Sports team of Voroshilovgradkhimstroy complex Uzunkol alpine camp

REPORT

on the first ascent to the Shidag-Mingen peak via the northern ridge, category 3B, on July 27, 1980 Severodonetsk From the bivouac on the moraine in the cirque of B. Nakhar and Dvuzubka peaks, along the moraine ridge on the left side of the North Nakhar glacier, then ascent to the right and upwards along the glacier to the bergschrund under the couloir leading to Igolchaty pass. 1 hour from the overnight stay. Cross the bridge from right to left (belay), exit to simple rocks and along the talus shelf - under the overhangs on the left side of the couloir. Under the overhangs, along the boundary of rocks and snow, ascent to the start of a 20m 60° chimney. Up the chimney (rocks! pitons!) and then along the 40m 45° inclined slabs (belay), exit to the talus couloir. 200m along the couloir - simultaneous movement - from left to right towards the snow and then 40m upwards along the rocks like "sheep's foreheads" (belay! pitons!). Exit under the finger on the pass (convenient bivouac spot) and then to the pass. This is the I control point. 2 hours from the bergschrund. From Igolchaty pass, along the left side of the wall, 20m 80°, exit to a shelf. From the shelf straight up along a 7m 90° chimney and then along an inclined crack under the overhangs (difficult climbing), exit to a narrow (0.5m) horizontal shelf - 10m under the overhangs (careful belay!). At the end of the shelf is the II control point.

Report

on the first ascent to the summit Dolomit Yuzhnyy Malyy (proposed) via the Western wall, approximately 4A category of complexity by the team from Voronezh region on August 11, 2021

I. Climbing Passport

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF UZUNKOL VIA THE NORTH-WEST RIDGE ROUTE, CATEGORY 2B, BY THE "SAMARA-PENZA" TEAM, AUGUST 24, 2022

1. Ascent Passport

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2. preliminary The summit of Adyr-Su-bashi, category 4A, via the Granovskiy Pass, elevation 4370 m. The nature of the route is predominantly rocky and icy. The summit of Adyr-Su-bashi is located in the northern Adyr ridge of the Main Caucasian Range. Several ridges lead to the summit, including the southern one, descending to the Granovskiy Pass. Day 1 Approaches to the Granovskiy Pass are made:

• via the Mestia trail,

Report

On the first ascent to the peak 40 years of TASSR — South

via the southern ridge from the Maly Kichkinekol pass. Stavropol Regional Federation of Alpinism of Russia.

Contact Information

• The ascent was made by climbers from Nevinnomyssk and Stavropol, with the goal of mastering a new route.
• Ascent leader
• Tereshchenko Artem Pavlovich
• Group members
• Pekin Andrey Nikolaevich

Fig. 19 77. Tajmazi East — West (combined route, 4A cat. of difficulty, Fig. 19). The path from the "Tajmazi" clearing (group of 4-8 people) to the summit of East Tajmazi is described in route 72. From the East summit, descend along a simple rocky ridge in the direction of the Central summit. Then, along a wide, long snow-covered simple rocky ridge, bypassing numerous small gendarmes on the left and overcoming only one head-on, then along a simple wide snow-covered ridge, ascend to Central Tajmazi. From the East summit, it takes 2 hours 30 minutes. From the Central summit, descend along a wide steep snowy ridge towards the West summit onto a snowy saddle. From the saddle, along a wide ledge, then along the inner corner of the left side of the ridge, ascend to under the summit tower of the VII gendarme (first from the Central summit). Bypass the tower on the right, then rappel onto the saddle under the VI Double-Humped gendarme. Along rocks of above-average difficulty, ascend a 15-20-meter wall onto the gendarme. From the Double-Humped gendarme, make a sports descent onto a snowy saddle. From the saddle, along rocks of above-average difficulty, ascend 45-50 meters onto the V gendarme (pitons insurance). From it, descend using sports equipment. Then, along a narrow ridge, passing small gendarmes head-on, approach the IV gendarme, overcome it head-on along rocks of average difficulty, and descend onto the saddle under the III gendarme. Bypass the III and II gendarmes along ledges and rocks of average difficulty (pitons insurance) on the right side of the ridge, then ascend a 15-meter wall onto the saddle under the I gendarme. Overcome the gendarme head-on and along a snowy (cornices), then narrow rocky ridge, ascend to the summit of West Tajmazi. The route includes the following sections:

Fig. 19 76. Tajmazi Zapadnaya — Vostochnaya (combined route by G. Cherevichenko, 4A category of difficulty, fig. 19). The path from the "Tajmazi" meadow (group of 4–8 people) to the summit of Zapadnaya Tajmazi is described in route 74. From Zapadnaya Tajmazi, descend in the direction of Central'naya Tajmazi along a narrow rocky, then snowy (cornices) ridge to under the I gendarme. Overcome it directly along the ridge with a descent to under the II gendarme. From under the II gendarme, make a 15 m rappel to the left and along the rocks on the left side — bypass the II and III gendarmes of the ridge. Overcome the IV gendarme directly along the moderately difficult rocks of the ridge. Further, along a narrow ridge with several low gendarmes (overcome directly along the ridge), exit under the large V-gendarme. Overcome the gendarme directly. From it, make a difficult 15 m descent to a platform, from which make a 30 m rappel to a snowpatch. Then, along rocks of above-average difficulty, make an ascent (piton belay) to the VI — Dvugorbyi gendarme, from it make a 15 m rappel to a saddle under the VII gendarme. Along the ridge, ascend to the gendarme, traverse along the left side (pitons belay) of the summit ridge of the gendarme. At the end of the gendarme, move to its right side. From here, descend along an internal angle, then along a wide, destroyed ledge, exit to a saddle under the ascent to Central'naya summit. On the saddle, make a bivouac. Travel time:

• From Zapadnaya Tajmazi: 4–6 hours
• From the initial bivouac: 9–11 hours

Fig. 4 10. Tsukhgarty via Western Ridge (combined route by I. Suzhaev, category 4A difficulty, Fig. 4). From the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–6 people) ascend via grassy slopes and then moraines to the right and upwards (northeast) towards the areas near a small lake below the Tsukhgarty glacier, beneath the Sugansky Ridge saddle, which connects the Nakhashbita peak on the left and Tsukhgarty on the right. The journey from the "Nakhashbita" meadow takes 1 hour 15 minutes. From the lake, ascend the steep slope (possible rockfall — belaying required) of the Tsukhgarty glacier:

• approach a small icefall, which is bypassed on the right side closer to the rocks of Tsukhgarty peak
• after the icefall, ascend the narrow glacier (exposed to rockfall from Nakhashbita and Tsukhgarty slopes) in the direction of the snowy slope of the couloir descending from Nakhashbita pass, located between its large gendarme and the Main Nakhashbita peak — on the left The journey from the lake takes 2–2.5 hours. From the glacier, overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge (belaying required) and continue ascending, sticking to the right side of the ice-snow couloir (possible rockfall) or the destroyed rocks on its right side (belaying required). In the middle part of the couloir, exit onto the ridge and then ascend an 70–80-meter slope (pitons belay) to reach the Sugansky Ridge saddle to the left of the Big Gendarme. Ascent time:

Fig. 5 12. Peak Shevchenko 9416 m via the Northwest Ridge (A. Zyuzin's route, combined, 3B category of difficulty, Fig. 5). From the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu River, not far from the tongue of the Nakhashbita Glacier (group of 4–5 people), ascend along the ridge of the left-bank moraine of the glacier to the base of the Northwest Ridge of Peak Shevchenko. Here, turn left and ascend along the scree to the left of the Northwest Ridge of the peak to a wide, steep snow-ice couloir descending from the Northwest Ridge of the peak. From here:

• ascend to the right along the scree,
• then along the steep snow-ice slope on the left side of this couloir for 150–200 m under the wall (possible rockfall — piton belay). Then, ascend along a small, heavily broken, moderately difficult rock wall to reach the Northwest Ridge of Peak Shevchenko. On the ridge, turn left and ascend along simple and moderately difficult broken rocks of the Northwest Ridge. Overcome the I and II gendarmes head-on along moderately difficult rocks, the III — along a chimney and rocks above moderate difficulty of the wall (piton belay) with a 20 m rappel, and from it to a ledge under the IV gendarme. Bypass the IV and V gendarmes on the right along shelves, and then reach a platform on the Northwest Ridge.

ASCENT REPORT ON MESHENA EASTERN (3130 m) VIA ROUTE 2B DIFFICULTY CATEGORY, SOUTHERN COULoir BY "UAL" TEAM ON APRIL 18, 2022

Ascent Passport

1. General Information 1.1. Leader Chikin A.B. 1st sports category 1.2. Participants Gurenko T.Yu. 2nd sports category 1.3. Coach Yakovenko A.N. 1.4. Organization "UAL"
2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object 2.1. Caucasus. Skalisty Range. Digoria 2.2. Urukh valley