Dea­lyk 0-yuga to WB through the glacier 3B cat. sl.

Ae­bou

The path from the "Dea­lyk" a/l to the bridge, then along the right bank of the Kullum-Kol river to the terminal moraine, along which they ascend and exit onto glacier 10. Pnom-Su, then along its right (orographic) side to the confluence of glaciers 3. and 10. Pnom-Su. The glacier is open, with few crevices.

Further from the Kichkid. camps, located at the confluence of glaciers:

  • along the tongue of glacier 3. Pnom-Su to the e. Kichkid. camps.
  • From the E. K. camps — the path is in the direction of Donkin pass along simple snowy ascents.
  • Not reaching D., turning left to a false pass.
  • From the complex pass, descend 30–40 m and along a ledge that bypasses the rocky ridge, cross the couloir.
  • Along a not clearly expressed wide inner corner, exit onto the plateau.
  • From the plateau, go left onto ledges directed towards the snow field — here hook belay is necessary.
  • The exit from the ledges onto the snow field is the most difficult and dangerous section.
  • Passing along the field to the right along the rocks, we pass 3–4 ropes.
  • We exit to a large terrace, going towards the summit.
  • Along the terrace, we exit to a rocky "konik" ridge, which we pass with thorough belay.
  • The ridge leads to a rocky site with an inner corner, where a hook is driven (used for descent as a "dachshund").
  • From the site to the summit, the path is uncomplicated and passes along broken rocks.

The summit is a rocky slab on which a cairn is built.

From Donkin pass to the summit, 5–6 hours.

Equipment:

  • Main ropes — 2 pcs. × 30 m
  • Repschnur — 5 × 4 m
  • Rock hooks — 5 pcs.

Dhaa­aykhyk 4537 m

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Sources

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