v. Kara-Oyuk from p. Kara-Oyuk

Mokhova V. M. Altai

Passport

1. Rock category.
2. Altai, Katunsky ridge.
3. Assumed 1B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Height difference 400 m, length 1500 m.
5. 7.5 hours of walking time from the camp under v. Boris.
6. Mokhova V. M. 1st sports category Belyaev P. A. 3rd sports category Vinnikov K. E. 1st sports category Egorov L. M. 3rd sports category Katonin V. V. 2nd sports category
7. Coach Drakin A. V., CMS, 1st category No. 3450.
8. Departure and return on July 14, 1994.
9. The event was organized by the Altai Regional Sports Committee.

Approach Description

From the base camp located on Akkem Lake, move along the lake to the point where the Akkem River flows into the lake (40–50 minutes). The river is forded with insurance. After crossing, move along the trail to the Akkem Glacier (the trail is often lost on the large talus). Climb onto the glacier tongue from the left along the lateral moraine. Then go along the glacier tongue along the slopes of v. Boris to the beginning of the R0–R3 ridge. The moraine rampart located on the left separates a convenient bivouac meadow with a small lake from the glacier. The descent to the meadow is along the large talus covered with lichen, very slippery in the rain.

Travel time from the camp to the meadow: 3–3.5 hours.

v. Kara-Oyuk from p. Kara-Oyuk

Bivouac

From the base camp located under v. Boris, move towards p. Druzhba between v. Blagoeva and v. Titova. First, go along the moraine, which is a medium and large talus, then along the glacier under the pass. The exit to the pass is in cats, cross the bergschrund under the pass using snow bridges (2 hours 30 minutes).

From the pass, move towards p. Kara-Oyuk between v. Blagoeva and v. Kara-Oyuk. Go:

• first along the ridge of v. Blagoeva,
• then traverse under the slopes of v. Blagoeva along the medium talus to p. Kara-Oyuk (30 minutes).

From the pass, ascend to the ridge of p. Kara-Oyuk. The ascent is along the medium talus (1 hour). Further:

• a gentle ascent along the destroyed rocky ridge,
• which turns into a narrow snowy ridge before the summit (30 minutes).

Descent is via the ascent route (3 hours).