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Route Description: центру В стены
Description of a new technically challenging Category III route up the center of the East Face of Peak 4520 (Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range), climbed by a team of mountaineers in 1992.
PASSPORT
- Class — Technical
- Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su valley
- Peak 4520 (1000th anniversary of the Baptism of Rus) via the center of the Eastern wall.
- Assumed 6B category of difficulty (first ascent).
- Height difference — 1370 m, length — 1935 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category — 770 m. Average steepness of the route — 70°.
- Pitons hammered: | rock | nuts | bolts | | :--------: | :--------: | :---------: |
Route Description: С стене
Description of a Category 5B route to Peak 4810 in the Turkestan Range, climbed in 1987 by the Youth Sports Organization team of the "Trud" Sports Society.
№ 582 p. 20 26.01.88
ASCENT DOCUMENT
I. Ascent class — technical. 2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge. 3. Peak 4810 m from the northwest. 4. Third ascent, 5B category of complexity. 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1550–1650 m, length of 5th category sections — 660 m, 6th category — 260 m,
Route Description: С стене
### Description of the First Ascent of Peak 4810 via the North Face in the Turkestan Range Category 6A, climbed in 1992 by a team led by Kotelnikov A.I.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Technical category.
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Karavshin river basin.
- P. 4810 — via N wall.
- 6A category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Height difference: | | total | wall section | | :--------------- | :----- | :----------- | | length | 1095 m | 815 m | | average steepness| 62° | 69° |
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
First ascent of the northern spur of the Turkestan Range, Peak 4810, via the left part of the Northwest Wall, cat.6B難度.
I. Technical grade. 2. Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range, Karavshin valley. 3. Peak 4810 m, via the left part of the North-West wall. 4. First ascent, approximately 6B cat. dif. 5. Height difference — 1260 m, length — 1760 m. 6. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. dif. — 1460 m. Average slope of the route — 66° Average slope of the wall part of the route — 73° 6. Pitons hammered: | rock | bolt | nut | sky-hook holes |
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
Ascent route description to the Khacionti summit via the north spur wall with technical details and passage tactics.
PASSPORT
- Technical class.
- Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Ridge, Northern spur.
- Peak 4810 m.
- First ascent 6B cat. diff. (approximately).
- Route characteristics:
- height difference – 1110 m
- length of 6B cat. diff. sections – 1140 m
- « — » « — » 5B cat. diff. – 300 m
- « — » « — » 4B cat. diff. – 65 m
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
Description of a winter ascent of Peak Odessa (4810 m) via the NW wall, made in February 2008 by a team from Krasnoyarsk Krai.
Ascent Passport
- Region — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Karavshin valley, 5.4.3.23a
- Peak — Peak Odessa 4810 m. Via the center of NW wall (Voronov 88)
- Assumed — 6B, third ascent, variation
- Route character — combined
5. Route characteristics:
route elevation gain 1000 m, route length — 1350 m. length of 6th cat. diff. sections — 1050 m, 5th cat. diff. — 180 m. average steepness of the route — 70°
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
First winter ascent via the center of the Northwest wall of Peak 4810 (Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range) via Kritsuk Route, cat. 6B.
Ascent Passport
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Karavshin valley, 5.4.3.
- Peak 4810, 4810 m, via the center of the North-West wall, Kritsuk route
- 6B cat. diff. (first winter ascent, combination)
- Route type: combined
- Route height difference: 1180 m Route length: 1515 m Section lengths:
- V cat. diff. – 521 m
- VI cat. diff. – 884 m
Route Description: В кф.
Report on the first ascent of Pik Piramidal'nyy (5509 m) via the east buttress in the Pamir-Alay in 1987.
- Climbing category — altitude-technical.
- Climbing area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Kara-su river gorge (tributary of Karavshin river).
- Object of ascent — Pyramid Peak, 5509 m, via the eastern spur, combined route.
- Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Height difference — 1890 m, route length — 2520 m, including 5–6 category of difficulty — 1350 m, average steepness — 49°.
- Pitons driven
| Rock | Bolt | Ice | Nuts | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: | | 40 | 0 | 50 | 39 |
Route Description: центр. кф. С стены
Ascent to Peak Piramidal'nyy via the central counterfort of the northern wall, made by the LOS DFSO trade unions team in 1989, description of the route and tactical actions.
Passport
I. Technical class. 2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge (upper reaches of the Karavshin river). 3. Peak Pyramidal (5510 m) via the central counterfort of the northern wall. 4. First ascent, category VI complexity (tentative). 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain: 1720 m, route length: 1985 m, length of sections: 5–6 cat. diff. — 1665 m, 4 cat. diff. — 320 m, average steepness:
- main part of the wall — 76°, 2) rest of the route — 66 — 66°.
- Number of pitons used: | rock | chocks | ice |
Route Description: 3 гребню
Route of 5A category of complexity to Western Laboda via Western ridge, combined, with a description of the path from "Nakhashbita" glade to the Main summit.
- Laboda Western peak via Western ridge (combined route by O. Fedorov, 5A cat. diff., fig. 16, 18). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–8 people) to the left-bank moraine under the tongue of the Tsubhuni glacier is described in routes 66, 67. From the moraine, exit onto the Tsubhuni glacier and move in the direction of the left saddle of the Western ridge of the Laboda massif. Having passed along the steep plowed slope of the glacier of the Northwest walls of the massif, approach under the saddle of the Western ridge and climb up the steep ice-snow slope to the saddle. On the saddle — initial bivouac. From the "Nakhashbita" meadow 7–9 hours. On the saddle, turn left and along the heavily fractured rocks of the 180–200-meter Western ridge, alternating with narrow snowy sections (cornices), approach under the I gendarme. From under the gendarme, descend 60 m to the