Bodoruku

EASTERN

Dea­lyk 0-yuga to WB through the glacier 3B cat. sl.

Ae­bou

The path from the "Dea­lyk" a/l to the bridge, then along the right bank of the Kullum-Kol river to the terminal moraine, along which they ascend and exit onto glacier 10. Pnom-Su, then along its right (orographic) side to the confluence of glaciers 3. and 10. Pnom-Su. The glacier is open, with few crevices. Further from the Kichkid. camps, located at the confluence of glaciers:

• along the tongue of glacier 3. Pnom-Su to the e. Kichkid. camps.
• From the E. K. camps — the path is in the direction of Donkin pass along simple snowy ascents.

Jailyk via the East Ridge (I. Yukhin's route, cat. 4A)

The path from the Adylsu alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) through the Tyutyusu gorge to the initial bivouac at the upper part of the left-bank moraine of the Tyutyusu glacier is described in routes 184 and 188. From the initial bivouac on the moraine:

• Turn left and exit onto the snowy West counterfort descending from the East Ridge of Jailyk peak into the Tyutyusu gorge.
• Ascend the snowy, gently sloping ridge of the counterfort with several steep rises.
• Then move to the snow-ice slope (avalanches!) and continue ascending to the East Ridge of Jailyk peak. On the East Ridge:
• Turn right here.
• Move along simple and moderately difficult rocks, partly along a narrow snowy ridge (snowcornices!), and reach the base of the rocky ascent of the East gendarme.
• Overcome the gendarme directly via steep, crumbling, moderately difficult rocks of the ridge.

¹

1. DIFFICULT ROCK FORMATIONS
2. "КО­НЕК" (the "horse" or ridge)
3. SHELF ("POLKA")

The summit of Dzhailyk has a 4B category of difficulty, the nature of the route is combined. The summit of Dzhailyk is located on the sixth north-western Adyr spur. To the east of Dzhailyk (in the eastern branch) lies the summit of Cheget-bashi, to the south lies the summit of Kichkidar, and to the west lies the summit of Tyu. The summit of Dzhailyk is surrounded by glaciers: the eastern and western ones, as well as the northern Pnom-Su. Three ridges branch out from the summit of Dzhailyk:

• to the Donkina pass,
• the eastern one - towards the glacier of the summit Dzhailyk Kinchat,
• the western one - turning into a long rocky fence, separating the glaciers of the western Dzhailyk and the northern Pnom-Su. To the north-east, Dzhailyk drops with sheer walls and steep slopes, falling into the ridge between the massifs of Dzhailyk and Tyu-Tyu-S. The route begins with an overnight stay on the Black Rocks in their branch from the western ridge to Dzhailyk, in the form of a short, barely noticeable rocky ridge. From the overnight site, it goes towards the main western ridge. At the beginning, the path goes along broken rocks to the first "gendarmes", which is bypassed on the left along a steep snow-ice slope. Above the "gendarmes" there is a snow shelf, then a simple rocky ridge of broken rocks begins. The length of this section of the ridge is 35-40 m. Having passed this ridge, they reach the second "gendarmes" with sheer walls to the north-west and east. This "gendarmes" is bypassed on the left along a snow-ice couloir. Having passed 35-40 m along the couloir, one should climb up a 5-meter sloping shelf, leading to a gentle slab. From the slab:

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REPORT

on the ascent to Mt. "Dzhailyk" (4533 m) via the Southwest Counterfort of the Western Ridge by the Dzhailyk Alpine Camp team (first ascent) Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich 1983 Alpine Camp "Dzhailyk" 360 000 Nalchik, P.O. Box 47 Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich 141 400 Moscow Region, Khimki, Aptechnaya St., 6, apt. 17 Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich

I. Technical difficulty category 2. Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge 3. Peak Dzhadlyk via the West counterfort of the Western ridge 4533. 4. Proposed — 4th category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 700 m, length — 1025 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 7° (3870–4350), including 6th category of difficulty — 85° (3870–3900) 90° (3930–3940), 90° (4140–4155), 85° (4170 — traverse 20 m) 6. Pitons hammered in: rock (65+5ˣ)/12 6/4

5 Imakouk

4533 m Hovebka №2 4350 m R19

• R17
• R18 R16
• R14­–R15
• R12­–R8

Dzhalyk via the North Face (M. Suponitsky's route, 5A cat. diff.) Initial bivouac — at the end of the left-bank moraine or on the upper snow plateau of the Tytju glacier opposite the North Face of Dzhalyk peak. From the bivouac:

• Across Tytju glacier, having passed the icefall, approach the left side of the steep ice-and-snow slope of the North Face of Dzhalyk peak.
• From the glacier, on the left side of this slope, ascend 100 m to the right side of the lower rock island of the North Face.
• Across simple snow-covered and ruined rocks of the island, 90–100 m straight up.
  • The island can be bypassed on the right across the ice-and-snow slope (avalanches, rockfall).
• From the island, across a steep 250–300-meter ice-and-snow slope, to the right of the rocks, ascend to a snow bowl beneath an overhanging rock wall.
  • Bivouac in the bowl.
  • From the initial bivouac 8–10 hours.