CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE CENTRAL AND NORTH-WESTERN FEDERAL DISTRICTS

class - high-altitude technical

REPORT

On the ascent to the summit Volnaya Ispaniya (4163 m) via the North-Eastern edge (Subortovich route) 5B cat. sl. by the team "Center" August 7, 2024

I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

I. Climbing category - technical 2. North spur of the Main Caucasian Range. 3. Peak Germogenova via the left part of the N wall 4. Proposed category: 3A 5. Route description: snow-ice, height difference (from the saddle) - 423 m, average steepness of the wall section - 46° 6. Number of protection points - 36 (ice screws) 7. Total climbing time - 6 hours 8. Team leader: Laptev Alexander Leonidovich, Candidate Master of Sports Team members:

• Ivanov G.A., Candidate Master of Sports

II AS II ORT

I. Ice and snow class. 2. Central Caucasus. 3. Pik Germogenova, 3993 m, via N wall 4. Proposed 4A cat. dif. 5. Height difference — 513 m. Length of sections with 5 cat. dif. — 155 m Average steepness of the wall section — 51°. 6. Ice screws used for belay — 76. 7. Trekking hours — 6. 8. No overnight stays.

Sportsman's Day via the Eastern Ridge (from Jalovchat Pass), combined, 16 hours

Route description:

Link up on the pass. The ascent via the eastern ridge should start up a snowy slope between rocky outcrops with an initial steepness of about 30° (40 m), then up to 45° (40 m). The snowy slope leads to the 1st low rock tower. From it, 40 m of easy ridging leads to a rock wall (5 m) and an icy (snowy) gully to the right of it, below the 2nd rock tower. The wall has good handholds and after 5 m turns into a steep ridge of the 2nd rock tower. After 40 m, there's an exit onto the 2nd rock tower. There's a control cairn here. For a large group, this ascent variant to the 2nd rock tower is safer. Although another option is possible: traverse the gully with an exit to the opposite rocky ridge (20 m) and then (40 m) move along this ridge over easy to moderately difficult rocks, and in the upper part, traverse the gully to the right (15 m) onto the main ridge. Further, about 20 m on broken rocks (!) of moderate difficulty (intermittent belay). The rocks lead to the 2nd rock tower. There's a control cairn here. Further, 10 m of easy ridging and a wall with a cleft (5–6 m) lead to the rocks of the ridge with good handholds (40 m). Belay using protrusions. Then another 40 m of easy ridging leads to below the 3rd rock tower Palen. The 3rd rock tower is bypassed either on the right - on snow, or on the left - on ledges (belay using protrusions), which lead to a snowy ridge (120 m). The snowy ridge starts with a steep snowy (possibly icy) knife-edge (10 m). Further, 80 m of a not-steep snowy ridge with cornices to the right. The adjacent ridge leads to a rock wall (5 m), which is climbed on the right (along the route); further along a large-block rocky ridge (250 m) and about 20 m on snow, we reach the summit, which is a rocky tower (5 m). There's a control cairn on the tower. (From Jalovchat Pass - 2.5-2 hours).

Route Description

Climbing to the summit of Dzhangtugan via the Northeast Ridge, category 3B From the Dzhangtugan alpine camp, ascend along the trail on the left bank of the Adylsu River, then cross to its right bank via a natural stone bridge. Follow the trail along the right bank to the "Green Hotel" clearing, near the Dzhankuat Glacier. The journey from the Dzhangtugan alpine camp takes 2 hours. From the "Green Hotel," ascend along the ridge of the right lateral moraine of the Dzhankuat Glacier to the platforms at its end (Snowy bivouac). From the Snowy bivouac, traverse a snowy slope, bypassing a rocky massif on the left, and reach a saddle on the northeast ridge, a 2-hour journey. From the saddle, ascend a snowy slope for 4 ropes to the bergschrund, then 20 meters to the start of the rocks. From there, follow a rocky ledge left for 1 rope to an internal corner 2.5 meters high, from which ascend left and upwards towards a gendarme (4 "glove" pitches), bypassing it on the left and upwards through moderately difficult rocks (1 rope). Reach the top of the gendarme (control cairn). Continue through broken rocks to a distinct reddish gendarme (4 ropes, control cairn). From it, descend into a gully (4 meters) and then ascend through rocks to the ridge. Traverse 20 meters along a snowy-icy slope and ascend 3 ropes through icy rocks with small holds. Continue for 4.5 ropes under the pre-summit tower along a snowy-icy slope. Approach the tower from the left through rocks (control cairn) - challenging climbing - and reach indistinct black rocks. From there, ascend 5 ropes along a rocky ridge to the summit - 5-6 hours. Descend via the category 2A route along the left part of the couloir (pitons for protection, 4 ropes). Then descend down a snowy slope and exit onto the glacier. From there, return to the Snowy bivouac. The descent takes 3 hours. Special equipment for 4 people:

1. Main rope 240 m
2. Auxiliary rope 5 m
3. Rock pitons 4-6 pcs.

Description

First Ascent of Djan-Tugan

Via the North-West Ridge

This ascent involved 8 people (the "Lokomotiv" team) divided into two groups of four, with a 1-hour interval between them. First group:

• Garf (team leader)
• Karavaev
• Povarnin
• Sharunin

I. Rock climbing category 2. Caucasus, GAKh 3. Mt. Dzhantugan, 3991 m, via the center of the West Face, combined route 4. Proposed category complexity: 5B 5. Height difference 740 m, route length 985 m Length of sections at category complexity: 135 m. Average slope of the route 50°, rock section 60° 6. Pitons hammered: rock 66, ice 0, placements 19 7. Climbing hours 13 8. No bivouacs, no suitable platforms on the route

305. Dolra Vostochnaya via North Ridge (combined route, R. Khazardzhe, 4A cat. diff., fig. 32, 42). From the initial bivouac on the Dolra glacier moraine (approx. 3000 m), cross the glacier (closed crevasses) and approach the left side of the base of the North Ridge of Dolra Vostochnaya peak. From the glacier, traverse the bergschrund and ascend the snowy slope to the rocks on the left side of the broad base of the North Ridge. From here, ascend 50–60 m up (loose rocks) moderate difficulty rocks of the ridge crest, then 140–160 m up-right on steep rocks and slabs of above-moderate difficulty. Then traverse left into a couloir, then 250–300 m up moderate difficulty rocks of the ridge crest on the left side of the North Ridge, with short above-moderate difficulty walls and corners, until reaching a 15–20-meter wall on the North Ridge. Overcome the wall directly via above-moderate difficulty rocks. Then ascend 400–450 m up steep rocks of the North Ridge with short difficult walls. Traverse the 100–120-meter snowy (cornices) North Ridge to reach the East Ridge. Here, turn right and ascend the straightforward East Ridge to the summit of Dolra Vostochnaya. From the glacier, 10–12 hours. Fig. 42.

The Dolra-Khevai ridge is located in the Elbrus group of peaks of the Caucasus in Upper Svaneti and forms part of the watershed between the valleys of the Angur, Dolra, and Nakra rivers. It stretches almost parallel to the Main Ridge south of the Dolguz-Orun peak and lies isolated on a spur between the Dolra and Kvich glaciers. The Dolra-Khevai ridge can be divided into the following three parts:

• the Dolra massif with the Eastern and Western - Main peaks (3860 m)
• the Trident massif with the Eastern - Pik Chetyrekh, Central, and Western peaks
• the Khevai massif with the Eastern and Western peaks. In the summer sports season of 1964, a team of climbers from the Odessa gatherings, consisting of:

1. LIVSHITS Viktor Yakovlevich - team leader, Master of Sports with experience of climbing 15 peaks of the 5th category of difficulty
2. BANDUROVSKY Igor Alexandrovich - participant, Master of Sports, with experience of climbing 15 peaks of the 5th category of difficulty
3. SHATILOV Vadim Mikhailovich - participant, 1st sports category, with experience of climbing 5 peaks of the 5th category of difficulty

Fig. 13 Fig. 14

3. Ascent to the Herzog peak via the North-Eastern ridge — for the difficulty category (Fig. 13 and 14)

From Dombayskaya Polyana to Turiy Lake — bivouac. From Dombayskaya Polyana 3.5–4 hours. From the bivouac up the moraine, then along the Alibek glacier (the glacier is exposed, belay!) to the rocky gate between the rocks of the northern edge of Herzog and the rocks under the eastern slope of Jalovchat. Up the steep snow-ice slope: