ASCENT REPORT ON MESHENA EASTERN (3130 m) VIA ROUTE 2B DIFFICULTY CATEGORY, SOUTHERN COULoir BY "UAL" TEAM ON APRIL 18, 2022

Ascent Passport

1. General Information

1.1. Leader Chikin A.B. 1st sports category 1.2. Participants Gurenko T.Yu. 2nd sports category 1.3. Coach Yakovenko A.N. 1.4. Organization "UAL"

2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object

2.1. Caucasus. Skalisty Range. Digoria 2.2. Urukh valley 2.3. From Gezivcek pass to Gurdзивцek pass 2.7. Meshena Eastern 3130 m

3. Route Characteristics:

Via Southern counterfort. Proposed 2B category difficulty. First ascent. Rock climbing. Route elevation gain 220 m. Route length 300 m. 1st category difficulty — 100 m. 2nd category difficulty — 100 m. 3rd category difficulty — 30 m. 4th category difficulty — 15 m. 5th category difficulty — 5 m. Descent from the summit — via 2B route on the Southern slope

4. Characteristics of the Team's Actions:

4.1. Travel time 30 min. 4.2. Overnight stays — none. 4.3. Start of ascent 10:20 April 18, 2022 4.4. Reaching the summit 10:50 April 18, 2022 4.5. Return to base camp 12:00 April 18, 2022

5. Person Responsible for the Report:

Chikin Artem Borisovich artem.chikin@mail.ru 8-918-828-48-28

Route Description

From the koша or old geological mine, follow west towards the visible g. Uazakhoh via a good trail. Before reaching the V. Uaza pass, turn onto the slope to the right, towards Meshena Eastern, and head towards the couloir separating Meshena Eastern and Meshena Central. Start of the route in this couloir:

• R0–R1: Begin from the inner corner and continue along the couloir with "ram's foreheads" and ledges, snow-covered during the off-season. 2, 200 m.
• R1–R2: Wall with cracks, 4–5, 25 m. Key section of the route. Reach the saddle between Meshena Central and Eastern.
• R2–R3: Turn right and follow the ledges on the southern side of the western ridge to approach the wall. 1–2, 50 m.
• R3–R4: Wall, 3–4, 30 m. Reach the saddle before the summit tower.
• R4–R5: Turn west-left and ascend the wall of the summit tower to reach the summit. 4, 15 m.

Descent via 2B route on the Southern slope, with rappel anchors available.

General photo of Meshena Eastern 3130 m

Start of the route R0

Couloir R0–R1

Couloir R0–R1

Key wall R1–R2

Wall R1–R2

Ledges R2–R3 and Wall R3–R4

Summit tower R4–R5

Conclusions and recommendations for the route. The route is recommended for training groups. Interesting, logical line. More challenging than 2B on the Southern slope to the same summit.

Features of the ascent:

• During the off-season, there is snow in the couloir, possibly ice.
• Crampons may be necessary.
• Belaying is challenging.
• The key section's wall is monolithic and interesting.
• Belaying — with protection elements.

Descent:

• Rappelling from the summit.
• Further via 2B route on the Southern slope, as it is simpler.

The route was completed simultaneously in 30 min.