57. Sugan False — South (combined route, category III, Fig. 12). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4-8 people) to the summit of False Sugan is described in route 46. From the summit, descend via simple and moderately difficult rocks of the South ridge to the col. From the col, traverse via simple and moderately difficult, heavily destroyed rocks on the left side of the ridge ("live" stones — piton belay) bypass the rock "saw" consisting of several sharp gendarmes and reach the col. Then:

• overcome the I gendarme directly via moderately difficult rocks;
• descend to the col below the summit ascent of South Sugan;
• from the col, via steep, moderately difficult rocks of the North ridge (piton

56. Sugan Yuzhny — Lozhny (combined route, category III, Fig. 12). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–8 people) to the summit of Yuzhny Sugan is described in route 47. From the summit, descend via a simple snow-covered rocky couloir on the right side of the Northern ridge. Descent along the ridge is also possible but more difficult. From the couloir, traverse steep, partially broken, medium-difficulty (belay required) rocks on the right side of the ridge to reach a saddle below the I gendarme. Overcome the gendarme directly via simple and medium-difficulty rocks to the second saddle. From the saddle, traverse simple and medium-difficulty broken rocks on the right side of the ridge («live» stones — belay required) to bypass the rocky «saw» — several

59. Sugan Maly — Uzlovoy (V. Popov's combined route, cat. 5A, fig. 11). The path from the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu river (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on the scree of the wide snow plateau of the Sugan ridge saddle between the peaks Suganbashi on the left and Maly Sugan on the right is described in route 35. From the base camp — 8–10 hours. The path from the "Nakhashbita" glade to the initial bivouac via the Doppakh pass takes:

• 1–2 days (see routes 17, 22, 26, 28). From the bivouac, along the snow plateau, bypassing the Southeast ridge of the Central Sugan peak on the right, approach the snowy slope of the wide couloir descending from the upper part of the Southeast ridge of the massif to the plateau. Overcoming the bergschrund, perform a 200 m ascent, sticking to the rocks, along the steep ice-snow slope (running belay). Then:
• ascend 40 m along the wet slabs (running belay) to the Southeast ridge of Maly Sugan;
• turn right;
• ascend 160 m along the heavily destroyed rocks of the ridge with numerous gendarmes;

Fig. 9 36. Suganbashi via North-Eastern Ridge (combined route by M. Lepnev, 3B cat. diff., Fig. 9). From the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu River, near the tongue of the Nakhashbita Glacier (group of 4-8 people), ascend along the moraine ridge into the gorge. Then exit right onto the Nakhashbita Glacier, cross it upwards to the right, and approach the right side of the North-Eastern ridge of Suganbashi peak. Approach route:

• From the base camp - 3-4 hours.
• From the "Nakhashbita" clearing - via Doppakh or Sugan pass (described in routes 17, 22, 26, 28). On the Nakhashbita Glacier, below the North-Eastern ridge of Suganbashi, is the initial bivouac. From the glacier, ascend a gently sloping 600-800-meter snow slope upwards to the left, towards a small snow patch in the central part of the rocky belt of the North-Eastern ridge. From the slope, ascend 120-150 m straight up, through steep, smooth rocks of medium difficulty with numerous ledges and cracks (pitched protection) to the snow patch.

To the Io dio-true pass from the Sutan pass.

combined, 5B difficulty category From the "Nakhashbita" clearing, traversing the rusty talus slopes of the Nakhashbita and Doppakh massifs, exit onto the Doppakh glacier. Time — 1.5–2 hours. When moving along the moraine, beware of possible rockfalls from the Doppakh massif. Further, heading N-N-E in the direction of the deep saddle between the peaks of Sushan-Bashi and Doppakh Glavny (Sugdsky pass), bypass two small glaciers from the right (by direction) along snowy-icy slopes with steepness up to 40–45°, cut by crevasses (photo 23). Time — 1.5–2 hours. In this section, a fast pace and careful observation of the right (by direction) slope are necessary due to frequent rockfalls. This section should be passed before 10:00, as later the slope starts to warm up under the sun. From the second glacier, do not go to the right onto an inclined rocky shelf under the wall of the Doppakh massif due to possible rockfalls. The ascent to the Sugansky pass is carried out along a narrow steep (up to 60°) rocky couloir, located to the left of the inclined shelf. Here, piton belay is necessary (4–6 pieces). The upper half of the couloir is wide and heavily destroyed. Having reached the pass point, ascend in a northwestern direction (60–80 m) to control cairn No. along the talus, then after 40–50 m — to a convenient, wind-protected site, where a night's stay is organized. Water is available near the pass saddle in the warm time of day. From the "Nakhashbita" clearing to the overnight stay at the pass, it takes 5–7 hours of walking. The height gain from the Doppakh glacier to the pass is 620 m.

You can pass it on the left along a 65-meter inner corner turning into a chimney with a steepness of 75–80°. The rocks are very difficult, smoothed, there are few cracks, thin or drilled pitons are necessary. After the inner corner, there follow difficult rocks (60–70 m) of the ridge, leading to the ruined easy rocks of the upper part of a wide couloir descending to the east. The rock wall can be passed on the right (along the route), for which, before reaching the wall, cross to the right a talus slope (50–60 m) with small patches of snow and reach a clearly visible rocky ledge in the form of an inclined slab at the base of the wall. From here, along very difficult smoothed rocks with a steepness of 70–90°,

Ascent Record

No. 63

1. Ascent category - rock climbing
2. Ascent region - Kovkoz, 26
3. Peak, its elevation, and route Suganbashi 4450, northeastern wall, field part.
4. Estimated difficulty category - 5B
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain - 950 m average steepness - 65°

56 63

Report

On the third ascent of the route to V. Suganbashi via the left part of the Upper wall (by A. Zadorozhny)

Rostov-on-Don

1977

Protocol

of the analysis of the ascent to the Suganbashi peak via the route of 5B cat. diff., made by the group of participants of the "Digoria" tourist camp on August 19–23, 1977. Present: Head of the training department, Master of Sports of International Class — D.D. Arcishevsky

Ascent Log

1. Ascent type: rock
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, 26
3. Peak, its height, and route — Suganbashi, 4450 m via the right part of the NE wall
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics elevation gain — 1060 average steepness — 75 ° length of sections: I — 80 m, II — 290 m, III — 480 m, IV — 300 m
6. Number of anchors used for belays to create FTO:

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category: winter.
2. Climbing area: Caucasus, Sugan Range.
3. Peak, route: Sugan-Bashi (4450 m), via the North-Eastern wall.
4. Complexity category: 6A.
5. Height difference:
   • including the actual wall part — 1060 m (excluding the ice fall)
   • sections with a steepness of 90° and above — 270 m
   • total route length — 1270 m