Northern Altai
Route Description: СВ склону
SSummitMateDescription of the route to the summit of Sone via the north-eastern buttress, 4A grade, 4060 m, climbed in 2018.
Sone KNCC 4AAC (CA reg. concay 1300, 1780 m, 45°, 2cu, 45 A, 7.2 ac. o. exit) List:
- A. Hardecuus
- A. Nebusucuk
- A. Kovescuus
- A. Zeperand
- A. Utrance 2018–86 г. 8.50 mst KNCC 4060 m
Route Description: ЮВ гребню
SSummitMateClimbing Mount Everest via the South Col: a description of the challenging route, key stages, and essential skills required for a successful ascent by climbers.
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Route Description: с пер. Кара-Оюк
SSummitMateA description of the route to the top of Kara-Urok in Gorny Altai, including information on the difficulty and specifics of the ascent.
8. Kara — a lesson
Route Description: с пер. Кара-Оюк
SSummitMateDescription of the 1B category complexity route to the Kara-Oshk summit via the Kara-Oshk pass in the Katunsky ridge of Altai.
v. Kara-Oyuk from p. Kara-Oyuk Mokhova V. M. Altai 1.
Passport
- Rock category.
- Altai, Katunsky ridge.
- Assumed 1B category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Height difference 400 m, length 1500 m.
- 7.5 hours of walking time from the camp under v. Boris.
- Mokhova V. M. 1st sports category
Route Description: СЗ стене
SSummitMateAscent of Delaunay Peak (4260 m) via the NW wall, new route, category 6B, first ascent made in May 2003.
Climbing Passport
- Technical category.
- Altai, Katunsky ridge, Ak-Kem gorge.
- Delaunay Peak. Central part of the Northwest Wall. 4260 m.
- Route 6B cat. diff. (approximately). First ascent of the route.
- Height difference of the route: 1110 m (bergschrund 3150 - summit 4260). Route length about 1600 m.
- Length of the central part 1100 m (height difference about 800).
- Length of sections 5: 445 m.
Route Description: СЗ стене
SSummitMateSecond ascent of Delaunay Peak via the Northwest Wall by a team from the Gorno-Altaisk Mountain Rescue Service of the Russian Emergencies Ministry; the route is mixed with difficulties up to 85-90°.
Russian Alpinism Championship
Ice and Snow Ascent Class
Report
On the second ascent to the peak Delone via the left part of the Northwest wall by the team of the Emergency Response Team (ERT) of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of the Russian Federation, Gorno-Altaysk. Team Leader: Slobodchikov I.V. — 1st sports category Coach: Yakubovsky V.I. — 1st sports category Participants:
- Slobodchikov Igor Vladimirovich, 1st sports category, address: 659700, Altai Republic, Gorno-Altaysk, Kommunisticheskij Ave., 160, apt. 33.
- Yakubovsky Valeriy Ivanovich, 1st sports category, address: 659700, Altai Republic, Gorno-Altaysk, Altayskaya st., 26, apt. 2
Passport
Route Description: СЗ стене
SSummitMate### Description of the First Ascent to the Delone Peak via the North Face in Altai during the 14th Russian Mountaineering Championship in 1996.
Ascent Profile
- Class: ice and snow
- Region: Altai, Akkem gorge
- Peak: Delaunay, left part of the NW side
- Proposed: 5B category of difficulty, first ascent
- Height difference: 1100 m. Length: 1600 m to the Delaunay–Belukha ridge. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty: 630 m, 6th category: 55 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 59°.
- Pitons driven:
- rock pitons — 7
- chocks — 38
- ice screws — 52
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of the north wall of Delono peak in Altai by the rescue team of EMERCOM of Russia from Gorno-Altaysk, complexity category 5A.
RUSSIAN ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP ICE AND SNOW CLIMBING CLASS.
Report
On the first ascent to the Delaunay peak via the North face
by the team of PSS EMERCOM RF from Gorno-Altaysk.
1996
Slobodchikov Igor Vladimirovich, 1st sports category, address: 659700, Altai Republic, Gorno-Altaysk, Kommunistichesky ave., 160, apt. 33.
Yakubovsky Valery Ivanovich, 1st sports category, address: 659700, Altai Republic, Gorno-Altaysk, Altayskaya str., 26, apt. 2.
Passport
Route Description: СЗ кф.
SSummitMateAscent to the Delaunay Peak (4260 m) via NW spur, grade 5A, height difference 1260 m, 16 hours of climbing time.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Ascent class — technical.
- Ascent area, ridge: Altai, Katunskie Belki ridge.
- Peak, its height, ascent route, route type: p. Delone 4260 m, NW buttress, combined.
- Proposed category of difficulty: 5A cat. diff.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 1260 m, length of 5th category difficulty sections — 575 m, average steepness — 55°.
- Pitons hammered: rock and chockstones — 35, ice screws — 56.
- Number of climbing hours: 16 hours.
- Number of nights and their characteristics: one on the descent.
- Full name of the leader, participants, their qualification:
Route Description: СВ склону
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent to the top of Delone via the North-Eastern slope (4B category of difficulty) by a team from Novosibirsk on August 15, 2019.
Report
ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT DELONE B. VIA THE NE SLOPE, CATEGORY 4B ROUTE BY THE TEAM FROM NOVOSIBIRSK ON AUGUST 15, 2019.
I. Ascent Passport
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader | Alexey I. Cherdantsev, 1st sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants | Maxim I. Luchko, 2nd sports rank |