Overnight stay at the GMS station on the Roluбина glacier, crossing the glacier, approach to the slopes of p. Ала-Арча near a large moraine.

Start of the route:

• Along the scree shelf to the red gendarme on the right side.
• Then up the steep snowy couloir with a stone plug at the top, entering the shelf between the gendarme and the wall (30 m, 40–45°, Cat. diff.).
• Traverse along the scree side of the ridge — 50 m, Cat. diff.
• Ascend medium-difficulty rocks to the control point — 10 m, Cat. diff.
• Then straight up medium-difficulty rocks under the wall (80 m, Cat. diff.).
• Up the wall with piton belay, exit to the main shelf (40 m, 70°; III–IV cat. diff.).
• After the shelf, bypassing the gendarme on the left — ascend to the ridge, 120 m, II cat. diff.
• Enter left-up onto the shoulder of the gendarme with piton belay along indistinct rock relief (40 m, 65°, II cat. diff.).
• Along the sharp ridge right-up, bypassing the gendarme on the left, exiting onto a small shelf — 30 m, II–III cat. diff.
• Then with alternating belay — exit onto the heavily damaged part of the ridge with snowy drifts (organization of horizontal ropes — 30 m).
• Along the heavily damaged sharp ridge — to the pre-summit red gendarme (80 m, 20–25°, II–III cat. diff.).
• Around the pre-summit gendarme on the right along the inner corner — ascend with piton belay along icy rocks to the stone plug (45 m, 60–65°, IV cat. diff., ropes).
• After the stone plug — left with piton belay, enter the pre-summit tower (40 m, 50°, II cat. diff.).
• Then along a narrow inclined shelf — 15 m left, then up heavily damaged rocks — exit right 20 m to the inclined shelf (40–45°, II cat. diff.).
• Along the inner corner — exit up to the shelf with piton belay, 15 m, and then along scree shelves — exit to the summit, 40 m.

Descent from the summit to scree shelves with subsequent organization of a leader's rappel — along the ascent route 20 m. Second rappel (40 m) — to a large snowy shelf. Along the shelf left towards the ridge — descend into the couloir. Then, crossing a series of small couloirs, staying on the right part of the wall, descend into the last snowy couloir and exit onto the Goluбин glacier.

Approximate time breakdown:

• approach from the start of the route to the initial point — 1 h,
• exit to the control cairn — 40 min,
• exit to the summit — 5 h,
• descent to the glacier — 2 h.

List of equipment used (for a group of 5 people):