Dzhalyk via the North Face (M. Suponitsky's route, 5A cat. diff.)

Initial bivouac — at the end of the left-bank moraine or on the upper snow plateau of the Tytju glacier opposite the North Face of Dzhalyk peak.

From the bivouac:

• Across Tytju glacier, having passed the icefall, approach the left side of the steep ice-and-snow slope of the North Face of Dzhalyk peak.
• From the glacier, on the left side of this slope, ascend 100 m to the right side of the lower rock island of the North Face.
• Across simple snow-covered and ruined rocks of the island, 90–100 m straight up.
  • The island can be bypassed on the right across the ice-and-snow slope (avalanches, rockfall).
• From the island, across a steep 250–300-meter ice-and-snow slope, to the right of the rocks, ascend to a snow bowl beneath an overhanging rock wall.
  • Bivouac in the bowl.
  • From the initial bivouac 8–10 hours.

From the bowl:

• Bypass the rocks overhanging the bowl across an ice-and-snow gully on the right and exit above them onto a small ledge.
• From the ledge straight up across difficult slab-like rocks (key point of the route) to an ice-and-snow slope.
• Across a not steep, with rock outcrops, ice-and-snow slope, ascend left onto an ice-and-snow saddle between rock walls.
  • From the bowl to the cairn 4.5–5 hours.
• From the saddle, traverse right across a snow slope to bypass an overhanging wall.
• Further, 50 m straight up across icy, smooth, difficult rocks onto an ice-and-snow slope.
• Across the slope, ascend towards an overhanging rock.
• From the rock, 10–12 m up-left across slabs, from them exit towards a narrow ice-and-snow gorge.
• Traverse the gorge across a 4-meter wall (most difficult section).
• From the gorge, 150–200 m up across an ice-and-snow slope onto a platform beneath a wall on a rocky cape.
  • Bivouac on the platform.
  • From the previous bivouac on the wall 7–9 hours.

From the platform:

• From the platform, across an ice-and-snow slope, exit towards an icy rocky gully.
• Across difficult rocks of the 5-meter gully, then across difficult rocks of the ridge:
  • Bypass a sharp sentinel on the right.
  • Bypass a monolithic wall on the left.
• Further, across an ice-and-snow ridge-slope, exit into a bowl beneath the ascent of the summit tower.
• From the bowl, with a 250–300-meter traverse up-left across an ice-and-snow slope-ledge and smooth slabs, exit into an ice-and-snow gully going up-right towards the summit.
• Across the gully, ascend 120–150 m onto the summit ridge and across it to the summit of Dzhalyk.
  • From the previous bivouac on the wall 8–10 hours.

Route description from Alexey Vasin's publication on Mountain.Ru