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АПАлексей ПотоцкийThe route starts from the upper cushion of the Uchitel glacier along the north face of Semenova Tian-Shanskogo peak to the right of the icefall. There are quite large ice crevasses on the approach to the bergschrund. From the bergschrund, the first 4.5 pitches are easy 55-degree ice until reaching a large ice ledge. From the ledge, another 5 pitches of the same ice lead to a small ledge before the rock section. The final part of the route begins along a 20 m rock couloir and then exits left onto a rock ridge. In the couloir and on the ridge, the terrain is heavily broken, the steepness is 40–50 degrees, Grade III rock (5b fr), protection using natural features. The section length is 80 m. Descent from the route, depending on conditions, is either via 3A Erapunova or via the ascent route.
ELEvgenii LepikhinVideo guide to the "Rechka" route (4B ice climbing grade) on Pik Baychechekhey with a demonstration of climbing the key wall.
Video guide to the "Rechka" route (Ilyushenko, ice 4B) on Peak Baychechekey by Dima Pavlenko. Captured work on the key wall.
ELEvgenii LepikhinVideo guide on ascending to Peak *Baychechekhey* via Polyak Route (Grade 5A, rock climbing) by experienced alpinist Dima Pavlenko.
Video guide for Polyak route (5A, rock climbing) on Peak Baychechekhey by Dima Pavlenko.
ELEvgenii LepikhinVideo guide to the "Kuzmenko" route (5A, rock climbing) on Peak Baychechekhey by experienced mountaineer Dima Pavlenko.
Video guide to the Kuzmenko route ("Kuzma", 5A, rock climbing) on Peak Baychechekay by Dima Pavlenko.
ELEvgenii LepikhinVideo guide to the Schwab route (5A) on Peak Baychechekhey by experienced mountaineer Dima Pavlenko.
Video guide for the Schwab route (5A, rock) on Peak Baychechekhey by Dima Pavlenko.
SSummitMateReport on the ascent of the team from the Ministry of Sports of the Republic of Tatarstan to the summit of *Baiychechek* 4516 m via a 5A category route.
To the judging panel of the high-altitude and technical class of the PFO Championship 2023 Report on the ascent to the summit of Baychechekhey 4516 m via the left edge of the central buttress of the western wall, 5A category of complexity (D. Pavlenko's route, 2010), 2nd passage, made by the team of the Ministry of Sports of the Republic of Tatarstan on August 10, 2023. Leader: Grishin Sergey Vasilyevich, CMS Participants: Kudryashov Valery Sergeyevich, CMS Ogorodnikov Roman Valeryevich, 1st sports category Coach: Kudryashov Valery Sergeyevich, CMS, 1st category I. Ascent Passport
SSummitMateSSummitMateReport on the first ascent of route 2A category of complexity to the peak Uchitel (4550 m) via the eastern ridge in the Kyrgyz Ala-Too range.
Report on the First Ascent of the Route to Peak Uchitel via the Eastern Ridge. Climbing Passport Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, Ala-Archa gorge. Peak Uchitel 4550 m. Presumed 2A category of difficulty, first ascent. Route character — ridge. Route height difference — 700 m. Route length — 1700 m. Section lengths: I — 1550 m, II — 150 m, Average steepness: main part of the route — 30°. Pitons left on the route: total — 0;
SSummitMateAscent to Pik Sкрытые (4650 m) from July 3 to 10, 1953, category 3A complexity, Evokokov route.
Route 6 Ascent to p. Skrylne from July 3 to 10, 1953 3A cat. sl. Evokokov, 72 4650 m | № | Fig. 1 | Fig. 2 | Fig. 3 | Fig. 4 | Fig. 5 | | ----- | ------------ | ------------ | ------------ | ------------ | ------------ | | 1 | R1 150 м 30′ | R2 150 м 30′ | R3 150 м 30′ | R4 150 м 30′ | R5 150 м 30′ | | 2 | R1 150 м 30′ | R2 150 м 30′ | R3 150 м 30′ | R4 150 м 30′ | R5 150 м 30′ | | 3 | R1 150 м 30′ | R2 150 м 30′ | R3 150 м 30′ | R4 150 м 30′ | R5 150 м 30′ | | 4 | R1 150 м 30′ | R2 150 м 30′ | R3 150 м 30′ | R4 150 м 30′ | R5 150 м 30′ | R. Jeumente
SSummitMateDescription of a challenging climbing route with ice and rock sections, featuring hazardous cornices and unstable rocks.
Brief description of the route by sections Sections R0–R2. Snow and ice slope. Simultaneous movement. Insurance through ice screws. Crossing bergschrunds via snow bridges. Sections R2–R4. Rocky gully and a series of walls. Rocks are destroyed, iced over. The most difficult section on the route. Insurance: pitons nuts In the upper part of the gully, behind a jendarme, there's a control cairn. Alternating movement. Sections R4–R5. Rocky ridge, very sharp. Loose rocks, everything is snowy, overhanging cornices! Insurance via rock outcrops. Alternating-simultaneous movement.
