I. Category of ascent	— technical
2. Area of ascent	— Western Caucasus, Krasnodar Krai up to Marukh pass
3. Peak, its height and ascent route	— Mt. Fisht, 2867 m, via north-eastern ridge
4. Proposed complexity category	2B
5. Route characteristics:
a). height difference	1167 m
b). average steepness	50° (excluding sections on snow plateau)
c). length of sections	— I — 240 m; II — 540 m; III — 305 m; IV — 160 m

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT NADEZHDA VIA THE NORTHERN SLOPE ROUTE, CATEGORY 2A COMPLEXITY, BY THE TEAM OF RSOO "FAM" MOSCOW, JULY 26, 2023 2024

I. Climbing Report Details

№	1. General Information
1.1	Leader's Full Name, Sports Rank	Murashova Olga Dmitrievna, 3rd sports rank
1.2	Participants' Full Names, Sports Ranks	Pruyak Roman Valerievich, 1st sports rank
1.3	Coach's Full Name	-
1.4	Organization	RSFO "FAM" Moscow

Ascent to the summit Maly Akshuat from the east - 2B cat. sl. From the bivouac on the false pass to the left along the shelves exit to the Khamurza pass. From the pass 15–20 m straight up along the ridge. Further to the left-up along the crack 6–8 m to the inclined shelf (hook!) and then ascent to the left of the ridge along the shelves, crossing a number of loose couloirs, to the last gendarme in front of the summit. The entire path:

• is prone to rockfall
• requires careful insurance
• use hooks and ledges Bypass the gendarme to the right along the shelves, exit again to the left onto the ridge and along it to the

Alibek-bashi

Fig. 15

Ascent to the summit of Alibek-bashi (3782 m) - by difficulty category (Fig. 15)

From Dombayskaya polyana along the trail to Alibeksky glacier to the rocks of Razdelny peak — bivouac. From Dombayskaya polyana 3.5–4 hours. From the bivouac (in rope teams!) left-upwards, bypassing crevasses of the icefall and exit to the gentle part of the glacier. Depending on the state of the glacier, further ascent to the rocky spur of the Ertzog peak and left to the bergschrund under the slopes of Alibek-bashi or in the middle of the glacier upwards, then left to the bergschrund under the slopes of Alibek-bashi. Then through the bergschrund and ascent

Fig. 18

1. Ascent to the summit of Zadnaya Belalakaya (3740 m) — category 2A difficulty (fig. 18, A)

From Dombay plain across the bridge over the Alibek river and along the trail to the stream, descending from the large Belalakaya couloir. Cross the stream to the snowfield and ascend 300–350 m up. Then left into the Sofrujinsky couloir (rockfall hazard!) and up along it to a large overhanging rock. Further left-up along the steep section of the couloir to the trail and along it to the Medvezhья (Bear) clearing. From the Medvezhья clearing, first through alpine meadows (trail), then through snow and 300–350 m along the eastern slopes of Belalakaya to the Sofrujinsky bivouac. From Dombay plain 5–6 hours. From the bivouac (in rope teams!) along the Sofrujinsky glacier to the north-eastern ridge of Zadnaya Belalakaya. Exit to the ridge from the right in the lower part (bergschrund, protection!) and further to the right — up to the ridge saddle. From the saddle directly along the destroyed and loose rocks of the ridge to a ledge and along it to a couloir. Up the couloir to two rock outcrops left of the ridge inflection and exit to the ridge. Along the right side of the ridge up to the second outcrop of the crest. Behind it — to a wide couloir, then up to the ridge inflection and along the right side of the crest — exit to the summit.

• From the bivouac: 3–4 hours
• The entire route is rockfall hazardous!

Ascent Passport

1. Main Caucasus Range, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass, Ptysh river gorge, No. 2.2 according to KVGK.
2. Dombay Western peak, via the northwest wall cleft. The ascent is dedicated to the memory of climber-warriors who perished in the Caucasus mountains during the Great Patriotic War.
3. Proposed category of difficulty: 6B — first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route height difference: 1104 m. Route length: 1240 m. Length of sections: category V — 350 m, category VI — 460 m. Average slope: 82 ° for the main part of the route, 72 ° for the entire route.
6. Number of pitons left on the route: 25 total, including 21 bolts.

Fig.­ 1

3.­ Ascent to the summit Uzlovaya Kara-kaya (Zapadnaya Dvuushka, 3620­ m) from the Yuzhno-Karakaysky pass — category of difficulty (see Fig.­ 1)

From the Yuzhno-Karakaysky pass, first along a steep (45–50°) snowy slope, and then along the ledges upwards to the slab (protection!). Under the slab, along the ledges to the right and on the right side of the slab (piton protection!) — exit upwards to the ridge. Further along the right side of the ridge (simple rocks, but heavily destroyed, prone to rockfall!) — ascent to the ledge with several pinnacles. Under the ledge, exit to the left side of the ridge and along the moderately difficult rocks (protection through the ledges!) — ascent to the yellow ascent. Bypassing the yellow ascent first on the left 5–6 m, and then up the crack

Fig. 57

1. Ascent to the peak Perednyaya Chotcha (3637 m) via the counterfort of the northern wall — category 4B difficulty (fig. 57)

From Dombay plain by car to the Severny shelter. From the Severny shelter:

• via a log across the Khokel river
• further along the trail on the left side of the Chotcha gorge to the snowy couloir under the northern wall of the Chotcha peak Ascent:
• up the middle of the couloir to its middle part
• then via the "ram's foreheads" and uncomplicated rocks

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock
2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus (from Marukh pass to Makhar pass)
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Yubileynyy (3567 m) via the Western wall
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5A
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 475 m length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 245 m average steepness — 67°
6. Pitons hammered:

South-east, 1B cat.

From Dombai clearing or h/c "Alibek" along the trail and grassy slopes and talus exit under Khrustalny pass, traverse steep spurs of the eastern ridge of Semenov-Bashi peak. Place for a bivouac — 3–4 hours. From the bivouac:

• Along a gentle slope in the direction of Khrustalny pass and, 100–150 m before the pass, left up a branched couloir.
• Up the couloir to the eastern ridge. Rockfall hazard!
• Then left along the ridge to the summit. Gendarmes are bypassed mainly on the right, downhill.
• At the beginning of summer — snow cornices on the north.