Overnight stay at the GMS station on the Roluбина glacier, crossing the glacier, approach to the slopes of p. Ала-Арча near a large moraine. Start of the route:

• Along the scree shelf to the red gendarme on the right side.
• Then up the steep snowy couloir with a stone plug at the top, entering the shelf between the gendarme and the wall (30 m, 40–45°, Cat. diff.).
• Traverse along the scree side of the ridge — 50 m, Cat. diff.
• Ascend medium-difficulty rocks to the control point — 10 m, Cat. diff.
• Then straight up medium-difficulty rocks under the wall (80 m, Cat. diff.).
• Up the wall with piton belay, exit to the main shelf (40 m, 70°; III–IV cat. diff.).

Brief explanation of the table

Peak Ba'checheke is located in the Kyrgyz ridge, Ak-Sai horseshoe, between the peaks Uchitel and Skryabin. The route is combined: the path to the summit goes through 103 counter-force, i.e., along the left (in the direction of travel) side of the rocky bastion. When the bastion ends, the counter-force of the bastion turns into the pre-summit ridge. The entire route can be conditionally divided into the following characteristic sections:

• Section 1
• Section 2
• Section 3 | Section | 0-1 | — Couloir 5 |

II CATEGORY II ROUTES

I. Category of First Ascents 2. Kirgizskiy Alatoo, Aksay gorge 3. p. Baychechekhey via the central counterfort of the Western wall 4. 5B approximately 5. Elevation gain 1080 m., length 1350 m Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty rating: 440 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 72°, including 6th difficulty rating sections: 80–85° (60 m), 90–95° (20 m) 6. Pitons used: rock pitons

Protocol №208 dated November 15, 1964 К-о Вгребно 3А

Description of the ascent to the 1st Botvey Tower

From the moraine campsite, we approach the saddle between the Botvey massif and Selmashevets. We move along the scree towards the saddle and, before reaching it, turn left (in the direction of travel) towards the "Window" between the first and second gendarmes. Here is a cairn. Then we move along the ridge to the summit tower, bypassing all gendarmes on the right in the direction of travel. At the same time, we lose considerable height. When bypassing the first gendarme, we rappel 15 m from the "window" to the other side of the ridge. Two counterforts extend from the gendarme. We ascend the first counterfort along the scree and descend to its other side down a gully covered with flow ice, 6–7 m, using sports equipment. We cross a wide couloir located between the 1st and 2nd counterforts. The second counterfort is passed in the same way as the first one. The gully down which we descend from it is much longer, 30 m, with an icy bottom covered with snow. We descend from it using sports equipment. A hook with a loop is left here. The gully ends with a small ice wall, 6–7 m. Continuing to descend, we bypass the next gendarme and start ascending a wide couloir, which narrows in its upper part and increases its steepness to 70–75°. In the upper part, the couloir is covered with flow ice. This section should be passed early in the morning due to rockfall hazard. 3 hooks are driven in when passing this section. The length of this section is 15 m. Further, the couloir becomes gentler and leads to a wide ledge covered with medium scree with a steepness of 30°. We ascend along the ledge to a slab with a steepness of 45°, 30 m long. We pass these slabs with piton belay to the "window" located in the eastern counterfort of the summit tower between the summit and a small gendarme. 5 pitons are driven in.

B. Boxs, 4240 m, via N. Stena, 4A comb., as a duo Fedorov S. January 30, 7:15 — Exit from Khikhina Promin M. 10:00 — control point NAE. 16:20 — Overnight M. Petrov January 31, 8:15 — Exit from bivouac E. Lobanev 13:00 — Reach the ridge 14:40 — Summit 17:00 — descent to Khikhinka 18:00 — descent to Ala-Archa

Passport

I. Rock class 2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Ala-Archa gorge 3. Boks peak via the edge of the northern wall 4. Assumed 5B category of difficulty, third ascent 5. Height difference 600 m, length 850 m 6. Length of sections with 6A–6B category of difficulty — 90 m sections with 5B category of difficulty — 330 m. Average steepness of the main part 74° 7. Pitons left on the route — 0

Report

On ascending peak Bokh via the route on the left part of the S wall (Mikhailova M.M.) 5B category of complexity by the team of a/c Black Ice for the period from January 4 to January 6, 2020

I. Climbing Report

Route 5A cat. sl., description compiled by Aksenov V.A.

General Information about the Climbing Area

Peak "XXII Congress of the CPSU" is located in the Kyrgyz Range, part of the Western Tian Shan system, and belongs to the Alamedin River basin. The northeastern and northern slopes of the summit descend to the glacier of the Salyk River basin, which flows into the Alamedin River. The northwestern slopes of the summit, covered with ice, abruptly break off to the Peremin Glacier, located between the slopes of this summit and the northern peak of the Alamedin Wall. The southern slopes descend to the Ozorovsky Glacier in the Alamedin River basin. To the east and west of Peak "XXII Congress of the CPSU" are peaks that are of significant interest to climbers. The height of the summit above sea level is 4650 m, with a relative height of about 1200 m. In terms of sports, Peak "XXII Congress" is of significant interest. To the west, a ridge extends with an unnamed peak. The ascent along the northwestern counterfort, followed by a traverse of both peaks, is a route of the highest category of difficulty.

1. Ascent category — snow and ice
2. Kyrgyz Ala-Too
3. Peak Izyskatel (4400 m) via the center of the northwest face
4. Proposed category difficulty — 3B
5. Height difference — 300 m Route length — 400 m. Average steepness — 50°
6. Pitons driven — 31/0 (ice screws)
7. Climbing hours — 4.5
8. Base camp — hut near Koronsky glacier
9. Rodikov A.P. — Candidate Master of Sports

2. Traverse of Sulakhat summit from north to south — 2A cat. diff. (see Fig. 7)

From the northern summit, left and down into the pass. Then along the ridge (insurance through ledges!) to the control cairn. From the cairn, descend to the right along the crevice to a shelf and along it (piton insurance!) to the next ridge saddle. Then along the ridge to a 30-meter wall. Descend along it to the ridge. From the ridge, descend to the right to a shelf and then along the ridge to the base of the South summit. Ascent to the South summit along the ridge. Descent from the South summit to the right along a gully (insurance!) to a shelf and along it to exit to a narrow snow patch in a couloir. Then along the couloir (insurance!) to a large snowfield and down it. Then exit left along grassy slopes and scree to a trail and along it to the bivouac. The route from bivouac to traverse and back to bivouac takes 8–9 hours.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in a group — no more than 8 people.
2. Initial bivouac — lower Sulakhatskaya nochevka.
3. Departure time from bivouac — no later than 5:00.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope — 2×30 m; b) expendable cordelette — 2–3 m; c) rock pitons — 4; d) ice pitons — 3 (in the second half of summer); e) rock hammers — 2; f) carabiners — 8; g) crampons 4 pairs (in the second half of summer).
5. Possible bivouac locations on the North, Central summits and under the South summit.