To the Io dio-true pass from the Sutan pass.

combined, 5B difficulty category

From the "Nakhashbita" clearing, traversing the rusty talus slopes of the Nakhashbita and Doppakh massifs, exit onto the Doppakh glacier. Time — 1.5–2 hours.

When moving along the moraine, beware of possible rockfalls from the Doppakh massif.

Further, heading N-N-E in the direction of the deep saddle between the peaks of Sushan-Bashi and Doppakh Glavny (Sugdsky pass), bypass two small glaciers from the right (by direction) along snowy-icy slopes with steepness up to 40–45°, cut by crevasses (photo 23). Time — 1.5–2 hours.

In this section, a fast pace and careful observation of the right (by direction) slope are necessary due to frequent rockfalls. This section should be passed before 10:00, as later the slope starts to warm up under the sun.

From the second glacier, do not go to the right onto an inclined rocky shelf under the wall of the Doppakh massif due to possible rockfalls. The ascent to the Sugansky pass is carried out along a narrow steep (up to 60°) rocky couloir, located to the left of the inclined shelf. Here, piton belay is necessary (4–6 pieces). The upper half of the couloir is wide and heavily destroyed. Having reached the pass point, ascend in a northwestern direction (60–80 m) to control cairn No. along the talus, then after 40–50 m — to a convenient, wind-protected site, where a night's stay is organized. Water is available near the pass saddle in the warm time of day. From the "Nakhashbita" clearing to the overnight stay at the pass, it takes 5–7 hours of walking. The height gain from the Doppakh glacier to the pass is 620 m.

The further path to the summit goes in a northwestern direction along a steep rocky ridge with a height gain of 720 m. Time — 9–10 hours of intense work on the rocks.

From the overnight stay:

• Approach the first rocky wall (90 m) with alternating belays along difficult rocks. Climb it carefully due to large falling boulders.
• Further, after difficult rocks (60 m), a 45-meter chimney-like crack with a steepness of 60–65° begins.
• The rocks are difficult; thin pitons are necessary.
• Then, along rocks of medium difficulty (120–150 m), approach a large overhanging wall in the main ridge.