Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, northern spur of the Main Caucasian Range, key peak of the Adyrsu, Tyutyusu, and Chegem gorges area.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: DJAILYK, 4533 m, rock route, via the left part of the Western wall of the South ridge shoulder.
4. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m, average steepness 70°, length of sections of V difficulty category – 45 m, VI difficulty category – 120 m.
5. Estimated difficulty category: – 5B.
6. Pitons hammered:
   • for belay
     • rock: 32
     • bolt: 42

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Climbing category: technical.
2. Climbing area: Central Caucasus, northern spur of the Main Caucasian Range, a key peak in the Adyr-su, Tyutyu-su, and Chegem valleys area.
3. Peak, its height, climbing route: Djailyk, 4533 m — rocky route via the left part of the Western wall of the South ridge shoulder.
4. Category of difficulty: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 550 m, average slope 75°; section lengths: 2nd difficulty category 200 m, 3rd–4th 215 m plus traverse to the summit; 5th and 6th difficulty category 145 m.
6. Pitons hammered in: rock pitons: for belay — 16, for R.P.E. — 20; chocks: for belay — 22, for R.P.E. — 28.
7. Number of climbing hours — 19.

North Caucasian Federal District and Southern Federal District Alpine Climbing Championship, Altitude-Technical Category

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Dzhailyk via the left part of the 3rd wall of the southern ridge shoulder (Li route) Category 5B complexity by the team from Rostov Oblast from July 24 to July 25, 2024

I. Ascent Passport

Passport

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing region — Caucasus, Adyr-Su valley
3. Mt. Dzhailyk, via the Central counterfort of the South wall (Khazkevich's route)
4. Difficulty category — 5B
5. Height difference — 600 m Height difference of the wall section — 300 m, route length — 1137 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 202 m, average steepness of the wall section — 80°
6. Pitons used: rock, bolt, ice, and chock placements: 38/3, 4×, 1+2×, 49/6× (reuse of previously driven pitons)
7. Travel time: — 8.5 hours, days — 1

Tina­yyol ha­ya­ra­ra MAPUPST From the upper Kpchkpdarsky bivouacs, crossing the Zapadnыy — Su glacier, we approach the summit of Dhaidik from the west, to a narrow snowy ascent, where the route begins.

• In the lower part of the couloir (20–40 m) we ascend via a large jammed stone. We overhang this stone on the left (possibly on the right).
• Along the right -300 wall of the couloir, we ascend to its upper part (40 m).
• In the upper part, we move to the left side of the couloir onto a steep ledge (psychological moment). Insurance is through a crook. The transition is carried out by stepping over the couloir.

Moscow Alpinism Championship

High-Altitude Technical Class

Ascent Report

To the peak Dzhailyk, 4424 m, via 1st South buttress, 3rd rib by Frantsuzov's route Team KAiS MPEI Moscow, 2017

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, northern spur of the Main Caucasian Range, branching off from Mestia-tau peak, Dzhailyk node between Donkin and Kilar passes, section number according to the classification table 2.4.1.
2. Dzhailyk peak 4424 m via 1st South buttress, 3rd rib (Frantsuzov's route 1970).
3. Difficulty category: 5B.

Report of the Rostov Region team on the ascent to the summit of Jailyk (4424) via the 1st South Bastion of the Western Edge "Franzuzov's Route" 5B

1. Ascent Passport

1. Region: Caucasus, 2.4.1. From Gumachi pass to Kitlod pass (Adyrsu, Lekzyr, Chegem valleys);
2. Peak, route: Jailyk 4424 m via the 1st South Bastion of the Western Edge "Franzuzov's Route" 1970;
3. Category: 5B;
4. Route type: rock;
5. Route height difference: 670 m; Route length: 905 m
   • Length of sections: V category — 180 m
   • Length of sections: VI category — 80 m

North-West Federal District Championship in Alpinism (high-altitude technical class)

Climbing Report

on the ascent of Dzhailik peak (4424 m) via 1st S buttress of 3 rib (M. Franzuzov's route, 1970, 5B grade) The route was completed on August 5, 2024. Participants:

• Yakuba
• Nikolai
• Chetverikov
• Denis

Contents

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technically challenging. 2. Ascent area — Main Caucasian Ridge and its spurs from Chipperazau Pass to Ortokara peak, Adyrkh spur, Dzhaulyak. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Dzhaulyak, 4533 m, via the eastern wall. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 590 m, average steepness — 75 °, length of sections with 5th cat. diff. – 83 m. 6. Pitons driven: * rock: for belaying — 43, for creating I.T.O. – 34 * ice: for belaying — 2, for creating I.T.O. – 1 * bolt: for belaying — 1, for creating I.T.O. – 4

Description of the First Ascent of Peak "4020" (Peak A. Zyuzin)

1. Historical Background

Alexander Semenovich Zyuzin (1903–1970), an outstanding Soviet mountaineer, Honored Master of Sports, and one of the founders of mountaineering in Ukraine. He was a mountaineering instructor since 1934, organizer of the first student mountaineering expedition to Elbrus in 1936, founder of the "Stal" alpine camp in the Adyrsu gorge on the Central Caucasus, and head of the training department of the All-Union School of Mountaineering Instructors, Ukrainian School of Instructors, and others. Since 1937, he was the creator and first chairman of the Dnepropetrovsk regional section (federation) of mountaineering, a member of the presidiums of the All-Union and Ukrainian sections (federations) of mountaineering. In 1937, he was awarded the title of Master of Sports in mountaineering, and in 1947, he was awarded the honorary title of Honored Master of Sports of the USSR in mountaineering. A.M. Zyuzin, a scientist-geodesist, is credited with the first research and mapping of many mountainous regions of the Central Caucasus, including Adyrsu, Tyutyusu, Sugan, and Tepli. In these regions, he made numerous first ascents and first passages between 1937 and 1947. In particular, in the Adyrsu-Tyutyusu region, he first conquered the peaks of Orubashi, Kenchat, Kayarta, and others, and passed new routes on Adyrsu-bashi and others. In the Sullukol gorge region, A.M. Zyuzin made the first ascents and gave names to Peak Stal (3855 m) and Termen-bashi (3950 m). To commemorate the centenary of A.M. Zyuzin's birth, the SOAB "Ullutau" together with the mountaineering expedition of the Dnepropetrovsk regional mountaineering federation decided to organize the first ascent to the peak "4020 m" in the Sullukol gorge, located between the peaks Stal and Termen, discovered by A.M. Zyuzin, and propose to name this peak "Peak Zyuzin".

2. Geographical Characteristics