category of ascent: Combined
2. Area of ascent: Tsey, Kalper ridge
3. Summit: Kalper, 3800 m, route via Northeast Edge
4. Estimated category difficulty: 5A–4B
5. Route characteristics: height difference –1100 m, length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty –250 m, average steepness – 45°
6. Pitons used: for belay – 23, for artificial holds – 8, including rock pitons – 29, ice screws – 2.
7. Duration: 20 hours
8. Number of bivouacs: 2, with available tent sites.

REPORT

on the ascent to Mt. "Dzhailyk" (4533 m) via the Southwest Counterfort of the Western Ridge by the Dzhailyk Alpine Camp team (first ascent) Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich 1983 Alpine Camp "Dzhailyk" 360 000 Nalchik, P.O. Box 47 Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich 141 400 Moscow Region, Khimki, Aptechnaya St., 6, apt. 17 Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich