Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class - technical.
2. Ascent area - South-Western Pamir, Shugnan Range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak 4900 m, via the SE counterfort.
4. Proposed difficulty category - 5A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference - 1050 m, length of sections with 5-6 cat. diff. - 555 m, average steepness - 69°.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying: for creating ITO:
   • rock - 72 (for belaying), 4 (for creating ITO)
   • ice (including into rocks) - 20 (for belaying), 1 (for creating ITO)

Ascent Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Mugovek gorge, section 6.1.
2. Opasnaya peak, 3150 m, via the South face of the South-Eastern buttress.
3. Proposed 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock climbing.
5. Height difference 500 m, length 778 m, average steepness 55°.
6. Pitons hammered in: rock and chock stones 75 pieces.
7. Team's travel hours — 18 hours.
8. No overnight stays on the route.
9. Group:

Ascent Log

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltcy ridge, Dождевое valley, section 6.1.
2. Bronenosets peak, 2430 m, via the Left buttress of the Western wall.
3. Proposed 4A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock climbing.
5. Elevation gain 190 m, length 242 m, average slope 55°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock and wired 40 pcs.
7. Team's walking hours – 9 h.
8. No overnight stays on the route.
9. Group:

Climbing Report on the First Ascent

Kupol Peak (2954 m)

Via the Central Counterfort of the North Face. Route category 5B (proposed), first ascent Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai gorge, 6.1 Team leader: Klepikov A.A. Team member: Afanasyeva A.A. Trainer: Afanasyev 2007

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai gorge, 6.1.
2. Kupol Peak (2954 m), Central counterfort of the North Face.
3. Proposed category 5B — first ascent.
4. Route type: rock climbing.
5. Route height difference: 656 m

Photo 2. Third rope.

The leader on the section R11–R12, 5 m from the belay station. Passing the crack — chimney, difficult climbing, smoothed rocks, steepness 65°. The photo is taken from the belay station at R9.

Photo 3. Fourth rope.

The leader at point R15. Passed:

• a vertical wall
• then 20 m internal corner. The photo is taken from the belay station at R12.

Photo 4. Fifth rope.

Passport

1. Class of first ascents.
2. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai gorge, 6.1.
3. V. Kupol via the North face of the East shoulder, 2955 m.
4. Proposed 6A category of difficulty, first ascent. The nature of the route is rocky.
5. Height difference: total route – 554 m, wall part – 425 m; length: total route – 730 m, wall part – 461 m, overhanging part ("blade") – 141 m; length of sections: 6th category of difficulty – 207 m, 5th category of difficulty – 145 m; average steepness of the wall part of the route — 79°.
6. "Hooks" left: total – 13, including pitons – 8; used: chocks – 82/67, rock pitons – 96/56, ice screws – 4, pitons – 10/5, including removable – 2/1; total artificial aids used – 128.
7. Team's climbing hours – 49, days – 6 (1 – processing, 5 – route).
8. Overnights – 4 in hammocks.
9. Team leader: Afanasyev A.E. (MS); participant: Khandazhapov B.A. (CMS).

Russian Championship in Alpinism

High-Altitude Technical Class 2020

Report

on the ascent to Peak Kupol, 2954 m, via the V plecha wall, 6A category of complexity, Afanasiev's route, by the team from Krasnoyarsk, August 13, 2020.

I. Ascent Passport

Ascent Report

Monakh Peak (2800 m)

Route via the South Counterfort, category 4A (proposed), first ascent. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1 Team Leader: Kle­pi­kov A.A. Participants:

• Il'inskiy V.A.
• Shcherban' A.N.
• Sha­ki­rov D.I. Ascent Details

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1.

6.2 Western Sayan Golova, 1970 m, 5A, via the center of the SW wall Prokofiev D.E. July 10, 2013

Ascent Record

1. Region — Sayan Mountains, Western Sayan
2. Peak — Golova, 1970 m, via the center of the SW wall. 5A.
3. Assumed — 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock
5. Route description: elevation gain — 350 m. route length — 445 m. length of 6th category sections — 100 m. length of 4th category sections — 345 m. average slope — 57°, main part 70°
6. Equipment left on the route: total 0

I. Technical difficulty category 2. Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge 3. Peak Dzhadlyk via the West counterfort of the Western ridge 4533. 4. Proposed — 4th category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 700 m, length — 1025 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 7° (3870–4350), including 6th category of difficulty — 85° (3870–3900) 90° (3930–3940), 90° (4140–4155), 85° (4170 — traverse 20 m) 6. Pitons hammered in: rock (65+5ˣ)/12 6/4