Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technical 2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: 60 let Velikoy Oktyabr'skoy Sotsialisticheskoy Revolyutsii (5006) via W buttress. 4. Expected difficulty category — 5B 5. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 900 m, average steepness — 75°, length of complex section 5–6 cat. diff. 620 m 6. Pitons hammered: rock 143, ice 25, bolt 0, of which for creating artificial holds — 15 7. Number of climbing hours — 44 8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: 1. Sitting bivouac

REPORT

on the ascent to the peak "60 лет Октябрьской революции" via the north-eastern edge (second ascent) 4Б cat. diff., accomplished by the group of Kyrgyz RS DSO "Spartak" Frunze, 1978.

General view of the route

BRIEF EXPLANATION OF THE TABLE

Approach from the Baitor camp to the route. The route follows a not clearly defined broad counterfort. Passable ice slope 45°, 80 m. Exit into a narrow couloir, which leads to a ledge in front of a monolithic rock wall. We move left along a snow-ice slope with step cutting, piton belay. Further, two ropes of difficult rock directly upwards, rocks are heavily destroyed. Control cairn on the ledge. From the ledge upwards along difficult rocks, three ropes. Further 20 m of easy rocks, exit onto the ridge. At 20:00, we stop for the night on a rock ledge. Control cairn. Departure from the bivouac at 8:00. Along an ice slope with rock outcrops, we exit onto the main ridge. Along easy rocks, we reach a saddle. Further, one rope of snow-ice slope, one rope of rock ascent, and the ridge continues with easy rocks, steepness up to 40°. Along it, we exit onto the summit. Descent towards the Baitor pass, further down the icefall onto the Baitor glacier and down to the camp.

Appendix 2

Team Championship of CS DSO "TRUD" 1969 in Alpinism Class of High-Altitude Technical Ascents REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF THE NORTH-WESTERN COUNTERFORCE OF PIK ALBATROS — ROUTE 5A cat. diff. (Tien Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, height 4740 m) Team of MGS DSO "Trud" July 18-20, 1969 Moscow, 1969

I. GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THE REGION AND SPORTS CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT OBJECT.

Pik Albatros (eastern peak — 4800 m, western — 4740 m) is located in the axial part of the Terskey-Ala-Too ridge and closes the Kок-bor gorge (55 km south of Przhevalsk). The peak is located in the upper reaches of the right tributary of the Kокbor River, which is a right tributary of the Karakol River.

PASSPORT

1. Class — traverses
2. Central Tien-Shan, Karakol gorge
3. Traverse of Peak Blyukhera (4720 m) — Peak Karbysheva (4700 m) with ascent through the center of the bastion
4. Proposed — 5B cat. diff., 2nd passage variant
5. Height difference: 700 m, length — 1370 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 500 m. Average steepness of main sections 62° /14650-43001 Of which 6 cat. diff. //,-°/
6. Pitons driven:

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, 7.10
2. Object — Jigit peak, 5170 m, via the "sickle" of the northern wall (V. Penchuk, 1973)
3. Complexity category — 5B
4. Route character — combined (actually — ice and snow)
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1270 m route length — 1250 m (wall section) + 550 m (ridge section) length of sections with 5th category of complexity — 1050 m average steepness of the wall section — 52°

RSFSR Climbing Championship

First Ascent Category 1984

Report

on the ascent of Peak Dzhigit 5170 m via the right part of the North face first ascent team from the Krasnoyarsk Regional Sports Committee Team Leader: Antipin S. M. Coach: Sereda V. A. Gordeev V. I. Mozharov N. P.

II category

Technical category I 2. Terskey Ala-Too, Karakol gorge 3. Peak Jigit via the right part of the North face 4. Proposed — 6 cat., first ascent 5. Height difference from the bergschrund 1070 m, total route length 1125 m, length of sections with 5–6 cat. 705 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 75° 6. Pitons driven: | rock | bolt | nuts | ice |

PASSPORT

1. Technical category
2. Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge
3. Peak "Dzhigit", via the north face — 5B category
4. Route by A.G. Ryabukhin, climbed in 1965
5. Height difference: 998 m, length — 1177 m. Length of sections with 5 category difficulty — 397 m. Average steepness of sections — 60°
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Nuts | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :-: |

Ascent Log

1. Kyrgyzstan, Tian Shan, Teskey Ala-Too, category "7.10.(41)" according to the classification table
2. Peak name: Jigit (5170 m), route name: via the north face (Ryabukhin, 65)
3. Proposed category: 6A
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 1170 m (by altimeter); including wall section: 970 m. Route length: 1292 m. Length of sections: category V — 249 m, category VI — 185 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 72°, entire route — 68°.
6. Pitons left on the route:

но­сти 30–35 м straight up. Да­лее 80 м вверх по кру­тым ска­лам сред­ней труд­но­сти Во­сточ­но­го ре­бра and along a 20-meter vertical difficult chimney to ascend to a slanting shelf. Along the shelf, traverse under the wall to the right to a vertical cleft. Up a difficult 20-meter cleft in the wall (the key point of the route) to ascend to a slanting shelf. From the shelf, along icy rocks 25 m up to a rocky site on the Во­сточ­но­го ре­бра. From the site, 250–300 m up and to the right along a snowy ridge, then along the slope. Then, traverse up and to the right through an icy-snowy couloir and move to the right onto rocky shelves. From the shelves, 1215 m:

• up and to the right along moderately difficult, разру­шен­ным ска­лам,