1012

ASCENT REPORT

1. Climbing type: rock climbing.
2. Climbing area: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, from Kardyvai mountain area to Marukh pass.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: VELINGRAD peak, 3110 m, via the central northwest spur.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 3B category.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 310 m, average steepness — 70°,

product under the start of the route v. 3150 (kel)

Peak 3226.0 (Dimitrov-100, Taulan). Route: via the western couloir and northern ridge. Category: 3A (combined). Leader: V. Babkin Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Orlenok gully, Karajash mountain massif. Section in KMGV — 2.1. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the climbing route to peak 3226.0 (Dimitrov-100, Taulan) "Via the western couloir and northern ridge. Category: 3A (combined)" at the year-round alpine event: "Championship and primacy of NP 'Club of Northern Travels 'Sauk-Pai' 2012 (class 'First ascents')". Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic. Mountain country: Western Caucasus. Valley: Orlenok gully. Ridge: Karajash mountain massif. Peak: 3226.0 (Dimitrov-100, Taulan). Route: via the western couloir and northern ridge, 3A category (combined). Difficulty level: 3A category (combined) (approximately). Prepared by: V. Babkin, S. Zhuravlev. May, 2012.

Description of the peak

Peak 3226.0 is one of the peaks in the northern part of the Karajash ridge. It is located in the territory of the North Caucasian Federal District of the Russian Federation, in the Karachay-Cherkess Republic, Arkhyz mountain region, between the Pshish and Sofia rivers. Peak 3226.0 is a prominent mountain of the Karajash massif, located northwest of the nodal peak Karajash (3171.0). The peak is easily identifiable from the upper cirque of the Orlenok gully. The peak does not have an official name, so it has conditional tourist and climbing names:

REPORT

on the ascent of Pik Avstriyskogo komsomola from the east, from Chhalta – Dzykh Pass, July 9–10, 1972, first ascent.

I. Group Composition

• Gubanov Yu.D. — CMS, senior instructor KSP Dombay region, unattached, sports society "Burevestnik", Dombay settlement.
• Khamtsov A.P. — 1st sports category, junior instructor alpine camp "Alibek", unattached, sports society "Burevestnik", Dombay settlement.

II. Alpinist and Geographical Characteristics of Pik Avstriyskogo komsomola Region (3650 m)

Pik Avstriyskogo komsomola is located in the Main Ridge and has a long ridge stretching from west to east and dropping steeply to Chhalta – Dzykh Pass (3180 m). At the end of the eastern ridge of the peak, dropping to the pass, there is a shoulder in the form of a huge tooth with a sheer eastern wall. Through this shoulder from the south, along the counterfort, in 1969 a route 4A category of difficulty was passed to Pik Avstriyskogo komsomola. There is also an old route — traverse of Pik Germanskogo komsomola — Pik Avstriyskogo komsomola 3A category of difficulty, which has not been used for a long time. It was passed by a group led by Yu. Gubanov — Yu. Prima in June 1972 to scout other routes in this area, as a result of which the described route was chosen by us. We assumed that it had not been climbed before, as all descents from the traverse of Pik Germanskogo komsomola — Pik Avstriyskogo komsomola 3A category of difficulty and descents from the route on Pik Avstriyskogo komsomola from the south along the counterfort 4A category of difficulty were made to the south, along another, easier counterfort. Apparently, the path from the pass was considered difficult or was completely unknown. Subsequently, when passing the route, before the already passed ridge section, we did not find any traces.

Ascent Passport. I. Rock climbing category. 2. Dombay region, North-West Caucasus. 3. Ascent to Avstriyskiy Komsomola peak (3654 m) via left NE edge — first ascent. 4. Difficulty category — 4B. 5. Route characteristics — rock climbing. Height difference 1050 m, length 1350 m, length of sections with IV difficulty category — 950 m, average steepness 60°. 6. Diverse insurance: 30 rock pitons were hammered for insurance, rope loops were used 25 times. 7. Departure and return dates to the camp: 5–7 August 1976. 8. Number of travel hours from the start of the route to the summit — 12 hours and descent to Belalakaya glacier another 5.5 hours. The ascent was made on August 6, 1976 (The group had a reserve of warm clothing, a primus stove, etc.). 9. Sports group: Starikov G.A. — 1st sports category, instructor Stepanov E.L. — with observers on the glacier — 3rd category climbers.

1. Ascent to the summit Glavny Aksaut (3910 m) from the south — cat. diff. 2B

From Dombayskaya Polyana along the trail to Turye Lake, then along the trail and through the barany lby to the Dvuyazychny Glacier and along it (in ropes!) to the Jalovchat Pass. From Dombayskaya Polyana 6 hours. From the pass down to the barany lby and through them to the Jalovchat Glacier. Then along the right-bank moraine and further along the Jalovchat Glacier in the direction of the Khamurza Pass, keeping to the left of the rocky outcrops, exit to the steep part of the glacier. Up the steep slope of the glacier (crampons!):

• 300–350 m left-up,
• then 180–200 m right — up,
• exit under the western ridge of the Maly Jalovchat peak. Further:
• traverse right 120–150 m to the rocks of the Maly Aksaut peak,
• crossing the bergschrund (protection!),

Fig. 20

2. Traverse of Белала-кай from the North — Category 3B difficulty (Fig. 20)

From Медвежья поляна upwards — to the right towards the rocky ridge, then along the grassy slopes and through the stream along the grassy couloir to the bivouac site. From Домбайская поляна — 4 hours. From the bivouac:

• to the right — upwards through the scree to the snowfield (in teams) and 100–120 m below the northern edge to a narrow shelf ( крюк! );
• then traverse to the left — upwards for 30–35 m (2–3 крюк! );
• then to the right — upwards along the steep rocks to the second wall;

Fig. 54

1. Ascent to the summit of Bolshoy Bu-Ulgen (3915 m) via the east wall — Category 4B difficulty (Fig. 54)

From Dombay plain to the Northern refuge by car. From the Northern refuge, across the river Hokel via a log, and then to the Chotcha glade — bivouac. From the bivouac:

• Up the snowy slope towards the second eastern ridge of Bolshoy Buulgen
• Further ascent predominantly along the ridge to the first shoulder via steep (50–55°), местами за­рос­шим тра­вой ска­лам (стра­хов­ка!)
• After traversing 80–90 m along the ridge shoulder, descend to the right onto the glacier (крю­чьевая страховка!) — 40 m rappel and through the randkluft to exit onto the glacier

Fig. 13

1. Ascent to the summit of Dzhalovchat (3870 m) — cat. diff. 1B (Fig. 13)

From Dombayskaya Polyana to the alpinist camp "Alibek" and further along the trail to Turyego Lake. From Turyego Lake, ascent along the moraine of the Dvuyazychny glacier (along the trail in the direction of the Dzhalovchatsky pass). Through the "baраньи лбы" (rocky outcrops) exit to the glacier and along it (in rope teams!), not reaching 200–250 m to the Dzhalovchatsky pass. Then left along the rocks of the eastern slope of the Sunakhet peak, through a marginal crevasse and along a steep snowy slope — exit to the saddle between the peaks of Sunakhet and Uzlovaya Dzhalovchat, bivouac site. From Dombayskaya Polyana 7–8 hours. From the bivouac along the snowy slope to the summit of Uzlovaya. From it, a gentle descent to the snowy saddle to the summit of Dzhalovchat. From the saddle, along the right side of a not steep, ruined ridge upwards to the summit (insurance, rockfall danger!). Exit to the summit along a sharp snowy ridge. The ascent to the summit from the bivouac takes 2.5–3 hours. Descent along the ascent route to Dombayskaya Polyana — 7–8 hours.

1. Number of participants in the group — no more than 10–15 people.
2. Initial bivouac — saddle between the peaks of Sunakhet and Uzlovaya Dzhalovchat.

Fig. 30

2. Ascent to the main summit of Dzhuguturluchat via the northern slope - category (see Fig. 30)

From Abalakovskaya bivouac to the left-up along the glacier, bypassing ice falls from the left, then to the right-up along the slope between the ice falls and the rocky island.

• At first, the slope is gentle - 200-250 m
• Then the steepness increases to 45°, in some places - up to 50° (belay!)
• In the second half of summer, there is ice on this section; ice screws are necessary for belay (45-50°, belay!) Further to the right - up to the northwest ridge and along it to the summit. From the bivouac