ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Type of ascent — rock climbing.
2. Region of ascent — 5.3.А.
3. Peak Vilnius, 4120 m.
4. Difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics, length of sections: II, III, IV, V — 400 m, 30 m, 160 m, 120 m.
6. Pitons hammered: | | For belay | For standing pitons (ITOs) | | :------------------ | :-------- | :------------------------- |

Sports group of MGS DSO "SPARTAK" gathering Serebryakova V. 2nd sports category — leader Bashkirov V. CMS, Ginzburg V. CMS, Klimashin V.V. 1st sports category, Bychkov A. 2nd sports category, Ponomarenko B. 1st sports category, Sadovnikov V. 1st sports category, Leonov K. 1st sports category — representative of a/l Varzab.

— 2 — The foaming distribution follows this pattern:

• Nn-lp­ppp­purov
• Tu­tup­ppp­-lsr- li­s
• Aran­chso­v-Јi­lov Then count by (2) and (3). The section is not very long, 30–40 m, but steep. At the pass, all the participants of Катьцит and Перопутная started at 9:00. Then they moved along the gully, traversing the funnels of Перопутная and Медведна (4) and (5). The ascent to the peak Бпо­б — (6) is done via destroyed slopes with simultaneous belay. We reached the peak at 14:30. We started descending from the peak at 14:30. We descended to the ridge below the funnels of Бпо­б and Бо­две­дна. From this point on, we descended, roped together, along a gentle slope that descends to the river Бпо­б. Further, we followed the right bank of the river Бпо­б or a trail through a clearing with a rainforest. We returned to camp at 15:40. V N O L N

1. The ascent to the peak Бпо­б via the western ridge is a Category 2A route.
2. The height of the peak is approximately 440 m.

In the western part of the Zeravshan range, between the basins of the Sev-Charya and Ktut-Charya rivers, a relatively isolated massif rises - the so-called Seven Lakes. The upper parts of this mountain node reach a height of 5500 m. Peaks exceeding 5000 m:

• Chishtarg - 5487 m
• Bolshaya Ranza - 5415 m
• JKCDOP - 5208 m
• Energiya - 5105 m and others (up to 10 peaks in total). The Seven Lakes occupy the space between the Zeravshan and Ryesassky ranges. Large glaciation in this area is predominantly found on the northern slopes. South of the upper Bolshaya Ranza, in the upper reaches of the Penander-Charya river, at an altitude of 2238 m, lies the vast and very picturesque Lake Penander-Chul of dammed origin. This area is still little explored.

12 ASCENT PASS

1. Ascent class — TECHNICAL.
2. Ascent area: – 5.3. PAMIR-ALAI, Zeravshan Range, Malaya Ganza glacier valley.
3. Summit — BELY KLJUCH, 4900 m, via south-west face — FIRST ASCENT.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B cat. dif.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1100 m length of sections 5–6 cat. dif. — 877 m « — 6 cat. dif. — 127 m

I. Climbing category: combined technical 2. Climbing area: Fann Mountains 3. Белый Барс, 4505, via N. Ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category: 5A 5. Route characteristics: height difference 900 m, sections 5–6 cat. diff. 240 m 6. Pitons hammered: for belay 42, for artificial holds II, including 50 rock, 2 ice, 1 bolt, total 53. 7. Total climbing hours: 21 hours 8. Number of nights: 1, semi-reclining 9. Petrov Andrey Evgenievich — leader, 1st sports category, instructor Averyanov German Petrovich — Candidate for Master of Sports, instructor

SUMMIT: BELY BARS (4505 m) Via the southern ridge, 4A category of difficulty, rock Description of the first ascent made on July 27, 1967 by a group led by Davydenko V.N. (Chelyabinsk region, Miass) Description compiled by: Davydenko / leader Chelyabinsk Regional Alpine Federation 1967

1. Introduction

In the ridge located south of the peak Bolshaya Ganza, between the passes Omsk and Anzak, lies the peak Bely Bars (Lalangi Safet - the Tajik name, means "White Leopard"). The first ascent - according to information provided to us by the well-known expert on the Fann Mountains, Mr. Paganutsi N.V. (Karaganda) - was made via the southwestern short edge (route 3B category of difficulty, unclassified) by a group from Karaganda in 1962. Approaches to the Omsk pass from the northwest from the Arg river area and from the southeast from Lake Iskanderkul take 3-4 hours. The peak Bely Bars is clearly visible from the area of the peaks Saharnaya Golova, Kaltsit, and Krasnye Zori, and the group's path - from under the Omsk pass on the western side.

9. Ascent to the summit of "Palangi-Safed" (White Bars). (approx. 4A) (from Omsk Pass). The summit "Palangi-Safed" (White Bars) (4565 m) is located in the Fann Mountains in the southern spur of the summit Bolshaya Ganza to the east of the Arg river gorge. The peak is rocky, without snow cover, ice is found in crevices and chimneys facing north. The rocks are very destroyed, but have few cracks for hammering in rock pitons. In the cracks, wedges can be used for belaying. No notes were found at the summit. The approach to the summit is from Lake Iskanderkul up the Sarytog River, then along the Arg River and then up the Anzak River and its right tributary (along the way) to the Omsk Pass. By the second half of summer, both these rivers (Anzak and its tributary) become very shallow and even get lost among the stones. It is better to spend the night under the pass, where there is water, firewood, and no wind. The ascent begins to the north of the Omsk Pass, at the beginning of the ridge. First, we go along a steep internal angle 20 m long and exit to a large site. Along the site, we approach the rocks and, turning right, along a ledge we approach a cleft. We ascend the cleft to a protruding stone, convenient for belaying. From the stone, right and up 20 m along a wide crack, we exit to the second site. On it, a control cairn was left. To the right of the site are cliffs. Further up 20 m along a steep couloir, and then 40 m up the rocks of medium difficulty. Then left and 35 m along an inclined oblique fissure. Ahead is the first gendarme (Path from the large site to gendarme No. 1 in the photo). We ascended the gendarme along an inclined shelf and after a 30-meter descent from it along a sharp ridge, we reached a saddle. Behind it is the second gendarme. The second gendarme is bypassed on the right and along slabs with a steepness of 60° we exit to gendarme No. 3, which is bypassed on the left along heavily destroyed rocks.

Area: Pamir, Fann Mountains. Route: traverse of p. Bezymyannyj — p. Vuanlo (category 3B difficulty) — first ascent. Climbing date: from July 31 to August 1, 1973.

Route Description

The approach to the peaks goes along the left side of the Akhbasay river to the place where the two rivers merge. P. Bezymyannyj is clearly visible from the overnight location, to the right is Sakharnaya Golova. The ascent to p. Bezymyannyj begins along the eastern ridge. The beginning of the route goes through rocks of medium difficulty. We pass 6 ropes, a large gendarme appears, which must be bypassed on the right. After bypassing the gendarme, you need to descend 10 m down. The next gendarme is passed along the ridge. The path to the peak is clearly visible. Sequentially, you need to pass 3 gendarmes:

• 1st — bypassed on the left;
• 2nd and 3rd — passed head-on. Before the summit, there is a steep climb, which must be passed very carefully: many loose rocks; for insurance, you need to drive in pitons. From the north, the summit is snowy. We didn't find a cairn on the summit, so we built our own and left a note. Next is the traverse to Vuanlo peak (4239 m).

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area, its height, ascent route — Mt. YUBILEYNAYA, 3600 m, via the northern ridge.
3. Proposed difficulty category — 1B.
4. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m, total route length — 900 m, average steepness — 35°.
5. Pitons hammered in: for belaying — 4 pcs.
6. Number of climbing hours — 6 hours.
7. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: none.