Ascent Passport

1. Area: Western Tien Shan, Ugam Ridge, 7.11.
2. Peak Name: Druzhba 4100 m, route: via the left part of the S bastion of the 3rd ridge.
3. Difficulty category: presumably 5A, first ascent.
4. Route characteristics: combined.
5. Height difference of the wall section 500 m, route length 1280 m, length of sections: V difficulty category – 185 m, VI difficulty category – 35 m, average steepness of the bastion – 59°, total route – 49°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total – 2, including bolted – 1. Pitons used on the route:

• Rock: 12/2
• Bolted: 1/1

32

Description

Traversing the peak KOPTAU (4100 m) No. 2. (First ascent). Departure from the bivouac, located by the lake, at dawn, at 5 or 5:30 am, but no later. Immediately behind the lake, the ascent of the terminal moraine of the ancient glacier begins (height 40–50 m); keeping to the right side, we ascend a few more gentle and small ascents and exit to the middle talus. To our left will be two slabs. One rises above the other by 1.5–2 m, the slabs are smoothed to 30° steepness. If there is snow on the slabs, they can be passed, if they are without snow, it is better to bypass them on the fairly small talus to the right (downhill). On the talus to the right, we ascend above the gorge, which is exposed to rockfall from the very early morning. Then, keeping to the right side, we head towards the false saddle. The path goes along a fairly steep snowfield (45–50 degrees). To our left remains a long ridge leading to the summit. When we come level with the beginning of the ridge, we need to climb steeply to the left to the foot of the ridge. Its northwest wall is completely sheer, with no snow or loose rocks, and under it is fairly dense deep snow. Until now, in most cases, the snow lies on the slabs, and when traversing in the lower part, it is possible to get caught in an avalanche. The entire path to the foot of the ridge will take one and a half to two hours. Then, keeping at a distance of 30–50 meters from the ridge on the snowfield, we ascend to the imaginary saddle, which is visible as two patches of talus. We need to exit to the left part between the talus and the ridge. This section of the path will take another hour and a half.

Ascent Passport

1. Area: Western Tien Shan, Ugam Ridge, 7.11.
2. Peak name: Sayram, route name: via the right 3rd buttress of the N wall (4238 m).
3. Difficulty category: approximately 5A, first ascent.
4. Route characteristics: combined.
5. Height difference of the wall section: 574 m, route length: 1420 m, wall section length: 620 m, section lengths:
   • 5th difficulty category – 290 m,
   • 6th difficulty category – 20 m, average steepness of the wall section: 69°, entire route: 60°.
6. Hooks left on the route: total – 1.

4135

Joloe Peak (East), 4355 m

via the north central ridge, cat. 4A (from camp on Joloe Glacier 3560 m) From the 3560 m bivouac located on the left side of Joloe Glacier, ascend via moraine (snow-covered depending on the season) to the north-central ridge lying to the right of the northern buttress. The ascent to the start of the route is via a snow-ice slope with a slope angle of 35–40° and a length of 120 m, to the left of the lower third of a monolithic rocky triangle. The route follows the left (as seen from below) edge of the triangle; climbing grade 3–4. Belays are alternating, via projections; use protection gear and pitons. The section is 130–140 m long. This is followed by a small snow-covered rocky ledge 3–4 m wide, after which there is

• a 35-meter rocky wall with a slope angle of 75–80°, leading to a rocky "window" and the ridge. Belays are via pitons and protection gear. Climbing is difficult. This is the first crux. The ascent continues along the ridge:
• Belays are alternating until a snow-covered ledge; the ridge is degraded, rocks are grade 2–3.
• Ahead lies a large gendarme, which is ascended head-on via a cleft and then a chimney; the height is 10 m, climbing is difficult, challenging.

The group's entry under the north buttress of Manas peak at 7:30 am from the 3300 m campsite on the moraine, uphill along the slope with a steepness of 30–35°; to the col (100–120 m). Rope up. From the col, move left — directly along the broken rocks. Simultaneous movement (2 hours). Approach the gendarme, which is bypassed on the left as you go. Then again along easy broken rocks to the second gendarme, which is also bypassed on the left. (Snow throughout the entire route.) Continuing along the ridge, bypass the third gendarme on the right and enter a wide icy couloir with a steepness of 35–40° (move in crampons, ice is 10–15 cm thick). Piton belay. Upward along the ice (in the spring period — covered with snow). 80 m to a rocky outcrop (belay spot); and then traverse right to the north ridge — 50 m, with an exit onto the north ridge. Further, bypass the rocks on the right side along the ledges and come under the "Trident" gendarme, which is passed on the left upward along inclined ledges (10–12 m). Alternating belay through outcrops, when passing inclined ledges — piton belay. After the "Trident" gendarme — exit onto a sharp edge (4 m), belay through outcrops. Further movement along broken rocks to a gap. Rope descent (10–12 m), rocks with a steepness of 70°. Movement continues along the icy slope of Manas' cap, covered with snow (move in crampons). Further upward with a traverse to the right to a rocky "tooth" (150–160 m). Then movement along the rocky crest to the pre-summit gendarme — rocks of medium difficulty, 10 m. Descent into the gap (rappel — 7 m) and to the visible summit — 5 min. Total route time — 11–12 hours

47² μ⁸ μ/2

Djoung Manas (4512 m) via the Eastern ridge (from the col) via the route 4A cat. diff. Exit from the "May nights" camp at 3300 m, movement along the glacier, crossing it diagonally, towards the col — 1 hour. Before ascending to the col, it is necessary to rope up:

• Sharp altitude gain
• Hard firn
• Slope steepness up to 45–50° Reaching the ridge at 3850 m. Beginning of the route. Exit through a crevasse onto a gendarme — 20 m, intermittent belay. Descent via rocky outcrops — 30 m. Left along the ridge, climbing 3^a technical difficulty. Further ascent along the ridge — 30 m. The second gendarme is bypassed on the left via loose rocky slabs — 30 m, then along a snowy ridge — 50 m. A short descent, followed by an ascent along a snowy slope 35–40° — 150 meters. Movement along a snowy ridge with a steepness of 25–30° — 200 meters. To the right remains a reddish granite tooth — 10 m. Further:

I. Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category: technical.
2. Climbing area: North-West Tian Shan, Talas Alatau range.
3. Peak, its height, climbing route — South Manas 4512 m, via the north face of the eastern ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1000 m. Length of sections 5–6 km/tr. 365 m, average steepness 60°.
6. Pitons used: for rock protection — 65; for creating rock ITO — 4.
7. Total climbing hours: 30 hours.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: one night on the wall, semi-reclined for four people.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualifications:

Bau-besh-ata, 4485 m, 2B. Location: pr. 120905.15/3-637. Compiled by: Nekrasov G. To the north of Jalal-Abad city, above the north-eastern edge of the Fergana valley, rises the Bau-besh-ata mountain massif. The highest peak of this massif is Peak Weber (Bau-besh-ata or Bak-bash-ata), named after a prominent Soviet geologist-academician. The foot of Peak Weber, like the entire Bau-besh-ata massif, is covered with walnut forests - the largest walnut forests in the world. The main watershed of the massif, which also passes through the peak, branches off from the main ridge of the Fergana range to the southwest, thus forming a separate spur. The entire massif is composed of limestone (marbleized) with a monolithic structure.

Approaches

From Jalal-Abad, you can drive by car through Bazar-Kurgan and along the Kara-Utur river to the famous Arslan-Bob tract in Central Asia. From Arslan-Bob, you need to walk north along the Arslan-Bob river on a trail. In the upper reaches, the trail crosses to the left bank (orographically) and heads east. The trail leads to a grassy plateau located directly under Bau-besh-ata. The base camp should be set up on the plateau near one of the springs.

Ascent Route

From the base camp, we ascend along the grassy slope to the right towards the ridge. The altitude gain along the grassy slope is 200–250 m. There are rock outcrops on the ridge. We follow the ridge north and reach a scree slope, and then below the rocks. We ascend the rocks by 5–6 m and then move to the right and up along a wide ledge, bypassing large rocks. After 30–40 m of ascent, we enter a couloir. The ascent along the couloir is on scree. The width of the couloir is 2–3 m, the steepness is 30–35°. After 10 m, the couloir abuts against steep rocks.

Passport

Protocol No. 12 of November 23, 1996, part 11, 5B.

1. Class: high-altitude technical
2. Region: central Tian-Shan, Meridional'nyy ridge, North Inyl'chek glacier
3. Climbing object: Gruzinskiy Peak via the couloir on the West wall (6400)
4. Complexity category: approximately 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1900 m, length — 2300 m, average steepness — 54°.
6. Number of pitons: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: |

7.16. 8

Peak named after the Kazakh Alpine Club. Description of the first ascent to the "Bezimyannaya" peak made by the sports group of the Republican Club of Alpinists and Tourists on August 4, 1957. I. The "Bezimyannaya" peak is located in the Meridionalny ridge in the Bayankol gorge area, 9-10 km from the Jar-Kulak settlement (abandoned mine), up the gorge. Its height is 4426 m. Glaciation. A glacier flows northwest from the slopes of the peak. Its length is 1.5-2 km. The western and northern slopes are mostly covered with ice and snow. Approaches: The approaches to the peak are made from the Bayankol gorge along a lateral gorge and start near a large waterfall located 8 km from the abandoned mine. From the beginning of the waterfall, the path lies east to a small glacier, which is bypassed from the left (in the direction of travel) along the terminal and lateral moraine. Starting from the middle of the glacier, the route turns north, and the ascent to the peak begins from here. The time taken for the approaches from the river valley to the peak is:

• 2 to 3 hours.