Approved by Climbing and Tactics Committee, Protocol #3 dated March 15, 1961 Complexity category: 3A+1

Route Description to the Summit of VSEVOBUCH

The path from the "Talgar" camp goes up the gorge, through the Zelyonaya Polyana and the Burovoy Pass. It takes 7 hours to walk from the camp to the foot of the Burovoy Pass. The ascent to the pass goes along a couloir. After the pass, one should bypass the TUVVO peak from the right and descend to the southeastern branch of the Korzhenevsky Glacier. The route goes through snow and talus. There is a platform convenient for a bivouac at the lower part of the moraine. The night stay is organized here. From the bivouac site, cross the glacier and reach the foot of the VSEVOBUCH peak in 30–50 minutes. It is necessary to move across the glacier in rope teams (due to crevasses along the way). The ascent to the summit starts along a firn slope with a steepness of up to 35–40°, and a length of about 150 m. Then the slope steepness increases to 60–70° and continues for up to 70 m. After this section, the slope gradually becomes less steep, down to 35–40°. Next, one needs to reach a rocky outcrop (see diagram) via a steep ice slope with a steepness of up to 60°. Movement is done with alternate belay using the front teeth of crampons. Four ice screws were driven in up to the first rocky outcrop where the first control cairn is built. The further path goes along a firn-ice slope, about 100 m long, with a steepness of up to 30–40°, with belay using ice screws and rock outcrops. While ascending the slope, move to the right side of the ridge, before a clearly visible gendarme. Then continue ascending along the ice slope with a steepness of up to 40°, along the rocky ridge, leaving it on the left. Belay is done using ice screws.

Route Description

The Seven Spires of Tuyuk-Su are located in the Malo-Almatinsky spur and stretch from northeast to southwest. Each Spire has its unique shape:

• The first and second resemble the back of a two-humped camel
• The seventh resembles a fang in its outlines Almost all of them have ridges of rocks descending to the south. The traverse of Tuyuk-Su Spires begins with an approach to the Tuyuk-Su glaciers and Tuyuk-Su Spires under the eponymous pass. The initial bivouac is on the black moraine opposite the Igla Tuyuk-Su pass. The ascent to the pass should start early on a snow-ice slope with an increasing steepness up to 55°. Insurance is provided through an ice axe, and when there are outcrops, ice screws are used. Crevices are overcome using snow bridges with careful insurance. Due to possible rockfalls, one should proceed along the middle. The traverse begins with the seventh Spire on heavily destroyed rocks of medium difficulty. Descent is made along the ascent path, and then towards the sixth Spire, which is a 30-meter pyramid with a smooth red wall. The ascent up it is complicated:
• There are few footholds;

Fig. 3a

MAP — DIAGRAM OF THE CLIMBING AREA

Brief description of the approach to the route

The approach to the start of the first ascent route from the Talgar alp camp is along the trail along the Sr. Talgar River to the Shumikhinsky overnight stay, located at the foot of v. Karaulchita (2 h 30 min); then cross to the left (orographic) bank of the river and along the trail approach the "Tekegrad" overnight stay (1 h 15 min). From the "Tekegrad" bivouac, the path goes along the moraine of the South TEU glacier in the SW direction. 400–500 m before the glacier tongue, turn in the southern direction, cross the lateral moraine of the glacier towards the 70-meter tower, which ends the NE buttress of v. Karatash. The approach from "Tekegrad" to the start of the route takes 25–30 min.

Brief explanation for the route table

At the foot of the ice slope, it is necessary to rope up and move vertically upwards to the beginning of the characteristic internal corner, using stones frozen in the ice, sometimes with step cutting. Climbing the inner corner (section R1–R2) is quite difficult:

• rocks are fragile;
• in some places 2–3 m wall;

82

Orography of the Upper Reaches of the Uzun-Kargaly River Basin

(Jasil-kul Glacier) The Jasil-kul glacier is located in the western part of the Zailiyskiy Alatau ridge, in the upper reaches of the Uzun-Kargaly river. Its length is about two kilometers, and it is oriented from north to south. At the glacier tongue:

• a long lake stretches across the moraine,
• the glacier tongue descends steeply towards the lake. In the depths of the cirque, the "Uzlovaya" peak rises, from which the Tasso-Kemin ridge extends southwest. In 1940-1941, alpinists from Kyrgyzstan first visited this area and summited several peaks:
• Tumannaya
• Aszhaluu
• Druzhby

Kazakh Mountaineers and Tourists Club

1962 Alma-Ata

Description

Ascent to Peak Komsomola (4376 m) via the Northwest Ridge It is advisable to organize an overnight stay at the moraine of Bогдановича glacier, at the foot of the western ridge of v. Komsomol. From the bivouac, the path goes along the snow-covered scree to the left of the western ridge of Komsomol towards the saddle between the peaks Fizzkulturnik and Komsomol. When ascending, stay on the left side. On the saddle, there is a control cairn. After the saddle, the 1st small gendarme is bypassed on the right along easy rocks, after which we approach the base of a rock wall 6–7 m high, blocking the ridge. The rocks are steep, in some places overhanging (on the lower part, there are ice walls 60–70° on the right and left). The wall is overcome on the right side by complex climbing with piton belay to the left and upwards, belaying through ice screws. A 40 m rope is required to bypass the wall on the ice.

Peak Konstitutsii Kazakhstana (4709 m)

Traverse from northwest to southeast, route 4A cat. difficulty (Fig. 1). The summit named Konstitutsii Kazakhstana is located in the main ridge of Zailiysky Alatau, in the immediate vicinity of the northward spur that separates the Dmitrieva and Konstitutsii glaciers and is also named Konstitutsii. The traverse route begins from the initial bivouac on the right-bank moraine of the Konstitutsii glacier. From the bivouac, cross the glacier (cautiously: crevasses!) towards the northwest ridge of Peak Konstitutsii. When ascending the ridge, follow the western edge as the slope is quite steep and avalanche-prone (45°). There are areas with flow ice. In the middle part of the edge, bypass a large bergschrund with step-cutting and thorough belaying. The steepness here is 60–65°. Further, the edge rises steeply. At the end of the season, it becomes entirely icy. Overcoming the edge requires 7–8 ice screws for belaying. The exit to the ridge is uncomplicated. On the first gendarme, there's a control cairn. The total length of the ridge is about three kilometers, with steepness in some areas reaching 50–60°. To the south, there are overhanging cornices. The ridge has many small drops and two dips. Descend into the first dip, after passing the second gendarme on the left side, via the slabs. The ascent from the dip is difficult and requires thorough belaying. Initially, it goes along a snowy slope with a steepness of up to 55°, then the slope becomes icy, with a steepness of up to 60°. The ascent length is 100–120 m. Further, the ridge becomes somewhat gentler, very narrow, with steep slopes on both sides. This section of the ridge should be traversed very cautiously, walking along the ridge crest for 150–170 m. Some sections are traversed in a "penguin-like" manner.

Route Description

Peak Kosmodemyanskaya is located in the western branch of the Malo-Almatinsky ridge, which is a watershed of the Malaya and Bolshaya Almatinka rivers. Ridges stretch from it to the northeast, northwest, and south. On the northeastern side, a small eponymous glacier descends from its slopes. The initial bivouac is organized on the platforms among the ancient moraine ramparts of the Molodezhny glacier. Then:

• Go to the left lateral moraine of the Tuyuk-Su glacier and along it — to the Kosmodemyanskaya glacier.
• Ascend to the upper snow plateau.
• Move along the ridge between the first and second gendarmes to the very summit. From the saddle:
• Ascend along the large talus to the right rib of the second gendarme.

North­ern Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau

Peak Manshuk Mametova via the North Face

25 category of difficulty

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — North­ern Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloye Almatinskoye gorge.
2. Name of the peak, its height, name of the route: Peak Manshuk Mametova via the north face.
3. Proposed: 2B cat. diff.
4. Character of the route: combined
5. Height difference of the route: 350 m

Passport

Ascent to the "Bezымянная" peak via the southwest ridge

1. Class of ascent — technical.
2. Area of ascent — Caucasus, Bezengi area, southwest spur of Dykh-Tau (Fig. 1).
3. "Bezымянная" peak 4050 m, in the spur of Dykh-Tau (Fig. 2).
4. Proposed category — 3.
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1300 m; b) route length — 900–1100 m of snow-ice slope; c) average steepness — 35–45°.