REPORT on the first ascent via the North-North-West ridge Group of instructors from TALGAR alpine camp

Ponkratov	E. I.	1st category, leader
Zotov	A. V.	2nd category, participant
Shabrukov	V. I.	1st category — « — »
Gerost	V. P.	2nd category — « — »
Zhukov	N. A.	2nd category — « — »
Alma-Ata, 1977

TALGAR — main peak (5017 m)

8

Ascent to the Main peak of Talgar via the West wall, route 4B cat. difficulty (Fig. 41, 41a). From the Talgar mountaineering camp along the trail upstream along the Middle Talgar gorge to the Edelweiss glade. Turn towards the South Talgar glacier. It takes two hours to reach the glacier tongue. From here, along the right lateral moraine of the glacier, overcoming numerous crevices, there is an exit to a gently sloping (20°) glacier slope covered with small stones. Having ascended along this section of the glacier, exit to the left lateral moraine. Here is a possible overnight stay location. From here, the route begins. The path goes along an ice couloir, expanding in the upper part, with a steepness of 35–40°, and a length of about 450 m. The couloir leads to the ridge of the western counterfort of the South Talgar peak. On the left side, the couloir is bounded by ice-covered rocks, and on the right, it turns into ice walls. The ascent should be started from the left part of the couloir, along the ice slope, sticking to the rocks. Walk in crampons; in the upper part, step cutting is necessary. It takes 2 hours and 30 minutes to reach the ridge. Here is an overnight stay location. On the next day, the path begins with two ice ascents with a steepness of up to 50° and a length of about 500 m. In the upper part of the ascents, there is a small icefall. Walk the entire time in crampons. Crevices are not wide and are easily crossed. In some places, there is burned ice, requiring piton belay and step cutting. After 2–3 hours, there is an exit to an ice ascent, and then, after 15–20 minutes of walking along a descending snow-ice plateau, heading east, approach the base of the West wall of the Main Talgar peak.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent area: Zailiyskiy Ala-Tau 3. Peak: Tруд 4650 m via the left part of the West wall, first ascent. 4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B. 5. Route characteristics: Height difference 1010 m. Average steepness 65°. Total route length — 1190 m. Length of sections with 4th difficulty category — 330 m, 5th difficulty category — 480 m. 6. Pitons hammered: insurance and others

• Rock pitons — 27
• Ice pitons — 2

Tur (4350 m)

Traverse from southwest to east — category 2B (Fig. 2)

From the initial bivouac located near the terminal moraine of the Levyy Kaskelen glacier, head north towards the summit, which is clearly visible. Initially, it's convenient to follow the stream flowing from the glacier. After ascending the first moraine step, reach a small moraine lake and from there, traverse the fine and medium-sized, densely packed talus, interspersed with snowfields, to the depression in the western ridge of Tur peak. Fig. 2. After ascending the second moraine step, move to its lateral ridges, keeping close to the ridge leading from Tur peak. Continue moving along the moraine and then onto the glacier. After 700–800 m, the foot of the Burkut-tas pass (3900 m) is reached. The ascent to the pass via a steep (up to 50°) snowfield, spanning 300–500 m, leads under a cornice. Carefully cutting through it, exit onto the pass saddle. The journey from the bivouac to the pass takes 3–4 hours. From the pass, ascend to the summit via the southwest ridge. Initially, the rocks are of moderate difficulty (belaying is mandatory), with a significant drop on the right side. After 60–70 m of progress, the path is blocked by an 80-meter gendarme, which is overcome head-on. Characteristics of the passage:

• The number of holds is limited
• Belaying is via pitons (caution!)

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Climbing category — rock
2. Region — Northern Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Tuyuk-Su gorge.
3. Peak — Tuyuk-Su, 4218 m, eastern spur of the northern ridge, combined route.
4. Proposed complexity category — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m length — 900 m average steepness — 41° length of the wall section of the eastern spur — 370 m

Bypass the Маметовой rock from the left (in the direction of travel) on a trail, then bypass the massif of Учитель and Пионер peaks from the right and ascend to the Героев Панфиловцев pass along the scree. From the pass, ascend via a couloir that goes left towards the base of a chimney. R0–R1

• Ascend the chimney (15 m, II).
• The chimney is blocked by a chockstone; bypass it on the right and traverse right for a few meters.
• Station on a ledge. R1–R2
• Climb a wall (20 m, II) leftwards up to a ledge with pitons.

Peak Uchitel'

Via South-Western

Counterforce, 4B,

V. Shapovalov, 1978

Pass by the Southern wall of Pioner and immediately after it, turn left into the couloir. You need to be careful in the couloir - rocks may fall depending on the season. It's better to put on helmets even below Pioner. Ascend to the clearly visible counterforce, reach its lower part via a snowpatch lying to the left. R0–R1: From the ledge, along the outer edge, 35-40 meters to the next ledge. R1–R2: From the ledge, upwards to the right across the slabs. A small wall, about two meters (90°), then it flattens out again. R3–R4: Either onto the wall to the right or into the couloir to the left. Either way, it "squeezes" out onto the ridge. R4–R5: The ridge abuts a wall about three meters high. The wall is not difficult, and there are ledges behind it.

Fizkulturnik - Chkalova, traverse, category 2B

Route description

From the initial bivouac in the Talgar Pass area, move along the Bogdanovich Glacier towards the saddle between Peak Komsomola and Fizkulturnik peak. From there, ascend to the ridge of Fizkulturnik peak, approach its base, and ascend to the southeastern summit. After descending, move along a relatively easy ridge towards the western summit of the Fizkulturnik massif. After ascending and descending from it, cross the cirque and ascend to the northeastern summit of Fizkulturnik. Then, the ridge, gradually rising, leads to the main summit. From it, descend to a sub-summit and continue descending to the left. The first gendarme after the main summit can be overcome directly or bypassed from the southern side (cautiously!). When ascending to the saddle between the first and second gendarmes, the section is hazardous (rockfall), and the rocks are heavily destroyed. The second gendarme is taken directly with thorough belaying. When descending from it, belaying is necessary; it is also possible to bypass it from the right - only if there is a deep snow cover closing the crevices. The following sections of the route:

• A gentle snow plateau in the upper reaches of the Til Glacier;
• Ascend between groups of rocks along snow-covered slabs;
• Move to the saddle between Fizkulturnik and Chkalova peaks;

Ascent Passport

1. North Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Malo-Almatinsky spur
2. Peak Kholodnye Perya (3850 m), via the center of the South Face
3. Category III complexity
4. Route type — rock climbing
5. Route height difference — 180 m Route length — 256 m Length of sections:

• Category V complexity — 3 meters Average steepness:
• main part of the route — 75 degrees
• entire route — 55 degrees

2. Traverse of Sulakhat summit from north to south — 2A cat. diff. (see Fig. 7)

From the northern summit, left and down into the pass. Then along the ridge (insurance through ledges!) to the control cairn. From the cairn, descend to the right along the crevice to a shelf and along it (piton insurance!) to the next ridge saddle. Then along the ridge to a 30-meter wall. Descend along it to the ridge. From the ridge, descend to the right to a shelf and then along the ridge to the base of the South summit. Ascent to the South summit along the ridge. Descent from the South summit to the right along a gully (insurance!) to a shelf and along it to exit to a narrow snow patch in a couloir. Then along the couloir (insurance!) to a large snowfield and down it. Then exit left along grassy slopes and scree to a trail and along it to the bivouac. The route from bivouac to traverse and back to bivouac takes 8–9 hours.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in a group — no more than 8 people.
2. Initial bivouac — lower Sulakhatskaya nochevka.
3. Departure time from bivouac — no later than 5:00.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope — 2×30 m; b) expendable cordelette — 2–3 m; c) rock pitons — 4; d) ice pitons — 3 (in the second half of summer); e) rock hammers — 2; f) carabiners — 8; g) crampons 4 pairs (in the second half of summer).
5. Possible bivouac locations on the North, Central summits and under the South summit.