Ascent Passport

1. Digoria, Rocky Range, Classification section number — 2.6.
2. Muldzugi-Barzond (3064 m); from the West via the Northern ridge.
3. Proposed category: 1B; first ascent.
4. The route is of a rocky nature.
5. Height difference of the route — 350 m. Route length is about 900 m. Average steepness:

• main part of the route: up to 60°.
• entire route: 30°.

6. Insurance on the route is provided by rock formations.

As­cent time 5–6 hours.

Route rec­om­men­da­tion.

When pass­ing through the glacier to the saddle, it is nec­es­sary to keep a close watch on the stones fall­ing from the slopes of Na­khab­i­ta. Melon at any time of day.

2. When mak­ing the as­cent in one day, the group should have good phys­i­cal and tech­ni­cal train­ing. Leave the foot of "Na­khab­i­ta" not later than 4:00 am. If the group's train­ing is weak, they should over­night on the saddle.
3. The group should have: cram­pons, ice axes, main ropes, 4–5 ice screws and 2–3 rock pitons, pieces of rope for 2–3 slings.

57. Sugan False — South (combined route, category III, Fig. 12). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4-8 people) to the summit of False Sugan is described in route 46. From the summit, descend via simple and moderately difficult rocks of the South ridge to the col. From the col, traverse via simple and moderately difficult, heavily destroyed rocks on the left side of the ridge ("live" stones — piton belay) bypass the rock "saw" consisting of several sharp gendarmes and reach the col. Then:

• overcome the I gendarme directly via moderately difficult rocks;
• descend to the col below the summit ascent of South Sugan;
• from the col, via steep, moderately difficult rocks of the North ridge (piton

Ascent Log

1. Ascent type: rock
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, 26
3. Peak, its height, and route — Suganbashi, 4450 m via the right part of the NE wall
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics elevation gain — 1060 average steepness — 75 ° length of sections: I — 80 m, II — 290 m, III — 480 m, IV — 300 m
6. Number of anchors used for belays to create FTO:

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Route Description

R0–R1 (when ascending from Gebi valley): The path from the Western side is easier to navigate and access the Northern ridge. From the overnight stays at the bottom of the valley, we head East, ascending the Western slope of Chirh ridge. We need to go up to the right along the scree slope, orienting towards the right edge of the central part of Chirh ridge, to the rightmost standalone tower - this is at 3505 m. There are still a number of rock gendarmes to the right of it, but they are lower in height. Along the scree couloir, and in the upper part - along the rocks on its right side, we go up towards the col between the peaks of Ev. Goluba (3503 m) on the left and 300 years of St. Petersburg (3505 m) on the right. Before reaching the col, we divert to the right along rocky ledges and walls between them onto the rocks to the right of the narrow couloir; and exit onto the Northern ridge of peak 3505 m. The entire section is about 900 m. From the overnight stays, it takes 3-4 hours. R1–R2: Along the Northern ridge to 3505 m, mostly on its right side, ascend 20 m along rocks of 2nd category difficulty. To the right of the narrow ridge:

• traverse of 4th category difficulty; 70°; 2 m. After that, another 25 m; 1-2 category difficulty, and ascend to peak 3505 m - 300 years of St. Petersburg. The entire section is about 50 m; 40-50°. There are no signs of human presence on the summit. The summit is a good panoramic point. Descent is via the ascent route.

Route Description

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Digoria, Chirh ridge, section number 2.6.
2. Chirh – 3515 m; via the North Ridge.
3. Category 2A is proposed; first ascent.
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Route height difference – 700 m (from the base of the ridge). Route length — 280 m (from the point of exit onto the North Ridge, from point R1). Length of sections with category 4 difficulty – 5 m. Steepness of the main part of the route — 80 °. Average steepness of the entire route is around 30 °.
6. Pitons left on the route — none. Total equipment used on the route:

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category: rock.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus; 2,6; Sugansky Ridge.
3. Peak, route: p. 3661 (3661 m) from the East via the couloir.
4. Expected category of difficulty: 2A rock; p/p.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 500 m. Route length — 750 m. Section lengths: 4th cat. diff. — 10 m. 3rd cat. diff. — 40 m. 2nd cat. diff. — 150 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 50°.
6. Pitons hammered: 2 pcs.
7. Number of climbing hours/days — 5 h/1 day.

To the Alpine Federation of Russia.

The Classification Commission of the FAR of Alania sends a report on the first ascent made by the climbers of the Mountain Club of SKGMI "Krokus" from Vladikavkaz on peak 3661 (3661 m) via the South wall on August 1, 2012. The route was preliminarily assessed as category 3A.

Report

On the first ascent to peak 3661 (3661 m) via the South wall, approximately category 3A, made by the climbers of the Mountain Club of SKGMI "Krokus" from Vladikavkaz on August 1, 2012. Under the leadership of Yuri Vasilyevich Levkovsky. address: 362035, Alania, Vladikavkaz, pr. Kosta — 273/69, uvl53@yandex.ru

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent type: rock
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Sugansky ridge, 2,6

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT MULDZUGI — BARZOND (3064 m) VIA THE ROUTE CATEGORY IIIB BY THE FRI-LINE CLUB TEAM May 18, 2019 Pyatigorsk

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information

1.1 Team Leader: Popov M.L. Candidate Master of Sports

Fig. 57

1. Ascent to the peak Perednyaya Chotcha (3637 m) via the counterfort of the northern wall — category 4B difficulty (fig. 57)

From Dombay plain by car to the Severny shelter. From the Severny shelter:

• via a log across the Khokel river
• further along the trail on the left side of the Chotcha gorge to the snowy couloir under the northern wall of the Chotcha peak Ascent:
• up the middle of the couloir to its middle part
• then via the "ram's foreheads" and uncomplicated rocks